rikerlock

When I export the document to a cloud Dropbox, when received on the computer it's all dark and basically doesn't work. How can I send a document to a computer, edit it, then return for use on ipad? I don't understand how the Microsoft Word app isn't easily compatible with Word on a computer? Do I need to purchase something for it work?

I have been locked out of it because they want 'real I.d' which is a complete joke. It's like a virus running through every system, it's so bloody hard to delete an account it's unreal. I can't login to follow links to 'request' a deletion, wtf, request? How do I contact Facebook without logging into my account?

Im furious, something which should so be so simple is actually barred, I can't contact any kind of forum, or customer services, because the only way to do that is to be able to login!!!

I ve got a bit battered pine table. I want to spruce it up but not spend lots of time and money doing it, I m not looking for a perfect finish. It seems a lot of these waxes/varnishes require some sort of sanding sealer or other preparation. What product is an easy all in buff it on, let it dry and done?

I have started a part time job as a carer, working from home to home in my own vehicle. The company says they only pay for the time of the appointments and not travel time. For example, I can leave at 5pm and return home at 10pm. I do four half hour appointments, they pay me only for 2 hours work plus a bit for mileage which doesn t cover true cost as they say a gap of 2 hours in a day means the first call of the day system starts again. I understand the first call of the day and the travelling home is unpaid as with any job, but they use this two hour or more gap to get out of paying mileage between morning to evening appointments. So excluding first commute and end of day commute, Ive been working for four and a half hours and only get paid for two. What legislation do I quote to put them to rights? My understanding is I should be paid 6.50 x4 and a half, not just not 2 hours which is a joke on its own, but especially when you consider the wear and tear to my vehicle and the mileage which is mot fully compensated..

It keeps breaking down, despite having new mot etc, I bought it on my credit card. Am I covered and on what basis can I reasonably demand the dealer takes it back? If at all, or expect money back for repairs..?

Bit of a long story. Its a 1.8, 600 model, 2003. I bought it off a lying garage scumbag, and seem doomed beyond

doomage!

Had it about a week and a half, all fine then noticed it wouldn't start until after 3 or four try's. Took it to mechanic, he said glow plugs come back tomorrow. The next day, broke down 3 times on way to him, he came and towed me to garage. After pulling van apart to discover no extra fuel pump under fuel tank, changed the fuel filter and presto all worked nicely. Changed the oil filter, air filter, and oil change as all manky as anything. That was yesterday, been driving it about today no problems. Then this evening, the engine starts, then after about 4 seconds cuts out with both the engine and battery light coming on. I can start it every time but cuts out the same. I don't get it, I'd been driving it for about thirty miles around town and no problems, and now this! I'll try charging the battery, but is it a case of getting Citroen to reset everything or does this all point to a more serious, drive my van into garage window scenario?? Didn't change glow plugs, he explained about waiting to turn ignition on diesels and ever since it starts fine..

Wi-fi is bit crap, id like to connect tablet with cable for decent signal strength but cant find what to get. Ideally to ps3 as this has ethernet connection, or through laptop which picks up wi-fi really well.. or a splitter for internet connection, but cant find one capable of having two devices both online at same time? Ideally 2 or 3m long for mobility, but I guess these tech guys assume wi-fi works, idiots

I'm now returning my second tablet, both brands said all the right things and had all the hardware. One was plastic like and was useless, freezing up and going nuts by itself. The second one, a Hannspree, was very good except the signal to pick up Wi-Fi was crap. I only want a device to browse the internet, and watch You tube etc. Without taking a minute for the page to load or just stop loading altogether! My internet is good, my laptop picks up Wi-Fi very well as do other devices in the same room. (not used at the same time). I don't care about the video, or the camera, memory capacity, purely for internet browsing only. I'm at a loss with all these devices with different specs/models/versions.

So I happily go for one of these that look the part. Ideally as big a screen as possible, an Ipad 1, Samsung Galaxy, or Nexus 7. All say the same thing, except the nexus says it uses 'dual band wi-fi', I assume this is what I need for fast internet. I realise these devices aren't as fast as a proper computer, but shouldn't be so slow to constantly be wanting to throw it against the wall! Please advice.

I know very little of computer specs, I have the most basic phone going and am happy with it. My laptop I'm sick off popups etc and I'm already using an old monitor to see the screen, as punched it a few times after many frustrating sessions!

All I want is a tablet device, preferably with a 9-10 inch screen, that is fairly decent and will be used for internet browsing only, that connects to the router wirelessly. A device that is not complex and won't break or cause me trouble, has apps that allows to watch streaming films. Price range no more than £130, preferably cheaper... Any ideas? No need to write an essay reply, tech jargon will be lost on me. I've seen the expensive ones, but I don't really need a premium tablet at all. I just want something that is half decent and isn't crap, at a reasonable price..

Whilst visiting Bristol (I'm from London) I received a penalty charge notice for driving in a bus lane. Attached are three photos. I know I was in the area at that time as was lost trying to find places as part of a Scout group trip, I don't know the area at all and there are a lot of lanes around Bristol! From what I can see, I was in a normal lane of traffic which switched to a bus lane. The first photo shows me entering the bus lane, the second shows me clearly drifting out of the lane to leave the bus lane, most likely from realising the change of use from the normal traffic lane I was in! There are no other cars in photo, so I'm not dodging traffic or gaining any advantages on the road. I've simply been driving along, the road changed to a bus lane and been snapped doing so. Its too far away to go check the signage etc, measure markings and so on.

I don't recall ever driving in a bus lane, but accept it is likely that I did as was lost and did lots of lane changing trying to find various exits that day, as went in and out of Bristol several times that day.

