2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Spins but will not start?

Interesting question and thank you for trying to give us as much detailed info as possible.

From what you've mentioned to me it's either the old common problem that sometimes the theory doesn't work out when it comes to practical hands on trouble shooting and repair issues.Also sometimes although certain test equipment reads a certain way and we get false miss-leading test readings or diagnoses.

Even though a comp is any vehicle can act like it's working fine at times their actually faulty or not picking up the error within the system due to bad connections such as grounds or wires that link the comps with the different types of sensors etc.

Such devices even as a sensor can seem to be giving a proper reading to the comp etc but in actual fact their faulty or have a faulty connection etc.

From what you've said I might be desiring to give that vehicle a full visual inspection of all the grounds especially and any wiring for the sensors , PCM ,TCM , BCM etc.I'd want to be sure 100% that each plug is getting gas and visually check each one, also I'd try unplugging the crank sensor etc one by one and not only check for corrosion or rust or bad wiring but also to see if when trying to the start the vehicle the engine light and a code appear for each sensor.

If trouble error codes didn't appear or any service engine lights it make me wonder about the main brain the PCM or the connections or wiring going to and from it especially to the cam and crank sensors.

Also there always is a chance that not enough spark is being created by the ignition module system and a simple thing like corroded or rusty connections to the coil via spark-plug wires or the plug in feed harness.Basically if you had a very weak ground or hi voltage coil output this could cause problems with not a high enough or strong enough spark.Plus I'd recommend performing a full ignition coil housing visual check just in case signs or cracks or bulges or any dis-colouring due exist bec those are signs of ignition module problem.

I want to check the relays in the different ignition starting etc circuits and double check them for any signs of corrosion or rust or bad connections , plus I'd probably try different relays in their place but I'd clean all the connections or pins on the fuses and relays too one by one.

One main test I'd try to perform is a full diagram pin layout and wiring test on the main comp and especially it's grounds, if you've a good positive , negative led test probe handy and diagrams I'd be sure to not just check the grounds on the PCM but all grounds and main feeds going to the comp and the different engine sensors or devices etc.

You might be quite surprised in all the bad grounds or weak grounds and other positive 12 volt readings you'd find that also are weak.Especially bec Dodge uses low grade , thin wiring and due to the vehicle being a 2001 I highly again recommend checking the connections etc I've mentioned but also over hauling the charging system connections and connectors one by one and their connectors , plus the engine block grounds and any grounds that link each comp to each other via their ground.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way one more thing is try checking the harness's especially that might be tight or are close to heat bec many times it's the wires or harness's where you find the bad connection or internally corroded faulty wires.

One last thing I'am wondering if the EGR system is working right I'd check all vac lines , vac hoses , vac junctions and any plug in connections related.

Well, you're missing something because it should be running if indeed all those test results are correct. You have pressure at the injectors but have you removed them to check the pattern? This is a long shot because it would be hard to believe that more than a couple of injectors are acting up at the same time. I hate to say this but maybe your tests need to be done again double checking your procedures as well as your results. It doesn't take that much to get an engine running.

confident you could as long because of the fact the rusted part of the line isn't at a installation heavily decrease out the previous and use a heater hose, i might use some zip ties to re-preserve the strains. this may be some thing to maintain an eye fixed on from right here on out on the grounds that's a rubber line uncovered to the climate, it is not going final as long, in contrast to aluminum line being plenty better.

sounds like your fuel pump or filter is plugged!

got spark? got gas?

got compresion? if so it should run if spark is at corect time