1991 Ford F-150 Rear Main Seal leak?

you cant see or feel the rear main seal. you are looking at and feeling the pan gasket at the rear of the pan. the rear main will leak into the tranny and out the dust cover area. you probably have a bad pan gasket and better hope so because a rear main seal is a big job, and the pan gasket can be on most motors because usually you can not get the pan off with the motor in the vehicle. whats bad is that most motors now days use a one piece pan gasket and that makes the job harder. sometimes you can drop the pan enough to install the gasket but room is scarce. i have seen some mechanics use to much silicone to seal the pan gasket and doing so can cause the sealant to squeeze into the pan and actually stop up the oil pump screen. your situation may be different but you need to make sure what is leaking and research how to do the repair as neither job is easy and the 4 by 4 makes it even more difficult. good luck and be careful.

1991 Ford F-150

You should be able to do it, if you have done it to a Dodge truck. The only different is you will have to disconnect the front axle and the transmission is heavier then your Dodge.

To remove the seal, you can either get a seal remover or just get a nail and hammer and punch a hole (very lightly) into the seal and screw in a screw and use the craw part of the hammer to pull out the damaged seal.

It is a big job for a very inexpensive seal. If your transmission is manual, I would replace the clutch kit on it as well. The would be the only time you get to see the clutch.

I generally use Berryman's Chemtool B-12 on countless automobiles to end seal leaks and sparkling out the engine (rings, lifters, sludge, etc.). It does soften hardened seals which permits them to lower back seal. The cleansing action around the rings additionally stops or reduces oil burning. only previously an oil replace, upload the Chemtool to a warmed up engine SLOWLY. replace the oil filler cap and rapid idle the engine (a million,500 rpm) for 30 minutes. close off and drain the oil, replace the filter out and use 10-40 or 20-50 oil; 5-30 is only too skinny to guard proper different than on form new engines with under 60,000 miles. The oils on the industry focused on severe mileage automobiles has the comparable lively ingredient (M.E.ok.) whether that is interior the crankcase constantly extremely of for a short era. The Berryman's flush is greater suitable. I even have extensively utilized it in means guidance pumps (small quantity, leave it in). do no longer use on engines that have thew previous rope rear substantial seals. It takes the wax off the rope and that they leak worse than previously (1985 Buick V-6)

This model engine, usually the oil pan gasket comes out and leaks, check first, I usually change both, though I remove engine to do it

i don't think you have to pull the trans. if you drain your oil and pull your pan it might be a pan gasket. if it is a rear main seal then its not hard. remember to get all you torque specs first and try to be as clean as possible. one piece of dirt in a bearing and you screwed. you might as well change your bearings to, so get white lythium grease and pull one at a time but if you dont want to do bearings (highly recomended) just pull the rear mail and put the new one in. torque to specs, fill it and test her out. if you hear ANYTHING unussual shut it off and check it out

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