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Fionnabhair asked in PetsDogs · 9 years ago

How to deal with fear aggressive dogs?

''A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be the life and soul of the park parties.''

''The cornerstones of treatment are desensitization and counter-conditioning (DCC). During the DCC program it is important to NOT expose your dog to any of the stimuli that he is afraid of unless you are controlling the presentation. Basically, this involves exposing your dog to the fearful stimuli, one at a time to begin and then in combinations, in a CONTROLLED manner, to a degree that does not illicit the fearful response. Then, you reward your dog for remaining calm. ''

''One of the things to do with dogs that are shy of people in given situations is to set up training sessions that build confidence and security. If you are unlucky enough to already own a fearful shy pup the main solution begins with socializing the dog. Take it everywhere you go. Make sure to control its environment to the extent that you do not place it in a situation where it is extremely afraid. If it shows concern, pick it up or get down on your knees, pet and calm it down. Show it that there is nothing to be afraid of. Obedience training and socializing are the best solutions for most shy dogs. It is very important to be very careful with your pup around older dogs.''

These were taken from different sites with advice on how to deal with a fear aggressive dog, because apparently google is as good as an actual trainer for advice(?)!

If a fear aggressive dog was corrected with a prong, choke or e-collar and it was made to fear that correction MORE than the person or dog it was attacking, do you think that would be an effective ''treatment'' for the fear aggression?

If you disagree with any of the points in the copied phrases above, feel free to explain why and what you would do.

7 Answers

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  • Anonymous
    9 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    Sure, uh huh...of course..yes, all the time..this is exactly what should happen...after all, we have years and years to deal with this.

    Here is my solution and what I would do if I ever owned a dog like this...I would take it to McDonald's and get it $20 worth of food, anything it loved to eat, just so you don't think I don't have a heart...then I would take it to a big open field and let it eat it and then send it to that long tunnel with the bright white light at the other end...you know, that "farm" in they sky where all dogs go to when they are supposedly given to "uncle Tom".

    I don't have the time, the temperament, the patience or anything else to deal with a dog like this, plus, I am smart enough to know that there will NEVER be a cure for a genetic issue and I will not walk around on eggshells for the next 10 years just to house a nerve bag.

    Source(s): Realist
  • ?
    Lv 6
    9 years ago

    This is actually a quite stimulating question. The root of the fear has to be considered. A dog with a loose screw (so to speak), can never be repaired. Yes, you can attempt to desensitize it to the "monster in the closet"...but never to a complete finish. Some dogs have so many "monsters", that they get scared while trying to feed them or give them water. The only real solution is the bone yard. I guess if you live alone, and really don't care what the dog does...you could feed it and sustain life. But allowing a dog like that to live is not only abuse in itself...but just selfish.

    A dog that is predisposed to be fearful is another issue. Chows and Shar Peis are genetically fearful. NO dominance, protectiveness, stubbornness, etc that is so often mistaken with these breeds. These are breeds that are afraid, but really don't have any "monsters". They can be misdirected, and be quite manageable. It is time consuming and requires several people to be involved in the training. Once you have them so confused about what is safe...they forget they are supposed to be afraid. You don't waste time showing them they don't have to be afraid of anything in particular...you just expand on what is NOT a monster.

    I have served my time with hundreds of both...and have no urge or need to revisit them. NO more schnitbags...no more dogs under 10 inches tall...no more wanna be working dogs. It's good to have all that WAY behind me.

  • ?
    Lv 4
    5 years ago

    Usually after dogs get into fights they "recover" but yours did not. It kinda scared him. He feels now that he has to be dominant and not show fear. If he sees another dominant dog, he acts up. You do need to talk to a good trainer. Its not uncommon for dogs to change after an attack. I was scared about my husky. He was attacked by another dog to the point where he was shaking afterwards. Luckily he still has his confidence and is fine around other dogs. I was told if he starts being aggressive to see a trainer. Its a psychological thing. Good luck.

  • Okay who ever wrote #3 is a total wackadoodle. Okay let me take my fearful 150lb Mastiff out everywhere it goes and if it tries to bite a child or a person then that's okay because I will just pick it up and give it pats on the head and say "That's okay. Did that little baby's stroller scare you?" NOT. Pets/Treats/Speech are REWARDS. Why in hell would I want to reward fear?

