Bled Motorcycle Front Brake and now Dragging?

"Spongy" usually means water turning to vapor when brakes hot. Sometimes, air.  When U bled them, the firmness came back and the stiff O rings to calipers were apparent.

 Rebuild  caliper; or at least grease the O rings;  flush entire brake out with fresh Synthetic DOT 4 or better,  bleed.. 

  My  rear brake dragged, I didn't realize it until I went thru entire system.  MC brakes are easy to rebuild/bleed.

Edit: On some bikes, , you need to  "reverse bleed", that is, get a 50 ml syringe, suck it fulla fresh fluid, , attach it to nipple with hose, open nip,  hold  plunger UP so bubbles aren't reintroduced, push to fill  system and force air out. Dont overflow the reservoir. Close nip, pump lever  a few times until no bubbles. Check brake's  feel.

Edit:   SpaceJ, yes, I know. I had an innocent query similar to yours; I was treated like a 12 year old. I am 64; I've fixed  my  'sickles and cages since 1978. One said: "don't grease the rotors".....like, I  Would? I have been maintaining my own since before that Kid was born...

if bike only has 1300 km on it it is a warrantee issue - take it back to the dealer

you screwed up , something as simple as bleeding the brakes , what a fool , not telling you what is wronge , rather you take it to a bike shop and pay to have it fixed ..lol

he put air in the system and hasnt bled it properly .. lol .. thinks thats the funniest thing i heard in 40 years of motorcyling ..

What part of Screwed It Up do you not understand?    You should understand you don't know what the hell you are doing.  Then you should understand you need to take it to someone who does know what the hell they're doing.

Calipers drag a bit.  It should not be noticeable when pushing the bike.  If the wheel is up in the air you can hear the scuffing because the pads are that close to the disc.  That is normal. That is why you can stop with just using your middle finger on the brake lever.

This is confusing you. It should go down to the bike shop and let the real mechanics work on it when you don't know what the "eff" you are doing. 1300km is squat for the bike.  Sorry, but sometimes it is harder than you think.  You seem not knowledgeable about this thing.

When servicing brakes you should leave it to the professionals if you're not competent. Your calipers need a rebuild, pistons greased, and copper grease on the BACK or the pads to prevent squealing. 

It purpose of bleeding braked is to extract the air, not put it back!

Betcha ain't never rebuilt dem calipers. Gitcha a rebuild kit, which is the piston seals, take it apart, clean it, check for scuffed pistons, and LUBRICATE the new seals and pistons with the lubricant whut comes with the rebuild kit. Helps to put a SMALL amount of disk brake lube on the back (caliper) sides of the pads. Didja know them seals is whut RETRACTS dem pistons, 'cuz thar ain't no springs thar whut kin do it? Hydraulics 101, dude.

Check this out - maybe the dealer will service the MC and sort it out if your bike is affected by the recall.

https://oemdtc.com/219/front-brake-master-cylinder... do full bleed, pump  up the brakes hold pressure and bleed the caliper - close it before the brake handle bottoms. Repeat on other side caliper until no bubbles come out. IF that doesn't fix the problem the residual check valve in the MC is likely faulty.

You do not want any air in the fluid. There is a membrane in the master cylinder that expands and contracts as you apply the brakes, that is what gives you "feel" at the lever and that relies on an amount of air but it is not air in the fluid.

I suspect your problems are more likely to be at the pistons and guide rods in the caliper, it probably needs a good clean or, better, a strip and service. 

Failing that it could be a piston in the master cylinder.

Did you know that there has been a recall on Superdukes because of the brake master cylinder?

https://car-recalls.co.uk/recall/ktm-1290-superduk...

Caliper is likely shot.  Check if pistons are retracting completely when brake lever is released.  If they are not, clean pistons or replace them, clean piston cavity and install new seals.  Or just replace the caliper.

You can try bleeding the master cylinder on the bench, reinstall master cylinder and bleed the whole system again.  When bleeding, press brake lever and hold, open bleeder valve and close bleeder valve.  Do NOT pump brakes when bleeder valve is open.

You do not want air back in the cylinder.  Did you make sure to top off your reservoir when you bled them?  If they are full, it sounds like a caliper issue.  The first question you should ask though is how you got air in the system to being with.  That should not be possible if the reservoir is topped off unless the system is leaking somewhere.

I once thought that I had a bad caliper because it was slow to release.  It ended up being a bad brake line flex hose.  It looked good on the outside, but a rubber flap formed on the inside of the hose acting like a flap valve.

It could also be a bad master cylinder or brake caliper too.