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Has anyone experienced a bad motorcycle voltage regulator right out of the box?

Installed new voltage regulator. Never powered up the bike after install. Regulator is disconnected from the stator. Bike is showing 12.5v to the frame. Disconnected the regulator cable from the breaker and the short is gone.

Update:

I would like to say thank you to some of you that took the time out of your day to answer my question.

Let me add some more details....

1. Please read my above statements.

2. The negative cable from my battery to the frame is disconnected.

3. 3 cables running from battery positive terminal. 1 going to starter. 1 going to 30amp breaker. 1 going to show LED lights.

The 30 amp breaker has the battery cable and regulator cable on one pole. Key switch cable on the other.

4. Multimeter negative lead is on battery negative terminal. Multimeter positive lead is on the frame.

5. Key is off. Multimeter is showing ~12.5V. Yes I know my battery is down a little

6. Remove 1 cable from battery positive terminal at a time until it has been narrowed down. The one going/coming from the breaker.

7. Removed each fuse...no change on multimeter.

8. Made sure I didnt have an engage hand/forward control switch...no change on the multimeter.

9. Disconnected key switch....no change on multimeter.

10. Discon

Update 2:

10. Disconnected voltage regulator from circuit breaker...0.0vdc now on multimeter.

Finally...Please look up the definition of an open circuit and short circuit.

Update 3:

I am troubleshooting for a short. My battery is draining overnight. I have already checked the stator and it is fine.

9 Answers

Relevance
  • 7 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    I think your fault finding skills needs a lot of improvement. 12.5V to frame is not a short, it is an open circuit and shows that your battery is down a tiny bit.

    Breaker? There are no circuit breakers on motorbikes.

    Just put the whole thing back together and try to start the bike.

    I know what a short circuit and open circuit are. Been an electrician for 30 years.

    Why don't you look up the definition of FUSE?

  • Kurt T
    Lv 4
    7 years ago

    You have a normal reading.you are completing the circuit with your multimeter as the battery ground wire. You will most likely get the same reading if you turn the led lights on.and leave that wire on the positive terminal.To check the charging system: with the stator disconnected check both stator wires for continuity to ground should be zero. with the meter set to AC you should get a reading that changes according to engine speed. check both stator wires on the regulator for continuity to ground,they should also read zero. With the regulator hooked up ,and the engine running meter on DC you should get a reading above battery battery voltage and below 14.8. it should rise with engine speed,but not above 14.8. A lot of times the 'bat' wire from the circuit breaker to the regulator gets chafed or broken. Some folks will splice this wire ,rather then reroute a new one,and still have the same problem.Check the wire close at grommets and wire ties,or anywhere it can rub.once in a while, the circuit breaker goes bad,opening under-load and not allowing the battery to charge completely.I have gotten bad regulators in the past,usually chrome aftermarket ones.

    Source(s): 40+ years being frustrated by motorcycle gremlins
  • Dave
    Lv 4
    7 years ago

    Ok, first question, digital multimeter? If so, don't use it, get a cheapest possible analogue (moving needle)meter, for tthis reason: a digital has an input impedance up in the millions of.Ohms, the slightest leakage will look like a short when measuring the way you are, a CHEAP analogue meter will be a few thousand Ohms, and won't even see a voltage - which is what you need.

    Redo your tests with a cheap meter, all you'll see in the penultimate stage (only regulator connected) is the very small leakage through the regulator - probably only a few milli- or micro-amps, probably not.enough to push an analogue meter's needle, but enough (across several megohms) to read most of the battery voltage.

    Does the battery discharge rapidly with the connections all in place, or are you fretting needlessly? Does it charge from the alternator?

    Source(s): Once was.a motor electrician, worked up to satellite technician (USAF) still do bike and other machine electrics/electronics, mostly for fun. Electronic Engineering tickets in most disciplines.
  • Jon
    Lv 6
    7 years ago

    What? Plug it in. Make sure it has a clean ground at the regulator/rectifier, make sure the lead wire is at the positive side of the battery(post or breaker). Start the bike numbers at battery VDC should be between 12.5-14.7 @ 2000rpm. Try again.

    You did something wrong

  • ?
    Lv 6
    7 years ago

    The voltage should more than 13.5V. If the regulator disconnected, the motorcycle loses the charging system and engine stops after 2 or 3 days.

    Source(s): Believe it or not
  • ?
    Lv 7
    7 years ago

    It can be, but most likely there is something else wrong. Check everything again. also check the resistance between your new on and old one for comparison purposes.

  • 7 years ago

    You can get bad parts when sold new.

  • Dan H
    Lv 7
    7 years ago

    Yes, it happens sometimes.

  • 7 years ago

    it can happen exchange it

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