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My cockatiel keep biting me and somehow he bites on my lip?
Hi all,
I have a 5-month old cockatiel for 2 months now. At first I thought it's a she but now I'm convinced that it's a boy coz' he whistles whatever songs I sang.
Well I realised that he likes to bite or nibble my fingers, he literally chase my fingers to bite even though I was not intended to touch him at all. I punish him for that by putting him back to his cage and he improved from time to time. Actually, on the third day I got him, he started to give me kisses when I 'behaved'. He'd kiss my face and lips. Now he still doing the same but sometime he turned his kiss into biting. Especially on my lip, (even though I tried to avoid the kisses most of the time) he started to bite from soft to hard and would yank my lip. I told him NO for million times and I punished him for that too but he still doing that. Why did he do that and is there a way to stop him?
I appreciate your help, cheers.
Thanks everyone for your advice. There's one thing I needed to add, I didnt encourage him to come near my face but whenever he steps up he comes straight on to my shoulder and when I wanted to get him step up again from my shoulder he be hiding at my back under my hair so I cant grab him. I cant stop him to come on to my shoulder coz' after stepping up for a few time then he started being grumpy. I tried to give him some tissue (he loves chewing it) but after a while he be sitting on my shoulder again and start 'annoying' me.
5 Answers
- PrincessJinxLv 41 decade agoFavorite Answer
Just keep trying to tell him no. I accidentally taught my bird to peck my lips. I was trying to teach him the kissy sound and now when I say "Spore give me kisses" or whenever he wants to be cute or wants attention, he will come up to my lips and give them little pecks. I am trying to discourage him from doing it more than once. After he does it once if does it again then I push him away or move my head. He is slowly understanding i think.
I use a time out method for my bird too and it does work... just an aside but usually I save it for when they constantly go places they shouldnt
- Anonymous1 decade ago
The concept of "punishment" does not really exist for parrots, including cockatiels. They have a very limited grasp of cause and effect. Your cockatiel might have no idea why you're putting him back in his cage when he starts biting.
When it comes to discouraging biting, I have always found putting them back in their cage for anything over five minutes to be ineffective. And I rarely put them back in their cages for that at all.
Some of the cockatiels I've known have developed a similar habit. A good place to start is to keep him away from your face. If he cannot get to your lip, obviously he can't bite it. And as for your fingers, when he starts to bite at them, say "No!" sternly and then force him to step up. "Step up" is known as a control command for a reason. It is a command you use to control his actions. When he steps up, he has to stop chewing on you.
When I've helped train some young male cockatiels, I notice that they will do something similar when they want to play. Male cockatiels can play surprisingly roughly. Perhaps keeping a toy on you will help this. My own male cockatiel's favourite toy was a very small leather strap toy that had plastic beads on it. When he started chewing, he would also make this "whining" noise. I'd dangle the toy in front of his face, and we'd play a sort of half-hearted tug of war. That pretty much solved his problem, as he learned that the toy was okay to play with like that, and not me.
Again, you have to be careful with "punishment" because it's usually quite ineffective. "Time-out" is not an effective means of reinforcement.
Keep in mind what your reaction is. If you give him huge reaction when he starts chewing, then you're accidentally encouraging him to chew on you. Your reaction should be to tell him "No" and to make him step up. Place him somewhere away from you- perhaps on his cage. But don't bother "grounding" him for any period of time, and certainly don't give him a huge reaction.
Best of luck to you!
EDIT:
I mentioned this to a friend of mine with cockatiels, and she said she had a similar problem, and this is how she solved it:
When her cockatiel would try to chew on her lips, she would either pick him up and put him somewhere else, or she would vibrate her lips and then pull them inside. The cockatiel, from what I understand, REALLY did not like the sensation of vibration on his beak, and he'd wander away shaking his head.
She says that she did this long enough, and eventually he stopped trying. So, there's an option!
Source(s): Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital Proud owner of four parrots. Three years volunteering at an avian shelter. - ?Lv 44 years ago
you have gotten multiple suggestion approximately this already that i'm no longer likely to rehash, different than to agree that that's a have faith situation, that's organic, and being polite on your chook is the foremost. this is going to take time. right that's a catalogue of important factors of chook ettiquette which you will no longer understand, which will galvanize your chook and make you seem as though a stand-up guy: a million). height is capability -- don't be taller than your chook once you're close to his cage. shop him between your chest and your neck point. This shall we him understand which you're dominant yet you're no longer a monster. 2). do no longer positioned on a hat around him -- cockatiels exceptionally communicate status, anger and threats with their head adorns! Glasses and different head adorns additionally are touch-and-circulate. one among my parrots has to tear out a strand or 2 of my hair if I dye it, just to enable me understand he does not like it -- and he's the only that i'm closest to! 3). in the previous you employ a noisy gadget or an merchandise that comes bigger than your knee, close to his cage, gently gesture in direction of it and warn him. 4). Make eye touch, crawl, and in basic terms touch him once you may. Ask his permission to the touch issues that are his. Ask permission to return in and sparkling. Birds can tell the meaning of language especially lots so it does advise something to him. 5). do no longer touch any area of him different than his feet, head and neck. in basic terms %. him up utilising the "step up" command: your index finger decrease than his breast bone, and lifted up into it with the command "step up". this is the 1st command that a puppy chook in many circumstances learns.
- 5 years ago
Every dog needs some type of training. The first class I ever took a dog to was https://tr.im/NzvHv
It's a very basic kind of class. They will help you with your dog, and show you how to work with your dog at home.
They'll also answer any questions you have about your dog's particular problems and how to handle them. The most important thing in dog training is to be consistent and work with your dog at home on the lessons. The PetSmart class teaches sit, down, come, and the very basics every dog needs to know. They will also help socialize your dog. You are unhappy with an untrained dog, and believe it or not, the dog is actually unhappy to. You need to take your dog now, as the older he gets, the harder it will be to correct your dog's bad habits. Plus the classes are fun for you and your dog. My dog went from that first PetSmart class on to advanced obedience classes. You might also contact your local humane society. The one in my area offers obedience classes with a very good trainer at a reduced price.
- 1 decade ago
I'm not a bird expert but he probably wants food or wants to play.
I have a cat and when she wants me to pet her she will bit me.
If it continuous just ask a vet about what he could be wanting. Good luck.