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vincebeknown
vincebeknown asked in Cars & TransportationMaintenance & Repairs · 1 decade ago

Problems with starting my 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo?

When I turn my key, all I get is the buzz noise(fuel pump) and clicks. The power is still good because the wiper still moves fast and my music bumps. I've gotten a new starter and starter relay.

To troubleshoot it...I haved check the fuses, fuselink, and even jumpstart it but still doesn't start.

But when I "push start" the car it.....runs. Park it....Turn the car off...and guess what????....It doesn't start...Please help me out.

Update:

When I turn my key, all I get is the buzz noise(fuel pump) and clicks. The power is still good because the wiper still moves fast and my music bumps. I've gotten a new starter and starter relay.

To troubleshoot it...I haved check the fuses, fuselink, and even jumpstart it but still doesn't start.

But when I "push start" the car it.....runs. Park it....Turn the car off...and guess what????....It doesn't start...Please help me out.

3 Answers

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  • Jason S.
    1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    lol.. I'm so sorry to hear that you have the exact same problem as me.. and it just happened to me on the same day as yours too.

    http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=As1XP...

    I'm going to carpool to school tomorrow and I'm gonna bring it to a mechanic on Saturday. I'll let you know what happens and makes some suggestions for you.

    My primary guess is a fuel delivery issue since your battery sounds good and spark plugs and distributors dont really fail completely.

    *update 6/14/08* It was the ignition coil, of all things!! I have no idea why too. The mechanic I went to said these things happened cuz electronic components can fail without warning or symptoms. I paid $50 diagnostic and another $175 to replace something that took them under an hour. I was unfortunate to be 50 miles from home so I had to fork another $65 to tow to a auto shop cuz the car wouldn't start at all. If you are at home, you can save money and go to Autozone's Vehicle Repair Guide to look up how to test if your ignition coil is bad.

    Here's a sample of what the site will show:

    TESTING

    Primary Resistance

    See Figures 1, 2 and 3

    This test requires the use of an ohmmeter. When using this tool, make sure the scale is set properly for the range of resistance you expect to encounter during the test. Always perform these tests with the ignition OFF.

    Label and disconnect the spark plug wire leading to the ignition coil. On all models except the 4A-GE engine, remove the distributor cap, rotor and dust cover. If equipped, disconnect the distributor wiring.

    Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the positive (+) and the negative (-) terminals on the coil. The resistance COLD should be:

    1988-91 4A-GE engine: 0.4-0.5 ohms

    1988-89 4A-F engine: 1.3-1.5 ohms

    1988-92 4A-FE engine: 1.25-1.56 ohms

    1992-95 4A-FE engine: 1.11-1.75 ohms

    1996-97 4A-FE engine: 0.36-0.55 ohms

    1993-94 7A-FE engine: 1.11-1.75 ohms

    1995-97 7A-FE engine: 0.36-0.55 ohms

    If the resistance is not within specification, the coil will require replacement.

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    put the car on ebay before it blows up

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    Your battery is toast.

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