    I do agree that you should reward a fearful dog for being calm and confident around the stimuli that usually makes it fearful. Building positive associations with the thing that makes the dog fearful is the way to go for me. I love prong collars and choke collars (E-collars, not so much but I do use one and I will use them if I see the situation calls for it) but I would never use them on a fearful dog. Simply because using those tools on a fearful dog will basically just make the dog crap itself and we will get nowhere. If there is a dog that is afraid of bicycles and I give it a snap/ shock every time it sees a bike then it will associate bikes with discomfort and become even more fearful of bikes than it was before. However if I bring the dog near a bike and correct it each time it does something undesirable (Running, crying, doing that whole tantrum routine) but reward it when it calms down or shows confidence towards the bike (Sniffing the bike, Laying next to the bike, Peeing on the bike etc) then the dog will associate being confident/calm near bicycles as a good thing and won't feel the need to freak out when he sees a bike

    The reason I use bicycles and Mastiffs in this example is because I fostered a dog, a 150lb Mastifff mix, that was terrified of bicycles and any thing else with wheels. I kept him for about 4 months and by the time he left I could ride my bike/skateboard with him by my side and I could tie him to a Mclaren stroller and push a doll in it with no issue. I am not a trainer, nor do I claim to be one, but I see what works over what doesn't and go for what works. No, this dog was not the first fearful dog I have fostered. I had a Pit Bull that was afraid of circular objects. I did the same things with her as I did with the mastiff and the bikes and it worked. It also worked on the Maltese mix that was afraid of other dogs and the GSD mix that was afraid of storm drains and city buses.

    Edit: I would also like to add something. I do agree with Greek. Fear is genetic and it will never be cured but, like the dog aggression in a Pit Bull, it can be controlled/managed if you have the patience, time, and will to try to control/manage it.

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  • ?
    Lv 4
    4 years ago

    Dog training is always quite a trial for puppy owners, however it isn't as hard as it seems. Learn here http://onlinedogtraining.enle.info/?W6WZ

    First I suggest that you use a crate which the puppy can't see through. A plastic crate is great for crate training as it gives puppies a feeling of comfort in a den-like atmosphere.

    Second, it is best for you to make sure that your puppy is tired before you put her into a crate. Exercise and play with her until she is well worn out before you put her into the crate. Most tired puppies would just whine for a while and then settle down and go to sleep.

    Third, make sure that the crate is comfortable for the puppy. Putting her favorite toy, bedding, or even a shirt with your scent helps young puppies a lot.

    Fourth, treat going to the crate as a relaxing experience. After exercising and playing with her, just say, "Go crate." Lead her to the crate, saying cheerfully but gently, "Go crate," all the time. Then gently encourage her to go into the crate of her own accord. Wait till she's fully inside, then shut the door quietly. Don't make a fuss. Don't excite her. Just let the whole process be simple and calm.

    If she whines, you should ignore it, but if she persists, you can try to stop it by shaking a can of stones, banging on the table, or even bringing up the volume of the radio. This isn't cruel - it is just teaching her that her whining brings these unpleasant sounds to her. Just remember that you should stop the punishment as soon as she stops whining.

    And if she doesn't whine in just half a minute, take her out of the crate quietly, wait for a few seconds, and then praise her until her tail wags.

    Just remember, crate training is a process which requires patience and time.

    And don't keep your puppy crated for too long otherwise she might go inside the crate!

  • Anonymous
    9 years ago

    Firstly, i agree with the first 2. If people actually want to bother with a dog like that, then that is the painfully slow way to go about things

    The last lot, however, i don't agree with.

    "If it shows concern, pick it up or get down on your knees, pet and calm it down. Show it that there is nothing to be afraid of"

    I think anyone knows that is not the way you're supposed to go about it. I've seen it for myself, when there was a thunderstorm. My dog was nearly having a heart attack and my sister, thinking she was helping, starts to smother him with "reassurance". My dog was a lot worse with that, than when i just completely ignore him.

    Although i have to say, i really wouldn't have the patience with a dog like that. My dog gets on my nerves enough on fireworks night, and he's panting away, trying to hide in corners, shaking. Sorry, but the only way to describe his behaviour when he's like that is pathetic. Thank god fireworks are only a few times a year!

    Getting a puppy that's like that all the time? No way. I'm not going to spend hundreds on a dog that's "broken"

    I think that is mt TD personal best! lol

  • Anonymous
    9 years ago

    I would euthanize. I only want working dogs, so ANY flaw in the temperament means immediate death.

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