how should I change my fuel pump. 10pts!!?

Mr. W.,

I'm not sure those are valid indications of a fuel pump problem, measuring the pressure is probably the best way to do it.

If you can't find someone to measure it for free AutoZone etc. may loan you the tester for a down payment that you get back.

I'm pasting a link to someone asking how to do the replacing in a truck forum. After reading through the link you should consider registering. It's free and easy and once you get the hang of finding your own forum (the overall site is for all trucks but there are individual subgroups which is what this link points you to).

Once you register you can search for similar problems to yours. If you can't find any, then you can post your symptoms in the group and you'll get some answers pretty quick I suspect (at least one of them will be to check your fuel pump pressure....).

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/silverado-fullsize...

The bottom line is don't cut a hole because then you'll be welding above the gas tank - not good. Secondly those nuts/bolts on the top of those tanks are a pain to get off. I have snapped more than one, so you end up getting up close and personal with that gas tank, trust me.

The suggestion will be to just break off the old bed bolts and remove the bed and put in new stainless bolts when your are done, but then you may never need to take it off again for 10 years anyway.

So that is why you want to be sure what your problem is before you go ahead with replacing the fuel pump. I think I just used a NAPA part, don't think there are any bad ones out there but given the trouble it takes to do it, I wouldn't buy the cheapest pump either!

Good luck.

Before you do that have the fuel pump pressure tested. If it tests OK you may have a different issue (clogged fuel line, clogged filter, bad or clogged injectors, etc). If it is the fuel pump you are better off dropping the tank as it would not take much to slip while cutting a hold in the bed and end up hitting the tank.

You do NOT have a BAD FUEL PUMP! Either they WORK or they do NOT WORK! if your car RUNS< then your pump is STILL GOOD! Your issue lies ELS WHERE! Take $20-30 to ANY oil change center and have them Clean your THROTTLE BODY and IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE to showroom clean! ALSO remove adn clean the ERG valve as well! these things get DIRTY from the use of CHEAP WAX BASED oils at oil change time! USE ONLY MOBIL ONE 0W-30 oil and install a set of BOSCH IRIDIUM or FUSION plugs to get 20% MORE POWER and ECONOMY while LOWERING emissions! The AC DELCO plugs are NOT even included in plug testing any more! POWER WASH engine with GUNK orange so the engine will dissipate heat EVENLY! and the engine metals can BREATH! Once you install the BOSCH plugs, you will be AMAZED at all the power that has been HIDDEN from you!. >>>FUEL INJECTED cars have TWO fuel lines! one feeds the ENGINE< and the other returns unused fuel BACK to the tank! There is a FILTER aa FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR in between!>>In OTHER words,the fuel is CONSTANTLY being CLEANED UP as it CYCLES back and forth through the filter and into the TANK! CHECK YOUR FPR!

Have you thought about changing out the fuel filter before doing something like this. I had a 94 GMC 1500 (basically the same truck) with similar problems as yours. I replaced the fuel filter and that fixed the problem. I would buy the repair manual and see how they do it there. It might even give you another idea on how to fix it.

ur looking for trouble cutting the bed while tank is in there, drop the tank,auto zone is ok, been in mine now 7 years, cut an access hole in the bed when tank is out, i did that to my ranger, had to do some work to it but i bolted and plate in the bed to get to it again if i had to. all trucks are different

IF YOUR NOT GOING TO DO THE JOB RIGHT THAN TAKE IT TO SOMEONE WHO WILL. YOU COULD BLOW YOURSELF UP AND THEN HOW WOULD YOU FIX IT.