Do I need a Cement Backer board for Ceramic Tile?

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RE:

Do I need a Cement Backer board for Ceramic Tile?

I plan on installing about 400 square feet of ceramic tile in a kitchen. I wanted to know if I need to put down a cement backer board before laying the tile?

If so, how do I determine if I should use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch?

Finally, what is the preferred method of securing it to the subfloor? ...

Cement Backer Board

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If the tile is stuck to plywood. Chip out a single row of tile down the length of the floor and another row across the width, with the intersection of the two rows somewhere in the middle of your floor. This will expose the plywood underlayment. Now fit a reciprocating saw with a 12-inch-long wood-cutting blade and make a shallow plunge cut into the plywood. Just as the blade starts to cut through the plywood, pull the saw toward you and make a continuous, low-angle cut just through the plywood underlayment, not the subfloor. (As awkward as a reciprocating saw may seem, a circular saw is actually harder to control and kicks up too much dust.) Once you've finished the cut, work your flatbar under the underlayment and rip it up, tile and all. Tile that's attached to cement backerboard needs the same kind of treatment as tile stuck to plywood. Just use a recip saw with a carbide-grit masonry cutting blade and work in one small area at a time. If the backerboard is glued down, the plywood subfloor may be damaged during the removal process. Any panels that are damaged will have to be ripped out and replaced.

Advantages of using backerboard instead of wood is its ability to withstand moisture, steam, and other types of wetness common to rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms where ceramic tile is usually installed.

The cement backer board can be screwed or nailed to the wood framing. Always follow the instructions printed by the manufacturer. I use hot-dipped ring-shanked nails if I am nailing. Corrosion-resistant screws can also be used

You do not need cement backer board. However, you will need to lay subfloor to make the floor more secure before laying tile. 1/2 plywood, glued, and screwed to the floor joists. This will prevent the floor from shifting, and causing your grout, and possibly your tile to crack. It's an extra step, but when you think about the money and time you're putting into your tile, it's worth while.

Here's my personal experience

1) in most cases, it is not necessary to cover existing surfaces with cement backer board

2) for example, it's ok to tile over existing vinyl sheet flooring as long as the substrate (typ. plywood and/or particle board) under it is both flat & dry (not appreciably swollen) - first, galvanized-nail down any loose spots & along any cracks, roughen its surface with a belt sander, wash with ammonia water to remove dust & old floor "wax", & dry it.

3) Modern polymer-modified sanded thinset (about $15/50# sack at Home Depot or Lowes - this stuff sticks to (and thereby seals) just about anything) stirred up with just enough water to make a "stiff" mix works fine for both setting the tiles & then grouting them the next day

4) make your straight tile cuts with a scratch/break-type cutter - for curved cuts or holes use a dry 4" diamond blade-equipped hand grinder

5) if the existing sheet flooring is "coved" upwards along the wall, appropriate-width pieces of your new ceramic tile can cover it too after its surface is prepared (sanded, cleaned etc.) the same way that the flatwork was. The same thinset used to stick those pieces of tile onto the existing coving can be troweled into a nice looking border along their top edges.

5) While it's handy to use the conventional plastic coated tile spacers for your flatwork (little pieces of uniformly thick wood are equally handy & possess the added advantage of coming in any thickness you choose to make), expect to shift your tiles a bit when using them. The reason for this is that "real" ceramic tiles vary somewhat in size (especially from box to box) which will produce bad-looking corner junctions otherwise

5) Harbor freight is a good place (cheapest) to get the necessary tools/equipment

The best is to secure your sub-floor with screws into the floor joists. I just did my kitchen and hall and used the dark brown sheets that used to be called formica but the cement backer board will work as well, only 1/4 inch is required.

For flooring, use the 1/4 inch backer and afix it to the floor using thinset mortar and backr screws