What pipes should I use to exhaust a wood burning stove?

While installation manuals usually provide all the instructions necessary for a manufactured home owner to install a wood-burning fireplace or wood stove, the consequences of a mistake are so disastrous, it's a task best left to experts.

It's a good idea to first check with your insurance company for their guidelines before installing these items. Your insurance policy may not cover damages if a fireplace or wood stove was not professionally installed. Plus, the manufacturer's warranty on the fireplace or wood stove may not apply unless the unit is installed by a professional.

Make sure you and the installer follow these safety requirements to prevent problems:

* If the fireplace or wood stove will be installed on a combustible floor, build a non-combustible hearth to protect the floor underneath the unit and in front of the opening.

* The hearth extension in front of the fireplace or wood stove needs to be made of noncombustible material. It should be extend at least 16 inches in front of, and at least 10 inches beyond each side of the unit.

* Equip the fireplace or wood stove with a built-in ash guard and spark-resistant screen, as well as metal or glass doors.

* Before you select a location for your fireplace or wood stove, consider the normal traffic pattern through the room, the location of doors and windows, and any construction obstacles above and below the unit.

* A corner might be the most economical location for your fireplace. Because of the slanted sides, a corner-installed fireplace takes up less floor space than one installed against a flat wall and projected into the room.

* Do not install the wood stove closer than 36 inches to any unprotected combustible wall. The adjacent walls should never feel uncomfortably warm.

* If you would like the wood stove to be closer than 36 inches to a wall, you may be able to reduce the clearance to 12 inches if you protect the wall with an approved, ventilated, non-combustible wall protector. Your insurance company may need to approve it as well. When installing the wall protector, space it out from the wall with screws and spacers. Make sure these spacers are placed so that they don't conduct heat directly into the wall stud.

* Supply the fireplace or wood stove with air from outside the home. It's important that a combustion air inlet provide this outside air. Make sure the inlet damper is located above the snow level. Also make sure the combustion air inlet does not drop ashes, which could be hot, under your home.

* Determine what type of stovepipe will be connected to your wood stove. It should be a double-wall steel stovepipe, which means the chimney pipe is shielded by another stovepipe at least two inches larger in diameter. A triple-wall pipe is even safer. If you use a double or triple-wall pipe, or if the wall is protected by an approved, ventilated, non-combustible protector, place the stovepipe at a minimum of 9 inches from the wall.

* It's important that your fireplace/wood stove flue pipe extends higher than all other combustion pipes and vents on your home's roof. The chimney must be at least 3 feet higher than that roof, and at least 2 feet higher than everything else within a 10-foot radius.

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Yes, you can do that. I'm about to do the same thing. If the uninsulated stove pipe runs near any combustible parts of the building, shield them with something non-combustible. You can also get stovepipe which has a second layer on one side. Install that side nearest the combustibles. It's much cheaper than fully insulated pipe. Going straight through to the roof means it's much easier to clean the stovepipe. I used to whack the stovepipe with a broom when it was cold and any creosote would fall off and down into the stove cleanout. Saved getting up on the roof to clean more than once or twice a year. However, as another poster has pointed out, the stovepipe needs to have clear air around it to function properly. Even if it's near the peak of a roof, it has to stick up a bit above the peak, so if this pipe will be at the bottom of a peaked roof, it might have to be on the long side to work properly. Wind blowing down across the roof could make a downdraft into the stove if the pipe is too short.

It is a great idea, and good construction, to use the single wall pipe up to the ceiling. It will give you the most heat transfer to the building area. The pipe then must change to a class 'A' chimney to 2 feet above the peak of the roof. If you should change back to single wall pipe above the roof this leads to abnormal creosote formation in the pipe. The single wall pipe does not insulate the exhaust gases and they then condense on the cold pipe. I tried this to save money but after several months of cleaning the pipe every week I changed it to the class 'A'.

I would suggest going out through the wall rather than the roof. The general rule for flue pipe is that the exhaust end should be 2 feet higher than anything within 20 feet, which is why you usually see the stove vents near the peak of the roof.

Yes I think you could do that.........put one piece of sheetrock behind it and don't worry about the roof........your hole going through should have to be at least 2'' bigger all around......and the last one I cut in was bigger than that...........you will get a special roof jack to cut into the roofing and caulk it correctly if possible........it should also have a counter flashing that goes around the pipe........and if you have to go up high for codes....tie the pipe off to eyes in the roof. Good luck...It will feel good to be warm on those car projects:)

You have the right idea. Uninsulated pipe will provide heat to the space.Make sure you respect building code and install the stove and pipe the proper distance away from the wall or any other combustible material

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