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Car runs louder and shudders when at a stop?

I am a proud owner of a 1998 Hyundai Accent, proud because I drove drove it 5,000 miles on a road trip and she survived. Right now she's at 127,600 miles and it had a safety check before the road trip. Near the end of the road trip I started noticing the car just sounds louder, and the shudder when its idle is a bit jerky, kind of spastic, when I'm at a stop light. When the car shifts gears automatically it feels a little funny too, so maybe they are all related. I try to gently speed up to make it easier on the car. I've been good about oil changes and just replaced air filter. part way through the road trip I had to replace a fan (I believe it was related to the air conditioner), one of two that were broken, because the coolant was overheating to a boil for a while. I'm nervous its something expensive. I've put three times more money in the car in repairs than what I paid and don't know how much more I can give.

Also, the breaks have been squealing since before the safety check. Back breaks were replaced and it still squealed. had two more mechanics check them out and said they were fine, aside from a hose not being put on correctly from back break change (went 3000 miles before break fluid started to leak out excessively), but even when THAT was fixed it still squealed. Not it's getting louder and at times it turns into a tone (normally the squeak is high pitched). It's not always, and it happens when I'm just starting to break, not when I'm really trying to slow down.

I've dealt with three mechanics on this trip, all say different things (one being to trash the car completely) so I just want to know what may be the problem before I start running all over another unfamiliar town looking for a trustworthy mechanic. Thanks!

(Timing belt and water pump were replaced before road trip also, everyone always asks about that)

Update:

I pushed on car with hood up, not sure what I was looking for. Car moved freely as I pushed, nothing hard there, and engine stayed perfectly still inside. Was that what was supposed to happen? New addition to the loudness though: I am currently in Portland, it's raining non stop here. When I drive for a while and stop I can see the rain creating steam the hood of the car. So it's getting hot under there from just driving for 20-30 minutes. Is that normal for an old car?

2 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    My first thought are the engine mounts. With the car in park and turned off, open the hood. Stand in front and push the car gently. If the engine moves easily while pushing the car then it's the engine mounts. Most cars if you push hard enough the engine will rock, the difference is in how easily. If you're having to put your back into it, you're pushing too hard.

    you can replace engine mounts yourself and they're really pretty cheap, between $10 to $50 a piece.

    To replace an engine mount lift the front end onto jack stands. Put your jack under the engine and place a block of wood between the engine and the jack (this prevents damaging the oil pan which would be even more money for you). Push the jack up until there's a small amount of pressure on the engine, you're looking to use the jack to support the engine weight, not lift the car. From there you can remove the engine mounts safely. This procedure should take an hour or two.

    If it's not the engine mount... well come back and ask questions OR you could pay a mechanic to check it out (around $40 from places like goodyear) and then do the work yourself, which people here I'm sure would be happy to help you with.

    As for the brakes, check out the front brakes as well as the back. If the pads all have plenty off life, then the rotors and or drums may need to be turned. To avoid squealing breaks don't use them as much. Squealing for lack of a mechanical problem is a sign that you're getting them hot and using them a lot. Down shift on hills to use the engine to slow you (yes it works on an automatic, that's what the numbers on the shifter are for), remember driving school and only use one foot, using two feet you will have a tendency to slowly put pressure on the pedal and that will glaze the brakes (as well as reduce their life). Don't brake too hard or too slowly, sudden stops and riding the brakes both cause lots of heat and glazing.

    Source(s): Doing work on your own car saves a LOT of money, I can afford a mechanic these days but I can't convince myself it's worth paying 10x's as much for the same job.
  • 5 years ago

    get rid of your plates, stickers, and private assets. in case you're very fortunate; a scrap backyard provide you some money for whats left of your vehicle. The longer you postpone, the extra you will pay for storage. shop a humorousness; or you will finally end up paying to have it remote from the place it died. If the define of injury you have given is barely a million/2 genuine; you're able to purchase a 2013 Lincoln for below your 1980 Taurus will fee to restoration. playstation : in case you particularly want an post-mortem, popping sounds are led to by intake valve failure to close. Being on the Interstate (and in a hurry) you have gotten pushed complicated sufficient to lose an intake valve spring or retainer. The valve became then coming in touch with the piston another revolution. This motives popping because of the fact each and every time the cylinder with an open valve fires, the flame spreads in the process the intake manifold. Had you pulled over today, and grew to become the engine off, you're able to have had a $1500 restoration activity. rather, the piston struck the valve and ruptured the cylinder heads water jacket. This leads to loss of coolant and an infection of the oil. as quickly as overheated; the block, and the cylinder heads crack. The dilution of the oil seizes the shifting factors. The ensuing warmth can short the wiring harness each and all the some time past to the dashboard (especially much impossible to repair). The smoke you describe shows that this did happen.

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