BuckarooBanzai

Using a 1300 watt steam press in a 15A circuit, it builds up heat and then shuts down. A second after it shuts down, the outlet goes dead and remains dead for about 3 minutes. It does NOT trip the breaker.

The press is taking about 1140 watts when used in that circuit. I have tried 2 different outlets on that circuit, with the same result. If I use a nearby 20A circuit, the press takes 1330 watts there and performs properly.

I have replaced the 15A breaker in the panel, with no effect. She has used this steampress for about 2 years in the 15A outlet with no problem until yesterday. To make it more complex, I suspected a faulty GFI...but there does not seem to be any GFI in the garage circuit. I think someone has replaced it with a standard outlet, so it can't be a weak GFI. Anyone have any Ideas?

My 2003 S10 quad-cab's emergency brake is sluggish to release, more pronounced when the seasons cool (40s and 50s...not freezing). When I release it at these times, I have to put my foot under the pedal and "help" it to fully release. I have tried silicon spray to the mechanism, but it is of no help. Once the weather gets hotter, the brake fully releases properly when I pull the release.

Any idea what I need to do? Truck only has 40,000 miles on it.

We have a 1988 Acura Legend with only 82,000 miles (we've put on 40,000 of those on it in the last 3 years). Lately, it has started to take several crankings before it starts. Might start on 1st try...might take 5 tries. So far it always starts. No other issues in power, etc.

Car has a new distributor (about 2 years ago). I re-gapped all the spark plugs which looked fine in color but were a little wide. I just replaced the fuel filter, but that didn't improve anything. No other recent work.

Any ideas what to try next? Cranking is strong, and like I said, it runs excellent once it has started.

I have a 12 volt pump (less than 10 amps) that has a single switch to operate it. I would like to add a second switch, in another location. I have been told that inserting a latching relay into the circuit would do the trick. But I am having difficulty trying to find the right one, Some say they need "reverse polarity pulses" to change the on/off state. That doesn't make sense to me, as I just want to pulse a +12 volts to the relay and change the state. Maybe I am looking at the wrong relays?

I have had this Honda Magna for about 2000 miles. Every once in a while, I can let the clutch out, in first gear at a stop, and nothing happens. No friction zone at all. Of course I don't want to rev up the engine for fear that the clutch will decide to engage at some high RPM. Usually, pulling the lever back in and out once or twice seems to bring everything back to normal. This is only at a stop. The transmission IS engaged in first, but letting the clutch out all the way seems to have no effect (except make me afraid that it is all of a sudden going to engage). There is never any issue shifting after getting started, and the clutch does NOT slip. It is adjusted with the proper freeplay. This is a cable-operated clutch (a 1994 Magna 750), so there are no gummy hydraulics involved. What could my problem be? Thanks for any thoughts. It doesn't happen too often, but even once in a while is unnerving for my wife who is now riding it. BTW, the oil and filter are recently changed, but that had no effect on making it occur more or less frequent.

Follow this trail and tell me who made what money. I go to my local grocery store who sells gift cards to Lowe's (among many others).

I buy myself a $200 gift card with a credit card (that actually has a 1% rebate, $2.00), for a specific purchase I plan to make at Lowe's, the store gives me 800 points for having purchased the card. Those 800 points will get me either $8.00 cash from the store, or it will allow me 80 cents a gallon off of up to 35 gallons of gas ($28.00) that the grocery store sells (at the lowest cost in town). Then I take the gift card to Lowe's and make my $200 purchase. I always pay the credit card off when the bill arrives, so there is no one making any interest off of me, BTW.

So what was the motivation for the grocery store to sell me the card, which gets me from $10 to $30 of extra value, simply because I stopped there on the way to Lowe's? While I appreciate the opportunity to get the extra benefits, I don't understand who has made what profit in this process?

I came across a small PCB deigned to mount a single-digit 7-segment LED. The board was about the same size as the LED. It was double-sided so I could solder the 8 wires from one side, then "plug" in the display and solder it from the other side. I think it was commercially made (for a 0.56" LED) and I am looking for another one, and also one for a smaller 0.39" LED (Kingbright SA39-11PBWA/A). I do not know the correct terminology ...whether it is a socket, pcb, module, etc. Can anyone point me to a source? Thanks!

My wife and I both have Ubuntu 12.04 on ASUS netbooks. For some reason, about once a day, her computer chooses to reboot itself while she is typing in a text field. When she types, she types very quickly, so we're thinking that she might be hitting a "hot-key combo" accidentally and causing the reboot. Is there a hot-key combo that reboots (without asking for verification...like Ctrl-Alt-Del)? Any other ideas as to what might be happening? We did not have this problem with Ubuntu 11.10.