However, they sent three photos. Photo 1 - front of car entering the bus lane, photo 2 - about 5-10 metres into bus lane but right side of car touching white lane going towards normal traffic lane, photo 3 shows the left of car but with only normal colour road markings all around, and two white road markings alongside road of which none are visible in other pictures. Photo two shows me fully (but leaving) the bus lane. In photo 3 the time is one second behind photo 2 (close up of vehicle) and yet photo three shows me clearly NOT in a bus lane at all. Is it likely the camera is faulty? As if the timings on photos are all correct, its impossible in photo 3 for my car not to be in bus lane, but picture says otherwise. Any links/quotes to use for my defence?

Generally speaking, there are companies who want private drivers to do courier work for them. However you need to pay a one off 'membership fee' to get all their advice paperwork etc. Also pay a direct debit to have access to a live database of jobs. It is really that easy or is it a con? Company called 'Courier Expert'... (UK)

I sometimes have to move things around, or setup ethernet cables on a temp basis for a few days in one location then remove later. After some time, however careful I am, eventually the cable gets trapped under a door or something and gets squashed. You get a flat section of cable. Although still works, is a bit suspicious. My cable used for my ps3 has several kinks in it, and since then have had a few offline incidents that didn't occur before...

Is there a particular cable I could get that is more resilent like a normal electric cable, or is there a product I can wrap around the cable to further protect it - bearing in mind it has to be moved from time to time..

When looking for a new ethernet cable, I want the best, and one where the ends don't break off! Any suggestions?

I've researched how this is possible, and only if achieved playing the game on original difficulty. Once you have banked money and withdraw it, say I withdraw £20k and die, do I lose that forever or is the money there to use next time again? (without replacing it)

Also, the stored weapon, I assume only one single weapon can be stored? Can this be any weapon you can store or does it specifically have to be a pack-a-punched weapon to count? Also the same story as the money from the bank, if I withdraw the weapon from the fridge and die, is it lost forever or will it still be stored in the fridge to use in the next game?

I'm at the point of giving up with the whole saga! Complete waste of time so far... I've spent hours messing around with cables in every slot available in every combination, resetting stuff etc, playing with settings on both tv and laptop and still no sound through tv!! All forums say "well it should just work", plug it in and presto. But no...

I have a Samsung LCD tv, model no LE32C450, and a Dell laptop using Windows 7. No HDMI connection on laptop.

The tv has three possibilities for audio in. AV audio in, PC/DVI audio in, or just blank audio in. The connection to the PC/DVI via the phono cable don't seem to secure/fit comfortably into that port, so I'm guessing that is wrong or a different phono cable other than standard is required? I've tried all three anyway and nothing. On the laptop side, I've tried both the port with the headphone symbol and the one next to it with a funky design that makes no sense. Any combo doesn't work, I've enabled/disabled multiple settings from my control panel and settings on tv and still nothing. I gather using an HDMI cable is a lot simpler, but that isn't an option..

Basically I'm peeved as according to literature I should just plug in phono cable in conjunction with the VGA cable and the sound should output to tv. What is it I need to do, step by step?

I use Windows 7, and have used a VGA cable which came from an old computer. It connects the tv and laptop just fine, but how to get the volume coming through tv? I've read I need some some sort of headphone jack cable? Or is it a matter of switching settings on television or from laptop? Or of course do I need an HDMI cable to usb/vga connection? It seems strange to use the vga connection when the pins can't be screwed in either side as there aren't the holes in laptop to do so... Your probably confused as much as I am, how difficult can it be to connect a computer to a tv and control the volume through the tv? Aaaaaaahhh!!!

My laptop only has usb ports, the tv has either an HDMI or usb port. I cannot find a lead that has two matching ends, I'm guessing it has to have two usb ends, or one usb and one HDMI. I'm sure it must exist, what is the name of this lead so I can find one??

I currently use a 50m CAT 5 enhanced unshielded twisted four pairs cable? Something like that.. My speed appears to be good, but the cable is 7 years old now. I've seen multiple cables available and am confused. I'm looking at both a CAT 6 cable and/or a 'shielded' cable. Would a CAT 6 cable, a CAT5E shielded cable or perhaps a CAT 6 shielded cable (if exists) be best suited for a broadband connection upto 100mbs?

I know its roughly 250 something or other, anyone got an exact figure?

Last Xmas, some guy was selling them for £2. I wasn't aware there was a 'special issue', and challenged him on the price. It has always been on a donation basis, you pay whatever you feel like giving. After some debate, the guy pointed out it was a Xmas issue, and refered to a paragraph in the magazine that it was in fact a cost of £2. I reluctantly paid and that was that, though I was pleased I had still helped a charity (seller) so had done a good deed.

This year, some lady wanted £3! Three pounds for a magazine I didn't actually want, but was prepared to donate money to this person. Again a debate, I offered £2 which was refused, and £2.50 was floated about. She said "I'm poor", each copy had cost her £1.50. That was the extent of her English. She scrunched her face up at the offer of £2, so I said forget it and walked off.. Was I wrong, or is a £3 price tag a rip off for a crappy magazine I don't want? Surely selling them at a £1/1.50 they would sell a lot more and make more money??

I heard this song on a you tube video a few years ago, but can't remember the words or what that video was. Its def an Amercian band, probably teenage audience based. I think they were/are a big band in America.. Song can't be more than 5 years old I would imagine.

So, the music video is of a pool party as someones house, the place is heaving with what likes students from high school or something, and the story follows one geeky sort of guy. He is fully dressed, and everyone else is in swimming costumes (or less). Everyone keeps asking him to take his clothes off as he is the odd one out, he gets odd looks etc. Later he meets this girl who is also fully dressed and they hit it off together.. Any ideas?