I park on the street and have hard water stains on the right side of my 2003 saab. How do I remove em?

How to Remove Rust from a Car

There are many reasons for a car to develop rust spots. The main reason is when the paint is chipped or scratched through the primer coat, perhaps by stones on the road or a minor car accident, and the metal underneath is exposed to moisture and air, which causes the metal to oxidize. A rust spot increases and spreads with time, especially with each rain or snow storm. Whether you plan on keeping it or selling it, your car will look cleaner without the rust. Others judge you by your own appearance, by your speech, and by the car you drive, so take the time to remove the rust spots and give the car a painting before the entire car ends up covered in rust.

[edit] Steps

1. Take safety precautions. Wear gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask.(There may be some extreme situations that you may need a respirator.)There will be fine rust and paint dust as well as paint spray everywhere; you don't want it in your eyes or lungs.

2. Cover up any parts of the car that you don't want to get dusty. Use a tarp sealed with painter's tape to define your work area. Roll up your windows. The paint dust is extremely fine and will get everywhere.

3. Remove the paint around the rust with a grinder. Use a sanding wheel (150 grit) to take off both the primer and paint, as well as any light rust that hasn't fused with the metal, and level the surface between the painted surface and the unpainted area. Feel with your fingers for a smooth surface.

4.

Switch to a metal grinding wheel for removing the thick rust and getting into any pits. When using the wheel, go slowly, because these can do a lot of damage. Once this is done apply rust removing acid to the area to remove the microscopic particles of rust that remain. Phosphoric acid is best and can be bought at most auto parts stores. If you want, use a hole spot filler or a body filler like Bondo to even out some of the dents, and fill the space where the paint is gone. Finish off by sanding by hand (120 grit sandpaper) to get a nice smooth metal surface.

5. Purchase primer that is ideal for painting on bare metal and find an auto spray that matches the color of your car. Both of these supplies can be found at an auto supply store.

6. Prepare the spot for priming. Follow the instructions for your primer. Typically, what you will need to do is:

* Wipe the area with mineral spirits or paint thinner.

*

Tape newspaper on all surrounding areas within three feet

7.

Spray thin coats of primer evenly. Spray three coats of primer, waiting a few minutes between coats. Allow to dry over night (at least 12 hours).

8. Sand with 400 grit wet sandpaper. This abrasive is specifically made for sanding between paint coats to smooth the surface and degloss, so the paint bonds. Wipe clean.

9.

Spray a thin coat of paint so as not to let the paint run or sag. Use as many coats of paint over the primer as you need in order to achieve a nice color and finish. Let it set at least 24 hours before pulling off the tape.

10.

Buff the edges of the new paint so that it blends with the old paint. If necessary, apply a clear coat to match of the finish on the rest of the car.

11.

Allow the paint to cure for 48 hours, wash and Polish the car. Never wax fresh paint within 30 days of painting!

[edit] Tips

*

If the rust spots are on or around the fender, it may be useful to jack the car safely with a chock behind one of the wheels. Pull off the wheel and unscrew the plastic protecting the wheel well. Doing so will give you a chance to pound out any dents from the inside, and will also allow more room for grinding and painting.

*

Alternative to this lengthy process is Rust converters, those are primers designed to be applied directly to a rusty surface. Unlike the standard scrape, prime, and paint regime, the user does not have to bring the surface down to bare metal. There are two primary components in a rust converter: a tannin and an organic polymer. The organic polymer provides a protective primer layer.The tannin reacts with the iron oxide, converting it to iron tannate, a stable blue/black corrosion product. You can find a can of that in Walmart for $3 or so.

* If the car has significant rust that covers a large area of the body, you may want to leave it to the professionals.

Warnings

* Propellants have explosive properties, so do not allow any sparks or flames, including lit cigarettes, near the work area during the entire rust removal process.

* Wear gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask to prevent rust and paint dust from irritating or injuring you.

* If using phosphoric acid BE SURE TO READ AND FOLLOW instructions on the product packaging

I had/have the same problem and found a product called Triple M Water Spot Remover. I had over 3 years of hard water spots that wouldn't come off. I tried dozens of products from auto to boat stuff and none of it worked.

Triple M worked so easy, nothing, but put it on, and wash it off. I use it every couple of months as well as investing in a good clay bar. The finsh is smooth as glass when I'm done. Follow directions and you'll be very happy. I bought a gallon of it, but it can be had in lesser quantities.

Here's where I get it:

Martin Distributors Auto Wax & Polish, Inc

6924 Canby Avenue, Suite 109

Reseda, CA 91335

(818) 344-2431

Mix a little bit of vinegar with water. This should take of those spots and it won't hurt your paint job. Than give you car a good wax job.

use some rubbing compound then wash and wax your car