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Motorcycle chain splitting & attachment - final drive. Triumph 900 Sprint, 1997.?

Hi,

I am a fairly competent home mechanic, but have not installed a riveted chain before. Bought a replacement chain & breaker/riveter tool for the above. Both the supplier, & the tool instructions advise grinding the head off a rivet (i presume to avoid strain on the breaker tool) on the 'old' chain' & attaching the new one to it to pull thru the new one. Then riveting the new chain.

My ? is about grinding the old rivet off. Can I use an electric drill with the appropriate sized bit, or do I need to use a grinding wheel fitment on it? In addition, the supplier advised grinding the back of the rivet off - I would have thought it more sensible to do the front (facing you when working on the bike.

Thanks in advance, & Happy New Year

Update:

Thank you all for your replies. My apologies if I did not make clear that I wanted to grind the rivet heads off when the chain was still on the bike.

I am going to have to take the back wheel out anyway now, as a 6" nail has gone thru both the tread & sidewall!

So I can now take the wheel out & attack the old chain with the angle grinder, then attach the new chain to it & pull it thru.

9 Answers

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  • 9 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    This is quite straight forward.

    You should always replace chain and sprockets as a set though else new chain will wear very rapidly.

    I would remove required sprocket cover and replace sprockets first then feed chain around and assemble ready to rivit.

    To remove old chain a dremel or a normal angle grinder will do the job perfect. You can also use a grinding stone fitted in an electric drill. Be careful and wear goggles though.Removing the front rivet face is fine.

    The secret with re rivetting is to splay the ends over enough to be secure but not so much that you make the link tight. It needs to be able to move freely. Try it in stages as you can always splay rivet a little more if it needs it.

    You will realise how easy it is once you have given it a go. Also take the opportunity to clean all accumalated crud from front sprocket cover.

  • ?
    Lv 6
    9 years ago

    You got the general idea on how to do this just remember if you are replacing the whole chain,why grind off the rivets,use your grinding wheel to just cut the chain in half and be done with it.Unless you have bought a exact link count on the new chain you will have to take links off, to fit to length. Now if you have to grind the new chain,just don't take to long to do it as the heat from the grinding can transfer to another link and deform the o-ring in the chain.Not that big of a deal,drilling out the links with a drill bit won't work,the pins are heat treated,a grinder is the way to go.When you have the chain split just tie a piece of string around the first link and pull the old chain off then tie the string on to the new chain and pull it through the front sprocket.Piece of cake-the only reason I can think off they said to work from the backside is-the rivet set on some chains are square on one side and round on the other,the round side pushes through a little easier.

    Source(s): DoinitatahundredCBR929
  • Tim D
    Lv 7
    9 years ago

    You will have trouble getting a drill to sit on the exact centre of the rivet – even with a punch mark on it – because the chain will move laterally and vertically (almost impossible from the back too). Hold the chain with a mole grip and use an angle grinder to take off the rear face of the rivet, the rivet should knock through from the back but you can get a grip on it to pull it through.

    You should have a good look at the sprockets, they normally wear at the same rate as the chain – especially the front one. Look for pointed and hooked teeth.

  • Dan H
    Lv 7
    9 years ago

    I use a dremel tool, but anything that will grind away without hitting bike parts other than the chain will work. Grind it smooth with the chain plate and use the tool to push the pin out.

    I grind the front of the pin off. You can't really get to the back without removing the wheel and that shouldn't be necessary to change a chain on the sprint.

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  • Anonymous
    9 years ago

    I replaced my chain/sprockets on my Honda a couple of months ago. You really should replace both sprockets as well. I would suggest going to youtube and type in ~ how to replace a motorcycle chain and sprockets ~ watch all the different videos on this subject before you start. It's well worth the time and it will help keep you from making mistakes.

  • JayJay
    Lv 7
    9 years ago

    I use a Dremel tool, or something similar. The chain links are welded to the pins on one side, and loose on the other side, Grind the heads off the loose side (both sides) and the pins will slide out attached to the back-side link.

  • ?
    Lv 4
    4 years ago

    Riddle me this, why do automobiles have shaft force? force line lash, torque and mass. The heavier the automobile, the extra probable it incredibly is to have some variety of direct mechanical linkage between the transmission and the proper force. Chains are an incredibly loose mechanical coupling and as such have a brilliant variety of backlash. yet in a bike of three hundred - 500 lbs and a foot or so of return and forth it incredibly is acceptable. Why, oh why do racing motorcycles use them? Weight! they're easy. Shafts and belts are heavier. Belts truthfully have a geared up in slip, sturdy for passenger automobile, no longer sturdy for racing motorbike, while a hundreth of a 2nd is properly worth one hundred grand. And till now I hear any oh my belt is so easy, evaluate that a belt isn't in user-friendly terms the belt and pulleys, this is belt, pulleys, tensioner, extra effective physique width and rear width , thicker axle, belt look after... and so forth... In reliability learn, a shaft has a some distance extra effective MTBF than the two belt or chain, as subsequently is extra desireable on extra effective street motorcycles. fee. Shafts are extra high priced. Belts are particularly low priced, yet that pales till now the ten gazillion t-50 bike/shape equip, pumps/ backyard mower finals that use that chain length. Chains are purely low priced. they're basic to make, basic to restoration, sprockets are airborne dirt and dirt low priced, and extremely sturdy interior of limits. As to it incredibly is extra powerful, for a passenger motorbike? properly i might look purely on the mass of your motorbike. If it incredibly is a brilliant huge motorbike then the shaft is a thank you to circulate. Belt and chain is a wash routinely. Failure quotes count far extra on area and use then on preliminary layout. extremely any motorbike you get is going to have an incredibly final force suitable for layout use. Any contemporary motorbike is truthfully going to be basic to maintain, and sturdy (and by employing recent I advise 80's) i in my view want a shaft force, yet i'm no longer gonna exchange my drivetrain to make it take place.

  • 4 years ago

    It just depends on your own lifestyle... and your daily activities... Myself personally I keep my nail from about a quarter inch from the actual tips of my fingers because I type all day

  • 9 years ago

    I wouldn't even try. 100bhp and a heavy bike, I reckon that is a job for the bike shop. I'd make them laugh at my admitting defeat, they might even fit it for nothing. None of us can do everything, perhaps my wimp-out level is lower than your's but we all have one!

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