What's the best size/shape pleats for a crinoline?

I am making a short net 80's style crinoline for a work function. I have 2 colors and weights of netting and would like to make several layers without huge buildup of stitches since that part will be at my hips and lord knows I don't need any extra padding there! I'd really like to layer it all together and pleat it all at once. I'm working on limited time and average sewing skill. I really just need to know what the best width and shape of pleat will work best!