roadlessgraveled

Everything is open, cap off the injector, fuel pressure relieved. I can twist the injector, but twisting and pulling and pulling and twisting...and it stays stuck. Would heat help? Not torch heat...more like hair dryer heat.

I'd like to test my injectors by applying power to them. Do they operate at 12volts? I'd like to check the spray pattern of each one.

Thanks!

I like Google for searches, but if I'm on yahoo for a homepage, and have Google on the sidebar for searches, and try to do a search in Google...I can enter one letter and the cursor jumps over to the Yahoo search engine. I can't see how to make it stop doing that. Any ideas?

To get the maximum ceiling height, I want to keep the my floor covering as thin as possible with the most R-value. I'd like to glue 1 inch T&G pink foam to the floor, then deck that with T&G plywood or OSB.

Can I just glue the plywood/OSB down to the foam, then install finish flooring (like cork, laminate or tile) or do I have to use drill in or drive in anchors on the plywood/OSB?

My sidewalls are insulated inside with 1" foam, and there is 1 1/2" foam on the exterior of the foundation, too.

I live in Wisconsin...so it's a cold climate.

I'm trying to flush my PS, and I'd rather not use pricey special honda PS fluid to do it. I'm ok with doing a final flush and fill with the honda stuff, but I'm wondering about using something like AT dexron fluid or a solvent of some kind. The pump seems fine, but the PS isn't working. Also...does anyone know when or how the bypass to the cooling tubes on the PS operates? Is it by fluid temp?

And while I'm at it...does a new rack come with the valve body for the PS, or do I need to buy that separately?

I know there is some Honda wizard out there who knows all about this...

I bought some discounted floor tile at a big store ("shave big monkey"?) that I won't name. It was cheap, and "not returnable". I stored it for about 8 months, and then put it down. Looks great, but the edges don't seem to have been coated with glue properly (and is probably why it was discounted, duh!) and some of it keeps popping up. I've tried using heat, some contact cement and some solvents to try to make it stick...but it's not working well. I don't have much spare tile, and would rather find a good way to re-stick it than to start all over. Any suggestions?

Fluid is fine, belt is tight. No noise when turning wheel lock-to-lock...but the power steering is not working. What's the most likely cause? How can I diagnose if it's the pump, rack or whatever?

I've seen the "Adjusted Gross Income" figures in the news, but I'd like to see what their NET income is before "adjustment", and the various sources of that income. Anyone know these things?

I don't use outlook, I use yahoo for email...but if I click on someones email addy at a website, I get presented with an outlook screen. When I try to change the default email in my internet properties, I only have a few choices, and Yahoo isn't one of them. How do I change this so I don't have to do a constant cut/paste of email addresses to use my preferred email program?

I want to remove the top strips and under the windows and blow insulation into the sidewalls. There are no firestops in the walls, so I shouldn't have to take off more than the top and under the windows. How do I do this? The siding is 8" wide.

I'm converting a large collection of LP records to digital. I'd like to erase the worst of the snaps and pops that old records often have. An "automated" process would be nice, but even if I had to seek and destroy individual glitches that would be ok. Seems to me that if I could fill in the snap/pop with what was immediately before and after it, that would work in most cases.

Difficult transition at wall register would be easy to frame and build with wood. This would be over 20' from the furnace, which is not "really" a furnace but an air handler with a hot water coil in it. No flame associated with it, temps below 160F. Total lenghth of transition about 18". Antique register, odd size to it.