is this drum kit in good condition?

Looks fine from that perspective, but you need to check for these things up close:

-Circular, uniform bearing edge.

The bearing edge is the groove on the end of each drum where the wood (or metal) of the drum shell meets the head. This bearing edge should be uniform, shouldn't have any dents, or be worn down. Otherwise, it ruins the sound and becomes much harder to tune. Also, make sure the bearing edge is flat. Test it by placing the drum on a flat surface (not too hard so as to avoid scratching the bearing edge) and trying to rock the drum back and forth.

-Circular uniform shell

Make sure that drum is perfectly circular and not oval. Do this by measuring the diameter of each drum from multiple angles.

-Good wrap

A wrap is the artwork that's glued onto the drum. Some scuff marks are tolerable, but make sure that the wrap still sticks to the drums and is uniform around the bearing edge.

The rest of the things I mention fall more along the line of how much you want to spend on improving the drum kit after you buy it.

-Snare strainer, snare wire. The snare strainer and snare wire are the components of the snare that give it the "snare" sound. They're what you won't find on the tom or bass drums. Both are replaceable, but it can be a bit of pain.

-Hardware: cymbal stands, hihat stand, snare stand, snare stand, drum throne (seat). Check the stability of all of these things. Make a note of each one that isn't steady and keep in mind you may need to replace it. I see that the hardware is single-braced. Double-braced hardware is usually more sturdy. It's a not deal-breaker but it may help you negotiate price.

-Heads: Drum heads are considered "consumable". One day or another you'll have to replace them. Also, the drum heads might not be suited to your style/sound preference. Bottom line is: Don't sweat about having to replace heads. Heads range from $20-100 based on size and type (snare and bass are usually the most expensive). A good set of well-tuned heads can make many ordinary drum kits sound nice.

-Rims/hoops: These are the metal (and on high-end kits wooden) rings that hold the drum heads in place. Make sure that they, like the bearing edge, are flat and uniformly circular. Ask if they are cast and stamped hoops, and if the guy doesn't know, assume stamped. Cast hoops are usually sturdier and less liable to bending.

Cymbals: Test these for yourself. Make sure there aren't any dents or holes in the cymbal. There isn't much you can do to improve the quality of cymbal, so don't be afraid to exclude it from the deal if you don't like the way they sound. Cymbals cost about $100 each (remember, the Hihat has 2), but diminish in value soon after purchase. The ones in the picture porbably aren't worth more than $40

To summarize

MAKE SURE: the drums have uniform, undented, perfectly circular bearing edges and that the wraps meet the edge uniformly.

PREFERABLY: the hardware is sturdy and the snare strainer works fine.

OPTIONAL: good heads on the drum

TREAT SEPARATELY: cymbals

Ethan, you've got some good answers.

When buying a kit you need to inspect it in person. it might look fine in a photo but I have gone and looked at kits that looked pristine in a photo only to show up and the owner stored it in cases in a wet basement or in an attic with extreme cold and heat swings. I've seen shells cracked and/or de-laminating. You can't see all of this in a photo. The hardware on the drums isn't all that difficult to clean up but you at least want to make sure it's all there.

Plus, you want to make sure you like the sound of the kit. All kits have different sounds and you want to make sure it suits your taste and the style of music you play. I have 3 different kits and they are all for different applications based on the venue I am playing or the particular band I'm playing with.

I'm a very big fan of buying used. But, you need to send some time looking. some guys take care of their gear and some don't. You're better off spending a bit more money on a nicer kit from someone that clearly took care of it.

I will also admit that Tama are one of the kits I can honestly say I've never played, owned and do not know much about. I've spent the majority of my time with Ludwig, Yamaha and Pork Pie.

Good luck and go see it for yourself!!

Based on just that picture, it looks fine. But I'd need to see pictures of heads (the one on the left looks a bit worn), make sure every bolt and stuff is there, and make sure there's no wobbly toms that are screwed up. And if the hi-hat's included, I'd need to make sure the pedal is alright, cause I've had em where the pedal is screwed up too.

Look fine to me.