I need to find a product which is suitable for making an exact replica of a face which is sculpted on a wall.?

How much time do you have to access the face? Minutes, hours, days?

One of the slower methods is to use latex mold compound, which is painted on in a thin layer and allowed to dry to amber color, then additional layers are added until moderately thick. If a fan or blower is used to speed the process it still takes about an hour per layer. Its advantages are that it is cheap and reasonably tough and picks up details.

A major problem is getting a rigid support behind it so that when you take it off and fill the mold, it is not distorted by the weight of the filling material. I would build a shallow wooden box/tray that would fit over the molded face and contact the wall around the rim. The box would have 3 narrow sides attached to a large thin back panel like 1/4" plywood and would be positioned to be open on the top side. I would put weather striping along the surface if touching the wall and probably use blue painters tape along the join of the box sides and the wall. If working alone, it would almost certainly require a brace to hold the box. Once the molding material is firm, a thick batch of plaster of Paris would be made and poured into the box to fill the space between the mold and box - it doesn't have to exactly fit the mold everywhere to support the mold enough. After 10 minutes or so, the plaster would be hard enough to remove the box and then peel off the mold. Then both would be allowed to dry out. At and above this link http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/neckmold.htm#FAC... are small examples of the process and results.

To make a complete head, you would have to do one of several steps all of which involve first making a plaster or wax copy in the mold.

1) Make a plaster copy and use that as the front face of a soft modeling clay version of the rest of the head. Then make mold(s) of the rest of the head or the face plus rest (a new face mold including part of the head) and pour a full head. If the new full head were plaster (many sections), you could pour clay slip to make a hollow ceramic casting somewhat smaller than the original.

2) Make a plaster copy and make a rough cast plaster head to match it in size then sculpt the plaster head to match the face (plaster can be added to plaster as well as carved away) and finally add the face to the rest of the head.

3) Cast a sculpting wax copy of the face and build a wax sculpture of the rest of the head using techniques like these http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/castgobl.htm including fastening the wax face to the rest or building from it. Then make a mold or casting off the wax.

it also depends what material the face is made out of. If it is stone and very porous you probably should use some soap as a mold release and to prevent damage. You also need to figure out whether it has undercuts (and how much) and how many parts the mold needs to be.

If you would use alginate with a plaster mothermold as backing you shouldn't do any damage and it would replicate very good detail. But you would need some practice to apply it fast enough as on a vertical surface you would need it to set pretty quickly. The alginate allows for a certain amount of undercuts as it's flexible. As it shrinks when it dries out you would have to use the mold on the same day and it is a one-time use mold.

If you want something a bit longer lasting you could make a silicon mold out of brushable silicon. Smooth-on has some which worked for me in the past, though I have to say that the material started to disintegrate after less than half a year of storage (which is much less than what they advertised).

Generally good mold making requires practice, so if that's the first time you are making molds I would first practice it on some simple objects. Also google mold making instructions and read up on the process BEFORE you get started or even get materials. Looking through youtube videos should help too. Looking through books in the library about the subject is also a good idea.

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