What part is needed for a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue when AC doesnt blow out of vents?

Oh gosh...here goes nothing...

Before you do anything, check out this link to help you better understand your vehicle's air conditioning system. Then when you go to a mechanic you will have some sort of idea what they are talking about...and it will help keep you from getting ripped off.

http://www.carcare.org/Climate_Control/ac_overview...

There could be a number of things wrong with your system, so let's start with the most common...

1. You could have a leak in your system. There could be a loose connection or leaking seal or o-ring. Your high pressure or low pressure valve might also be leaking. If it is something like this, it shouldn't cost too much to replace. Valves and o-rings should only cost a few dollars.

If it isn't one of the above things leaking, there could be something else...you could have a leak in your evaporator core, condenser, or accumulator/dryer. This is a more expensive repair and I am guessing that the shop you took it too is giving you an estimate of $700 for one of these parts.

2. Your compressor might need to be replaced. If a/c doesn't blow from the vents, then it won't blow when you have the defrost on. Air will blow, but it will not be conditioned air. Try this...

Locate your a/c compressor...open your hood and find the belt. On an Oldsmobile the a/c compressor should be on the bottom towards the front of the vehicle. (While facing the front of the car, it should be on the left hand side, towards the front of the engine, near the bottom.) Once you locate it, turn on the car and set the controls to max cooling and turn the fan on high. Then go back to the front of the car and look at the compressor. If the inside of it is turning, then chances are that you will not need a new compressor. If it is not turning then you might need a new one...or you might be lucky and just get away with a re-charge of refrigerant. If there is no refrigerant in the system, the compressor will not cycle on because your car is smart enough to prevent itself from damaging the a/c components.

Q: How do I know if my compressor is working?

A: If the compressor is engaging, the center of the compressor clutch will turn with the outer pulley. If the pulley does not turn and there is a loud squeal, this usually indicates a locked up compressor. The compressor and drier will need to be replaced.

Typical Automotive A/C system...

http://www.efproducts.com/faqs.php?faq_id=41&categ...

Here are some prices for the a/c components for your '98 Olds...

Compressor...$400.00 + $75-100 core charge (you might have to pay the core charge, you might not...depends where you get the compressor from)

Evaporator Core...$250.00

Condenser...$200.00

Accumulator/dryer...$25-50

Labor...$200-500 depending on where you take it, how long they have to work on it, and what needs to be replaced. To replace the compressor on that vehicle will be a pain in the butt for the mechanic...which means it will take more time...and mechanics get paid by the hour. Dealerships might charge $100+ per hour for labor, and some local shops might charge $50-75 per hour.

NOTE:

If you have to replace your compressor, DO NOT buy a remanufactured one. Reman ones usually last about 1 year. Spend a few more bucks and buy a new one. Usually the new ones only cost $40-70 more than the reman one.

Also, you should take it somewhere else to get a second opinion. You can't always tell what is wrong with the system by hooking your car up to the computer. If there is a leak in the system the computer won't be able to tell you what part is leaking. I have an '89 Riviera. Took it to the dealership and they said the condenser was leaking. They replaced it and the a/c still didn't work. Spent lots of money only to find out that it is the evaporator core...which cost me $1000 to replace! But I stuck about $1500+ into the a/c system, so what's another grand! lol.

There should be a/c shops all around the town you live in. Take it there and see what those guys have to say. A second opinion never hurts. Good luck and hopefully it won't be something too costly to repair.

Oh yeah, and a loose vacuum line will not cause your a/c to blow warm. And a vacuum line won't cost $700 to fix! Your car also does not use a vacuum to determine what vents the air blows from. (older GM's used to, but not a newer '98 Olds) That is all electronically controlled by your BCM or in other words one of the computers in your car.

And if the shop said that they would have to go into the dash to replace something what they probably meant was that in the engine compartment, they will have to take covers, shields, and shrowds off to get at your evaporator core. That is located in the dash, on the engine side and is a pain in the butt to get at.

***Woah, unless you are saying that when you turn on the a/c nothing at all comes out of the vents...in that case it is your blower motor...that will cost you $100 plus labor. Does anything blow out when you have it on vent mode? If stuff comes out, then it is not the blower motor...its your a/c system.

I wanna be your mechanic, lol. $700!!! ouch that has to hurt.

Listen when you troubleshoot something you always start with the simplest and practical thing first.

On most vehicles vacuum controls the air flow. On your vehicle that be or may not be. There could be a vacuum leak under the hood or dash that is the problem.

Another could be the control panel that selects the air flow. Chances are you have a vacuum leak. I've seen this alot, so don't let them charge you that kind of money. You want it fixed, not a new engine.

I will tell you it's time consuming to find the leak (if that's your problem), just a simple observation could go along way.

defrost is the default mode . most likely it`s your control when you turn it from ac to heat and etc. It probably has a vacum leak or the vacum source to it isn`t there. Gms`s vents are controlled by vacum and the vacum metering is controlled heater ,ac, defrost selector knob..first thing to do is listen for a sucking noise in the car. then see if you can find a disconnected hose or broken hose under the hood. The hose you are looking for goes thru the firewall and into the car. If the selector metering disk is leaking internally you will not hear it. Sometimes by pressing on it you can determine if it is bypassing internally Junk yard part and sweet talk to the boyfriend. They are trying to rip you off big time. I have taken the disk apart applied vaseline and repreloaded the disk and it work forever. No money just about 1 hour time

1998 Intrigue

You should take it to a different shop for a second opinion. It could be a simple vacuum leak causing the problem. The air conditioning uses vacuum to select which vents the air is coming out of. If there is a vacuum leak it will just come out of the dash and floor vents.

you have a undesirable headlight change on your steerage column, attempt pulling back on the change handle, a number of those new autos you ought to push the lever forward for remarkable lights fixtures and pull it back in direction of you for the dim lights fixtures.

control box