2001 Chrysler 300 M, 264,000 miles turns over but will not start. Put new spark plugs in and new camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor.?

If the CEL was not lit the crank and cam sensors were not bad.

The fuel system is not monitored by the CEL. What's the fuel pressure?

Try shooting some starting fluid into the throttle body and see if it starts for a few seconds. If it does you are not getting gas.

The basic steps are to check for good fuel delivery/pressure, good spark and proper timing and airflow as well. A large vacuum leak can also prevent starting...check all vacuum hoses for leaks ...broken ,split ,cracked ,etc.. The IAC valve on the throttle body may also be clogged or defective and not allowing proper airflow past the closed throttle when starting. Try starting as usual but hold down the gas pedal a bit which adds some extra air into the engine...if it starts or tries to start better, then you may have a bad or clogged IAC...clean or replace it.

Next step is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body or a vacuum port on the engine and then try starting...if it starts and runs briefly, that shows that you have a fuel delivery issue. Could be a bad/weak fuel pump, clogged filter, blown fuse , bad pump relay, etc..You'd have to further test the fuel system with a pressure gauge to pinpoint the issue...parts stores rent them. Check for a blown fuse first as that's the easiest thing to do. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on briefly in the tank when the key is turned ON.. If not, then check for a blown fuse or bad pump relay. The pump should turn on for several seconds when the key is tuned on to prime the fuel system pressure and then shuts off until the engine starts and then the PCM turns it on again..

If the engine still won't start on carb spray, then you may have ignition/spark issues. Use a spark tester...sold at parts stores, etc... to see if you're getting good spark at the plug wires when cranking. If not, then it could be various issues such as bad coils, bad ignition module, crank/cam sensor circuit issues, blown fuses, bad PCM, etc...Once again, check for bad fuses first.

If you don't get any spark or injector pulses when cranking, that is usually due to bad crank/cam sensors or defects in the related circuits. Check for loose or corroded wiring/connections. Parts stores sell or rent Noid lights to check for injector pulses.

So basically, check for any bad/blown fuses first before testing other issues.If you need further testing, pickup a repair manual for your model or check some websites on how to test various systems on the car.

Gee, got an OBDII code reader? Or will you just replace the fuel pump, injectors, transmission, tires next.

how's the fuel pressure

Did you put in these new parts and then it would not start

or

Did it not start, and then you replaced these parts ??

If the former, then any one of those could be the problem

If the latter, just keep throwing money at it, You may get lucky

Before you waste any more money, pull the OBD2 trouble codes to see what the real problem is.

Diagnose in steps. Spray starter fluid in the air intake, to see if it is getting enough gas. Etc.

Spray starting fluid on the intake and try to start. Car starts, check fuel pressure with a gauge while cranking (key on Start). Pressure is low or zero, check for a bad fuel pump. Car does not start, check for spark with a spark meter while cranking. No spark, check for a bad coil. Check for compression with a gauge. Compression is low, junk the car or put a new engine on it.