I have a clearview stove, vision 500, i'd like to fit a back boiler and heat a water cylinder? how is it done?

don't, don't, don't, don't

Firstly, Clearview are fabricated steel so don't have the heat soak capacity for a decent back boiler.

Secondly, a 10KW stove will produce trickle heat to a hot water tank, taking it to about 45 degrees, and take the chill off about 3 radiators. Thats it. I think your 500 is 8KW so it will be worse.

At the same time, your stove will not kick out any heat into the room and you'll be forever thinking its not "drawing" properly.

You will also need to fit a soak radiator somewhere. This heats up when the tank is hot and the zone valve for that turns off. You need a zone valve on your tank because if you didn't, you would be heating yor stove with oil or whatever you normally heat your water with !! This soak radiator needs be thought out carefulyl because it will not come on when your normal heating comes on.

A Clearview with a back boiler will neither heat the room properly, nor heat the hot water properly.

But, if you insist.....

You'll need a back boiler, plumbing, about 6 zone valves, control unit, thermo-sensors and a dunsley neutraliser.

The back bolier gets fitted inside your stove with pipes going through the back. Plumbing gets routed ( in 22mm ) from the stove to near your water tank. You put the dunsley nuetraliser under or near your tank. You put the water tank, back boiler, soak rad and normal heat source ( oil or gas boiler or whatever ) into the dunsley via zone valves and 4 thermo sensors. You set up the controls so that which ever heat source is hotter ( back or oil boiler ) feeds the water tank - all controlled by the zone valves.

It'll cost between £1K and £2K assuming you have the stove in place and the boiler and tank are just one room away.

You might find a plumber to drill your Clearview, but you might have to take it out and ship it back to the factory ( shropshire, right ? )

As a builder I've had this done for many clients and the results are always disappointing. Plumbers just do not recommend it any more, peoples expectation of "heat when you want it" from gas or oil are too high.

We have an 11KW Stovax cast iron stove and wouldn't dream of fittng a back boiler to it, it'll kill it.

1) Its quite possible there is still air in the system following the radiator replacement - so don't be too hasty in lifting boards etc.It doesn't take much air to lose pressure. In fact every time I bleed a rad I expect to top the pressure up. 2) I don't know of any gadget to help as the pipes under the floors will be insulated. You could isolate the boiler from the pipework and put a pressure test on it. Not something to be doing this time of year though it would identify if it is the pipework or the boiler. 3) You can lose pressure in the boiler if the heat exchanger were leaking or if the prv were passing - the one that discharges outside if the system goes over pressure

Clearview Vision 500

clearview stove vision 500 fit boiler heat water cylinder

" Michael H " has certainly done his homework, I could'nt better it if I tried !!!!

It's a well known fact that when a back boiler is fitted to any appliance that is designed to provide space heating, it SAPS the heat from the appliance, and the householder wonders what is wrong with it.

e,g, when I was plumbing in the eighties, I had occasion to drain an old back boiler that had developed a leak. I disconnected the pipes from the copper cylinder, drilled a small hole in the back boiler, and lit the fire.

Three weeks later I was working in the same street, and the lady came to me and said........Whatever you did to my fire, I wish you had done it 30 years ago, as I now have heat in my living room !!!!

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