car starter problem 3000gt?

Do you have the anti-theft system? If so, you may have a problem with that system or other issues related to the starting circuit. Anti-theft system and manual trans models of that year 3000 GT have a relay in the starter circuits. If so equipped, do you hear the starter relay click when the key is turned to Start position? If not, then the relay ground path may be bad or power paths for coil side and contact side of relay are bad... or bad relay. Swap in a new relay or similar one from another circuit and see if it works...if still not working, then you'll need to do some testing to see where power or ground are not getting supplied to the starter/starting circuit from ignition switch/fuses or ground path wiring/devices.

For the anti-theft system starting circuit, it has two fuse sources for power ...the 30 amp fusible link # 4 for the contact side of Ignition switch/relay and fuse 19 ...10 amp... for the coil side of the relay. The coil side needs to energize to close the contacts side.The coil side circuit of the relay also runs through the key reminder switch in steering column/ignition cylinder area (switch is closed when key is in ignition) and the ground path of the relay contact side grounds via the ETACS anti-theft unit. So check that fuse/key reminder switch circuit if you get no power to the relay on the coil side and check ground path to ETACS . If you do not get ground at the relay coil side, then the ETACs may be faulty or tripped. If the bulb in the dash that signals an Anti-theft system issue is burned out, you may not get a warning that it has a problem.

The circuit for the contact side of the relay comes from the 30 amp fusible link #4 through the ignition switch to the relay contact side and then through the Neutral Safety switch and onto the starter...black /red trigger wire. Test for power at ignition switch, relay and NS switch if needed.

For a non anti-theft system vehicle, there is no starter relay for Auto Trans models...power just comes from fuse to ignition (white wire)....power out from ignition switch (black/yellow wire at switch) through the NS switch to the starter...black/red wire.

Adjust NS switch if needed.

Wiring diagrams...

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/searches?car_uuid=120507...

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/searches?car_uuid=120507...

That is the way starters are jumped. One end of a jumper wire is connected to the trigger terminal of the starter and with key ON, you touch the other end of the jumper wire briefly to the positive terminal of the battery. If the engine cranks (and starts), there is an issue with the ignition switch, ignition fuse, start relay, park/neutral switch or the wiring to the start system.

Get a wiring diagram for the start circuit on your car. Find the start relay in the fuse box and swap it with similar size relay or simply replace it. Try to start. Car starts, start relay is bad. No joy get a test light and relay tester. Check for load power, trigger power and trigger ground at the relay with key on Start. No load power, check the ignition fuse and the wiring from the relay to the fuse. No trigger power, check the ignition switch and the park neutral switch (if the park neutral switch is on the trigger power circuit). No trigger ground, check the ground wire and the ground connection (ECU might provide the trigger ground).

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56810-Relay-Test-Jump...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY4TzfacFkI

newer vehicles are not like those in the "old days" that were easy to diagnose...............your choices are to get a repair manual or have a shop look at it

To test the starter on the bench you hook the negative jump pack cable to the starter housing by a bolt hole. Then you hook the positive cable to the bolt on the solenoid. Then you jump the small terminal to the positive cable, If the starter motor works it's time to try to turn the crankshaft of the motor clockwise using a breaker bar and socket. Did the timing belt jump or break and lock the motor up when the valves hit the pistons?

When the key is turned to the start position do you have power at the small trigger wire on the solenoid? Did you adjust the range switch/neutral safety switch properly when you installed it? If the starter motor works when mounted in the motor and you jump the trigger wire to the positive battery cable you are not getting power to the trigger wire. Perhaps you don't have power coming out of the ignition switch on the terminal that should only have power when the key is held in the start position. Use a 12 volt test light. It's not a hard system to diagnose.