What do you do to make your car run better?

There are alot of good answers in this thread. It comes down to a few points:

Maintenance:

1. Change your oil everything 3000 +/- miles. Don't worry about expensive synthetics (unless you want to go longer intervals.) For most cars the added cost doesn't justify any negligible power gains that may come from a full synthetic.

2. Change your air filter. Just check on it every 15-20k miles and make sure it looks clean. A K&N is a wise investment because you can clean and reuse them. Buy one only for this reason. Any power gains will be negligible from a Seat Of The Pants standpoint. Be careful not to oil them up too much as this oil may cause your Mass Airflow Sensor to throw a code or under perform.

3. Rotate your tires. Not only does this help them wear evenly, but it often allows your mechanic to spot problems early (worn struts, brake issues, etc.) Many oil change/tire change places offer free or discounted tire rotations to regular customers.

4. Deal with problems as they come up. Prolonging repairs usually leads to more expenses and collateral damage. If you plan on keeping the car, put the money into it when it needs it. It's really that simple.

Efficiency:

1. Keep your tires inflated to proper factory specs. This will ensure that you're getting proper gas mileage. Your tires will also wear properly.

2. Don't accelerate too hard from lights. It is the easiest way to waste gas. Also, learn a little bit about the physics of momentum and inertia. You don't need to be a physicist to do this, just feel the car out. I'm appalled at the people who stand on their brakes up a hill and then accelerate downhill. If you know the lay of the land, use it to your advantage. Truckers will often move to the left lanes of highways so that they can accelerate briskly downhill, only to shift over to the right lanes as their momentum dies as they climb the hill on the other side. Whenever safe and possible, use momentum to help you climb hills and save gas.

Also, consider inertia. Your car will want to continue straight into turns. Properly anticipating this will allow you to brake in advance and then accelerate THROUGH the turn. Most people accelerate INTO the turn, stand on their brakes, and then have to accelerate OUT OF the turn. This is inefficient, unsafe, and harsh on your brakes, suspension, tires, and wallet.

If you've got a manual transmission, downshift to shave speed. There are the people who say "brakes are cheaper than clutches." These people don't understand cars. As long as you're downshifting at the proper speed for that particular gear, your clutch and transmission will be fine. You'll replace brakes 3x over if you rely solely on your brakes to bring you to a halt. As auto transmissions get more and more sophisticated they're getting better and better at learning when to downshift.

Finally, don't get suckered into buying fuel additives, octane boosters, Tornados, etc. None of that stuff works. If you need high octane, buy race gas. If you want efficiency, follow the tried and true steps. I've seen the "Tornado" actually cost hp on a dyno, and offer no efficiency gains to boot. People can say "Well I have it and I think it works." Blah blah blah. I've see the data and on more than one occasion I've seen power losses with these devices. At best it will be a wash and you'll be out $xx.xx. The dyno never lies.

Good luck and thanks for making a point to drive the best you can!

1

Check all the levels of fluids when possible, then again I always get an oil change when the car indicates it to me, so the levels are always correct. I only take my car to places I've read reviews about and know that the service is legit and nothing is forgotten. Although I drive a minivan, I've always used Silver or mid-grade gasoline and while I don't always go to the big brand gas stations I make sure the octane level is to my satisfaction. Otherwise I'll drive further looking for good octane. I don't do this every time, but sometimes I'll allow my car a minute or two to sit just after starting the car. I never run the car too hard and if I travel cross country I'll take a few stops to allow the car to cool. (Not sure if that's necessary) Once every 6 months have the tires rotated and checked. I've got a Honda and I'll tell you over the last 20 years with them I've spent thousands of dollars less money on Honda maintenance then on my Chevy cars.

Well, it appears most of the answerer's have no idea what you've asked.

I am a perfectionist, and at the cost of todays modern vehicles, that isn't such a bad thing. I do most, if not all, of the maintenance on my, and my wifes' cars. I change the oil at 3000 miles ritually because we live in the city and it is a lot of stop and go traffic. At the same time as the oil change, I rotate the tires, check pressures, top off fluids and do a detailed inspection of the car. That detailed inspection includes physically looking at the condition of the brakes, safety features, head and tail lights. I also keep accurate records of the time and mileage of filter, spark plug and oil changes. I use high quality products, oils, fluids and filters and have never had a vehicle go less than 200K mileage before being sold or traded in.

I also keep track of gas mileage between fill-ups. This provides an early indication of any problems that are beginning to show early.

As an example, my wifes' car is a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage with 140K mileage and she is still getting over 30 MPG in the city!

I hope my answer is adequate for the question you asked.

I always check the tire pressure, add more if needed. Check all the levels of fluids when possible, then again I always get an oil change when the car indicates it to me, so the levels are always correct. I only take my car to places I've read reviews about and know that the service is legit and nothing is forgotten. Although I drive a minivan, I've always used Silver or mid-grade gasoline and while I don't always go to the big brand gas stations I make sure the octane level is to my satisfaction. Otherwise I'll drive further looking for good octane. I don't do this every time, but sometimes I'll allow my car a minute or two to sit just after starting the car. I never run the car too hard and if I travel cross country I'll take a few stops to allow the car to cool. (Not sure if that's necessary) Once every 6 months have the tires rotated and checked. I've got a Honda and I'll tell you over the last 20 years with them I've spent thousands of dollars less money on Honda maintenance then on my Chevy cars.

