Taking photos of Fireworks with Nikon D60?

Techniques for photographing firework displays

Introduction

Fireworks can be a very difficult subject to photograph, the main problem being exposure, but with a little knowledge, care and planning, and the expectation of an above average failure rate some very satisfying results can be achieved. In fact it is the very nature of the element of chance which makes the good shots so pleasing to the photographer.

Choice of Camera

The first consideration is the choice of camera, the most important consideration being that manual control is essential. The constantly changing exposure time, colour balance and light intensity through the frame simply fools an automatic camera.

A Simple Rule

I learnt a very simple rule of thumb which has served me well: choose an aperture which is nearest to the square root of the speed of the film you are using. This is not as complex as it first sounds. Put simply, if your film speed is ISO 100, the square root is 10 and therefore the nearest aperture is f11. This an excellent starting point because a slow, ISO 100 is a good choice, or as an alternative use ISO 64 at f8. This brings us onto the exposure.

Exposure

A good firework photograph inevitably takes a number of seconds to expose otherwise it would have very little content. A camera with automatic exposure up to 30 seconds can give good results but sometimes you will hear the shutter click shut just as a seriously exciting shell explodes in the sky. The best bet in the long run is to use the B setting on the shutter speed, which keeps the shutter open under your control, and a locking cable release is very useful. The judgment you have to develop is to imagine the light from the fireworks painting itself onto the film surface. When you have built up enough of an image close the shutter and wind on for the next frame. A bright sequence or a sky full of fireworks may only take a few seconds while on the other hand you might keep open the shutter for many seconds when little is happening and build up the photograph over several salvos. Some photographers have even used the lens cap while the shutter is open, waiting for the next 'good bit'. Don't worry about reciprocity failure. It goes without saying here that a tripod is essential.

Focussing

Normally a critical aspect of photography, focusing takes a back seat with fireworks. Just set the focus ring on infinity and forget about it!

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Plan Ahead

Much of the success of fireworks photography is in anticipation and forward knowledge and planning. Knowledge of displays will help you to choose the right vantage point to get ground, mid-sky and aerial bursts all in the frame without too much, if any repositioning of the tripod. If you have planned displays you will also know of the importance of wind speed and direction when it comes to smoke.

Composition

Remember the basic rules of composition and try to have something in the foreground and background to give perspective and context. If there is water around, the right angle to pick up reflections is also useful. Most of this is of course planned in broad daylight and without the pressure and problems of crowds.

Choice of Film

The appeal of the final photograph is always a matter of taste and as a consequence so is the choice of film. Some p

Just get a good tripod, and a remote shutter release (wireless, or tethered cable type), put your camera on M mode, use a good zoom lens (your kit lens will work) select an aperture of f/8 or f/11, shutter speed to "bulb" (in M mode, adjust the shutter speed dial until it says bulb on the info screen), and set the ISO to 100 or 200 (depending on ambient light). Get some idea of how to frame the bursts for the distance you are from it. Tripods are important because the shutter will be open for a few seconds, much too slow to be hand held. A remote is important because holding down the shutter release on the camera, even on a tripod will cause enough vibration to make the clean lines you should get from an exploding firework go squiggly. The idea behind the bulb shutter speed is the shutter will remain open for as long as you hold down the shutter release button. Exposure is unimportant, but a 2-4 second exposure generally works. Hold down the shutter release (using the remote) during each expolosion. It takes a lot of practice, but you'll get it without square roots or whatever else.

This was a non tripod shot taken by a friend. http://www.flickr.com/photos/itsdavedotnet/3770431...

Using an ultrawide lens like the Sigma 10-20 means you don't need to worry about focusing even when shooting wide open. All he did was make sure composition was ok and exposure was sensible.

Mode: M

Shutter: B/bulb, but don't hold it for more than a second really.

Aperture: wide open

ISO: 400-800

Flash: off

Focal length: 18mm (wider if you can)

VR: on

AF: off

Firework photos are easy. You need your D60. Your tripod. That's it.

Here are the photos I took in July. You can view the ExiF information to see my camera settings. I was in manual mode. This way you see the final result and the camera settings. The only thing I did was put my camera on a tripod.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28748265@N08/36954443...

its quite easy really.

i have an Olympus E450. but its all the same really

set F22, set 100 iso. use Aperture priority.

rotate the cam vertical on a tripod, and using full wide angle, compose your scene. if you place teh bottom edge of the lens on teh ground, it covers an awful lot of sky. (prefocus and lock the exposure)

your film will only record light. and expect aperture/shutter combos of half a second... and you get some incredible shots.

another way is set full auto. and release all the axis clamps on the tripod. if you can track the firework, you might get a focus lock... its all worth a try.

Dont waste your time using fast film and F2.. it wont work.