Need help with my guitar...?

Contrary to some of the other answers, it is NOT a good idea to file the string nut. The nut is responsible only for the action at the first fret (when you push down a string beyond the 1st fret the nut does nothing).

I would recommend taking it to a shop, but will outline the steps if you choose to try it yourself...

1. Hold a string down at the 1st and last fret. Look at the space between the fret and string. If there is more than a credit card thickness between the string and fret at the greatest distance, then the truss rod needs adjustment. More on this later.

2. If the neck checks out OK, then you can use a small allen wrench to lower the strings at the bridge. There are 2 tiny screws on top of each saddle that you can adjust about 1/2 turn each at a time until action is good. You'll need to do this with each string. NOTE! If you have a whammy bar you will need to make sure that there is quite a lot of tension on the spring in the back of the guitar BEFORE you do this.

3. If the saddles are as low as they can go, then you will need to loosen the strings and remove the neck. Place a piece of plastic credit card (or cut up pick) about 1/8" wide and 1 1/2" long at the base of the neck pocket and bolt the neck on again. You might even find that there is already a shim there. Leave it alone and add yours. Readjust the saddles as #2 above.

4. The truss rod should never be adjusted for overall action, but only to correct excessive neck bow. Ultimately, when checking the neck as described in #1, you should have about 1/64" to 1/32" where the distance between string and fret is the greatest. This provides a very slight bow in the neck called "relief". No guitar neck should be straight as an arrow. Depending on the model of "Strat" copy you have, the truss rod is accessed either at the heel using a big screwdriver (you will probably have to remove the neck for this) or at the headstock with an allen wrench. Turn the screw CLOCKWISE NO MORE than 1/2 turn. My guess is that there is no tension on the truss rod so you can probably get away with adding ONE MORE 1/2 TURN after you feel resistance.

WORDS OF WARNING- If you must adjust the truss rod there is the possibility of breaking it. If you are tightening it and it suddenly becomes loose, it's time for a new neck (replacing a truss rod will exceed the value of your guitar). Don't overtighten your neck bolts if you have to remove the neck or you may strip them out. Use the proper tools...a nice big flat screwdriver (for the truss rod), a nice big phillips screwdriver (to remove the neck), and correctly sized allen wrenches.

Put the thing back together if you have to, string it up, tune it up, readjust the bridge, and off you go!

I recommend taking it to a guitar shop and having it altered, because it sounds like the truss rod needs to be adjusted. The truss rod needs to be tightened so that the strings will be closer to the fretboard. This happens from time to time where the neck needs to be adjusted due to humidity and the tension experienced on it when the guitar is played. It's something that you could, in theory, do yourself but may destroy your guitar if you don't know what you are doing.

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Lowering the bridge, filing the nut, or both may work.

Shimming the neck angle at the Body may also work.

Depends weather the height gap is constant or higher in the middle.

A book on Luthier's or Guitar Repair at the Library will help you Immensely.

Adjust the height and tension on the bridge saddles with a small philips screwdriver. It may be harder if it's not a Fender or Squire, but you just have to do it in smaller increments. Make sure the neck isn't warped or you may have to also adjust the truss rod to avoid string buzz.

I'm sure it's related to the Machinehead my friend