I always get an oil change when the car indicates it to me, so the levels are always correct. I only take my car to places I've read reviews about and know that the service is legit and nothing is forgotten. Although I drive a minivan, I've always used Silver or mid-grade gasoline and while I don't always go to the big brand gas stations I make sure the octane level is to my satisfaction. Otherwise I'll drive further looking for good octane. I don't do this every time, but sometimes I'll allow my car a minute or two to sit just after starting the car. I never run the car too hard and if I travel cross country I'll take a few stops to allow the car to cool. (Not sure if that's necessary) Once every 6 months have the tires rotated and checked. I've got a Honda and I'll tell you over the last 20 years with them I've spent thousands of dollars less money on Honda maintenance then on my Chevy cars.

Proper tire pressure is key as well as rotation of tires. The internal gears and cogs work best for longer periods of time on an even chassis. Flush fluids and replace with equivalent of better fluids every 30,000 miles. This approach slows wear and tear. Use a degreaser or spray "Simply Green" on the radiator coils. This will reduce crud and maintain the optimal cooling effect desired from the radiator, same with the engine. When tires are being rotated every 5-7k miles, I inspect under the car to see if any seals have been broken, grease leaks around the bearings, dents or dings from rough road surfaces and or anything unusual presenting potential problems. I run my car through a touchless car was to take care of the undercarriage to rid it from an accumulation of salt and road dirt over the months or season. I think a garaged car is an overall healthier car, it helps preserve the overall car. Lastly, I read all that I can about the car, everything that has ever been written if I can find it. I try to know the car, like one should know the body. I may not know how to fix it, but I can make an educated guess on what is wrong and talk intelligently to someone who knows more than I.

I make to to abide by the manufacturer's specs for routine maintenance. This is the single greatest thing you can do for your car to ensure it is running well.

Other things I do are:

1 - Change my synthetic oil every 5k since I have a turbo engine. If you have regular oil in your car, start watching after 3k miles for lower levels and deposits (turns oil a dark color and cannot see the dipstick easily through the oil). If this occurs, add oil or change it. Change every 5k regardless or 6 months if you do not drive the vehicle much.

2 - Change the air filter approximately every 10-15k miles. This will allow your car to breathe more freely and will not cause a map shift due to the amount of air in the air/fuel mix to lower (causes the vehicle to run fat/thick/heavy and wastes gas).

4 - Rotate tires every 4-8k miles. Just good practice even if you don't need it. Will save you $$$ over the long haul.

5 - Get an alignment to spec every year. No exceptions, will save wear on the steering column, suspension, and tires.

6 - Every 15-20k miles get your fuel injectors (if applicable, not all cars have dfi or direct fuel injectors) and system cleaned and/or flushed. Will be surprised at the benefits you see.

These are just a bit of what I do... some people think I am crazy but have never had an engine problem that was not covered under warranty of faulty part or routine maintenance. Take it for what it is worth, and with a grain of salt. Take care,

-G

I don't do anything but regular maintenance--get the oil changed every 3000 miles or so, make sure the filters are okay, keep the tires inflated, don't run on an empty tank of gas, keep the tires inflated to the proper psi. My pickup likes to be clean, too, so it get washed once a week. I also follow the maintenance schedule. I think radiator and transmission maintenance are very important. I'm not much on additives. A mechanic added something to my step father's pickup so it gets better gas mileage, but I don't know what that was. Not much help from me.

1. That tornado thing the gent said doesn't make a big enough difference to spend 60 bucks on it. If u do anything to your air box, i recommend a solid tubing (smooth on the inside) and getting a k&n or equivalent.

2. Spark plugs and wires, ALWAYS get the recommended for your vehicle, call your local dealership parts department and ask them what the stop plugs and wires should be. Brand and type makes a very big difference.

3. Oil changes. Takes 5min. I would recommend Mobil 1 oil and filter. but royal purple is the way to go if u got the cash.

4. Once a week check all your fluids. maybe steam clean the engine (cover sensors up if ur going to do this) and see if u notice and leaking anywhere. the basic inspection of your engine can cost hundreds even thousands depending on the car.

5. Rotate your tires. Check air frequently. If u notice and bald spots on the inside or outside of the tires, get an alignment. if its not that new shocks or struts.

6. All in all just drive your car good. if u drive it hard like speeding up alot or carrying heavy loads, your car is going to break down sooner than someone Else's that's driving good.

well Jim I am retired from Chrysler and I drive a 1995 Dodge Dakota pick up six cylinder Magnum. I keep oil changed ,proper air in tires ,

keep vehicle tuned up and the , cooling system is treated once a year, and for the last four years I have been burning E-85 which is a clean burning fuel and equivalent to approx 120 Octane and this does not seem to hurt engine nor fuel tank , true I don't get the mileage I would with regular gas but the cost is compatible and engine seems to run better and will leave some eight cylinder cars far behind not bad for old 62 year old man with an old truck .