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Help with a sewing pattern?

I'm sewing a McCall's pattern for little girl's sundresses, and I was doing just fine until I got to one part I didn't understand. There is a lining on the inside of the chest/straps area that is applied with fusible interfacing and stitched to the dress along the top. I was then told to clip the seams to a 1/4" seam allowance. Which was fine. But then it says:

"Understitch facing as far as possible."

And now I'm lost. I've tried to look it up online, but I just can't seem to get it. Can anyone help me? I'd like to get this finished before the child I'm making it for outgrows it! :) Here is what the pattern looks like, if anyone has done it themselves and can help that way (McCall's M5416):

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5416-products-878...

3 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    Understitching holds the seam allowances in place, and keeps them from rolling to the outside of the garment.

    Here is a great video tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRtA6_2QiPE

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    And another tutorial. FWIW, I do this before trimming seams to 1/4".... the seam allowances are easier to hang on to.

    http://www.katedicey.co.uk/ then click on "learning zone" then on "understitching".

    An alternative that would accomplish the same thing is to turn the lining to the inside, seam allowances clipped and trimmed. Press well and edgestitch (straight stitch about 1/8" from the edges) or topstitch (usually straight stitch, but a decorative stitch is nice, too, about 1/4" from the edge) the neckline and armhole areas.

    If you've got a presser foot with a "rudder" to the middle or the side of the foot, they can make edge stitching and top stitching very easy. Let the rudder ride on the pressed edge and the needle will stay the set distance from the edge.

    http://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/media/products/t...

    http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/library/aa...

    With those narrow straps, understitching is going to be more difficult than edge- or topstitching. And pattern instructions only give you one of many ways to do the job at hand.

    Source(s): 50 years of sewing
  • 1 decade ago

    Understitching used to drive me crazy. I did not under stand it whatsoever.

    Here's what you do

    If you are holding the blouse and looking at it from the inside, See the facing piece? You sew the seam allowance ( along that sewn edge of the neckline/under arm seam..where ever) to that facing piece so that the facing stays turned under and does not turn out so you can see it from the outside of the fabric

    If I am confusing you, here's another way to put it

    http://www.ehow.com/how_4515747_understitch-seam.h...

    The reason the pattern says " as far as possible" is because you will not be able to go all the way on the seam because the strap area is too small. foot cant reach that small of a space. Make sense?

    Hope this helps. Good Luck!

    Source(s): Occupation- Fashion Designer
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