how often should I change my timing belt..?

You're in luck - your car has a timing CHAIN, not a belt, and should never need replacing.

The timing belt should be changed every 100,000 miles and would indefinitely need a gasket set and might need the tensioner. If the original belt broke after the original owners neglected some maintaince chores as the engine might be an interference type as the timing belt broke as the valves hung open as the collision with the pistons could cause catastrophic engine damage and presented a huge bill for replacing the engine.

Amazing - somebody gave Country Boy a thumbs down because he was right (and so is James M). Your 2.2L Ion engine has a timing chain, not a belt. Everybody else is swinging at shadows in the dark.

How can you be sure? Look at the cover on the end of the engine where the serpentine belt is.If it is plastic you have a belt and the plastic cover is there to keep oil out. If it is metal you have a chain and the cover is there to keep oil in, something a plastic cover can't do. Or you can do what I did... look in the source for belts and hoses for your car. If Gates doesn't sell a timing belt for it you can be sure it is because there is no timing belt. It's a dirty bit o'cheatin' but it is very reliable.

EDIT - your question about the timing cover gasket set seals it: timing belts do not have timing cover gaskets sets for the same reasons covered in the last paragraph.

How to Change a Timing Belt

Generally timing belt problems present themselves with no warning. There is no squeak that lets you know it is time. If your car ran fine and then the motor stopped suddenly with a clunk and won't restart, it is likely your timing belt.

Timing belts are extremely difficult to successfully change unless you have experience in the area. The timing on the engine must be set exactly, or (unless non interference engine is present) the valves and the pistons would collide, which would cause call for very expensive engine repair.

EditSteps

1Disconnect the negative battery cable. Ensure you have your radio security code (if equipped) any preset radio stations and the time on a piece of paper to allow for quick resetting once repairs are made.)

Ad

2Remove the distributor cap, if so equipped. Most modern cars are "distributorless" electronic ignition types. They will have a cam (and crankshaft) position sensor instead. The important thing is to be able to determine "TDC" (Top Dead Center) on the #1 cylinder - techniques usually require consultation of the engine repair manual which all differs by model.

3Using a wrench or socket on the crankshaft bolt rotate the engine until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the 0° mark on the timing scale (This step assumes the timing belt is still intact). Under any circumstances do not do this on interference engines unless you are sure the belt is still in-tact. If you have not already bent your valves with a broken timing belt, you will likely do so if you spin the crankshaft without the camshaft spinning.

4Verify the distributor rotor is aligned with the index mark on the distributor housing indicating the rotor is in position to fire the number one cylinder. If not, rotate the engine another full turn. (whether a 4 cylinder, V6, V8 or V12 engines - all things happen in the same order in the "4-stroke" engine, see above comment about TDC.)

5Remove any components or accessory drive belts that interfere with removing the timing belt cover. This varies by model; consult your service manual to determine which parts need to be removed from your vehicle. (This step involves removal of the crankshaft pulley, which may require a "pulley puller". See also comment below on special tools.)

6Remove the bolts or screws holding the timing cover in place, and lift the cover off the engine. Some engines have a two-piece timing cover.

7Check for proper alignment of the crank and camshaft timing marks. NOTE: Many engines have a dot or index line on the pulleys and/or sprockets that must be lined up with corresponding marks on the block, cylinder head, or accessory shaft. On some engines, the index mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the parting line of the first camshaft-bearing tower.

This is very important, if you're replacing a timing belt that has broken. Consult your service manual for the correct alignment procedure for your vehicle and correct any misalignment before installing the new timing belt. (See comment above on TDC.)

8Check carefully the area around the belt for signs of oil leakage from the cam and crank seals, valve cover and oil pan. Check for coolant leaks from the water pump and water pump by-pass hose. Leaks must be repaired before the new belt is installed.

9Loosen the timing belt tensioner.

NOTE: Some vehicles may require a special tool to reach tensioner mounting bolts hidden by components such as motor mounts. Some engines require a special tool to release a spring-loaded timing belt tensioner. However, most engines have a spring-loaded tensioner that can be operated using common sockets and wrenches (some require a male hex wrench/Allen wrench) in the following manner.

10Loosen the mounting bolt(s) holding the belt tensioner but do not remove it.

11Pivot the spring loaded tensioner away from the belt and then retighten the mounting bolt(s)to hold the tensioner in the loose position.

12Examine the tensioner pulley for damage such as dents or cracks.

13Spin the tensioner pulley and listen for a rattle or humming noise that would indicate loose or worn bearings. Uneven wear at the rear of the old timing belt could indicate a misalignment between the tension pulley and timing belt due to worn bearings. If any indications of damage or worn bearings are found, replace the tensioner pulley. Caution: The permanently lubricated tensioner pulley bearing can become dry, worn, loose, broken or can freeze up; so the best practice is to replace it, if it's not new!

14With the tension on the timing belt relieved, the belt should slide easily off the sprockets. Timing belts that have been used for a long time may stick in the pulley grooves and require some gentle prying with a screwdriver to release.

15When re-assembling, pay special attention to "torquing" specs on the engine manual, particularly the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt which usually has a very high torque spec.

16If equipped with a hydraulic timing belt tensioner, removal may be required to compress the piston back into the cylinder. Place into a vise and compress until holes line up to allow the insertion of a holding pin. Once the pin is in place the tensioner can be re-installed.

You might want to check out this video how to do it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAuqOAp72m0

Your motor has a timing CHAIN not a belt. No need to worry.

For you it would be right now. Then every 60,000 miles or what ever the owners manual calls for.

owners manual states recommended replacement times....I would say to replace while you have it off and its always good to have a spare incase you get a rip or tear regardless...really its personal preference unless your getting leaks!

Every 50,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first.