car polish for highly oxidized paint?

It sounds like a LOT of work using compounds. I'm no expert but I remember some years ago an body shop guy told me that products that clean the oxidized paint the easiest have a higher content of kerosene. Now it may not be called that in the ingredients, if they're even listed. I'd get a rag of kerosene and see if it dissolves the glaze. USE OUTDOORS (VENTILATION) AND DON'T SMOKE!! AND MAKE SURE YOUR FRIENDS DON'T EITHER!!

Oxidized Paint On Car

Car Paint Oxidation

the best type of compounds to use is a brand of RUBBING COMPOUND made by TURTLE WAX, this compound is used to remove oxidation before you apply wax. Start in a small section about 1-2 feet in width and apply in circular motion, then with a clean dry cloth remove and proceed to another section. after you do your whole hood take the TURTLE WAX CAR WASH and clean the whole hood then dry thoroughly then apply TURTLE WAX and apply that in circular motion then wipe off with clean dry cloth. You will have a great shine with no oxidation at all. Repeat this every month and it will keep the oxidation away.

This Site Might Help You.

RE:

car polish for highly oxidized paint?

how to get rid of highly oxidized paint on the hood of my 1969 dodge charger. the paint is ruff to the touch. any ideas? i dont want to have to pay for a new paint job.

Cleaning your paint does not mean washing your car, it means removing oxidation and contaminants, adding emollient oils back into the paint and smoothing out the surface of the paint. There are several products on the market that will accomplish one, two or all three of these functions. In fact, there are so many products by so many names, that the correct choice may be confusing. Before we start, let's define some broad categories of products.

CLEANER: A cleaning agent may be either friction or chemical. A friction cleaner is usually either a silicate or clay particulate. If you examine your paint through a microscope, it would look like a mountain range with peaks and valleys. The friction or abrasive (don't get nervous at the word abrasive) type cleaner will clip the tops of these mountains off and help fill in the valleys, to approach the optimum smooth plane that offers the greatest depth of shine. Friction cleaners are usually described as fine, medium or heavy cut. When in doubt, use the least aggressive product. A chemical cleaner will usually strip equal amounts of hill and dale and thus not help smooth the paint. A cleaner should also remove old wax and other contaminants in the paint. Chemical type cleaners are usually more effective in removing the remains of 100 M.P.H. bugs, stains, tree sap and tars. Avoid silicone-based products as they are not beneficial to paint and can cause problems down the road. Ask any professional car painter their thoughts on silicone products, and you will usually get a 30-minute tirade.

GLAZE: A glaze usually denotes a superfine friction type of cleaning agent, usually with essential emollients and lubricating oils and may even contain some mild chemical cleaners. Glazes will usually remove mild swirl marks, scratches, refresh the paint with oils and smooth out the finish.

POLISH: A polish is normally a non-abrasive product based on a nutrient oil matrix and may or may not have a chemical cleaner as part of the package. Most polishes use fillers to help cover swirl marks.

COMPOUND: A compound is the "coarse sandpaper" of the paint-cleaning world. This should be used only if the paint is in serious trouble and all else has failed. If you are one step away from 1-800-NEW-PAINT, then you may consider a compound.

CLAY: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove over spray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is a learned skill. Use too little lubricant, or get contaminants in the clay, and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme care. I do not recommend this product as a general paint cleaner. You literally grind off a layer of paint. Should be used as was intended, to remove paint over spray.

CLEANER/WAX: A combination, one-step chemical cleaner and a wax. I am not a fan of these types of products, as they are required to perform two very diverse functions simultaneously. A cleaner should remove old wax, so how does it simultaneously apply a coat of new wax? You may wish to use this type of product only in emergency situations or on your Yugo.

WAX: There are two broad categories of wax, organic and polymer based. The organic waxes may be derived from plants such as Carnauba, or varmints, such as bee's wax or some of the K-Mart specials contain paraffin refined from dead dinosaurs. The polymer-based waxes are usually collected from specially trained robotic bees that gather the polymer nectar from plastic flowers (or it may be made in chemical factories).

try using some meguiars #6 cleaner wax, its a very fine grit wax that you can buff off and test if the paint will hold up without putting something very coarse on and risking burning thru the paint. Im sure the original paint is VERY thin at this date.

You need to use rubbing compound and a lot of rubbing. Good Luck Awesome Car!!

try using a clay bar before applying any wax

firstly rubbing compound then t cut then wax