Here are the symptoms for my 2003 4.3 l Chevy truck with no power available. It starts and runs fine at idle. Up to about 20 mph, it runs normal. Then when I give it gas to accelerate, it bogs down. Put my foot further down on the floor and I can hear the woosh of air (sounds like the old 4-bbl carbs) but it actually seems to slow down and it starts pinging with any gas pedal pressure at all. There is NO power.

The fuel is not old and comes from a reputable station. In an effort to solve this, I replaced the fuel filter a few days ago. The air filter is also new and clean. The only code I have been able to get is a P0101 for the MAF sensor. I got that twice in about 10 trips to figure out what is happening. Usually, no codes appear.

I took off and cleaned the very clean looking MAF sensor (with the proper CRC fluid), and I tested it properly for both voltage and Hertz. It functions fine. The MAF code clears itself. Plugs and wires are fairly new. As I said, starting and idle are perfect. Catalytic converter doesn't turn red, and besides, there are no codes to indicate a problem there. This truck is a 2003 and has less than 35,000 miles on it. I am at a loss, but I also don't want to put myself at the mercy of someone with no better idea than I just throwing parts and money at it. If you have any ideas, please help! Thank you very much.

My S-10 has about 33,000 miles on it. The FI "spider" was replaced a few months ago after developing a miss and the truck ran great. Now, after just putzing around town for a few months and another 200 miles or so, it has NO power and pings on any elevated road if I give it a bit of gas. Air filter is clean, fuel filter just replaced. The only code I got was one single time struggling up a hill and it was P0101 for the MAF Sensor. I took it out and cleaned it with the proper CRC spray. No change in behavior, but no more codes...even when foot flat on the floor and bogging down incredibly slow.. It continues to start very quickly, it idles fine (with or without A/C on), and at less than say 35 miles an hour on flat terrain, no problems. Please give me some ideas. Plugs and wires are only about 10,000 miles old. No misses, and the lack of codes is frustrating.

Does anyone know of a source for a small quantity of 6-32 x 1" (or 1-1/4) Hanger bolts? I have been unable to locate anything smaller than 8-32 in thread size unless I spend $200 for a manufacturing run.

While I'd prefer brass, steel would work if that was all I could find. Thanks to anyone with any help.

I know that if I buy a used car from a dealer in AZ, I will have to pay sales tax. If I buy from a private party, I won't pay any. BUT...what rate will I have to pay from the dealer...is it based on MY location or the DEALER's location? (There are no dealers in my area and I'll have to travel wherever I buy it.) The other question is, if I buy it from a dealer in another state, do I still get stuck with sales tax? I'd really appreciate an MVD reference. Thanks!

This is relative to a California Divorce. The mother is receiving child support and has only been able to find part-time employment. She had been a Stay-at-home mom for 10 years, with the agreement of her ex that young kids need their mother at home. After the breakup, she was forced to take whatever job she could find to supplement his child support, relying on friends to babysit. Children are pre-teen. She is planning to remarry and thus her expenses can be reduced as the households combine, and she would like to return to SAHM status. What will happen to the child support if she does this? It isn't up to the new husband to provide support for the children, but his support will enable her to quit her part time job. There are no other children in the new union. Thoughts? She is merely trying to get back to what her ex had agreed to do for the last 10 yrs of their marriage.

I just got a Netgear wifi router, WGR614.v.7. It works fine, so long as I do not apply any security at all. As soon as I try to add WEP, WPA or WPA2, it connects with "Limited Connectivity" and I get no access. As soon as I go back to unsecured, then all is well again. What's going wrong????

I would like to find this as a special gift, and altho someone saw one at a restaurant, I cannot seem to find anything online. The plaque states "Just when the caterpillar thought its life was over, it turned into a butterfly"...or pretty close. Does anyone here have an idea where to find one?

The title says it all. I bought a nice little Kel-tec, with defensive rounds...but I need some plinking stuff to test it out. Even just a couple of boxes would do me...

I've replaced the flapper valve on my toilet that comes on every couple of minutes and altho that has always fixed similar issues in the past, it continues to leak past the valve. I have carefully felt the seat where the valve sits and there is no buildup or crud or the like. It feels very smooth...yet the flapper won't seal to hold the water. I bought a new flapper and installed it...but it was actually worse. The well water isn't very hard here in Oregon. The toilet is about 8 yrs old and is a Vitra brand...

So what is the solution to stop the leak???? Thanks...

In the 1970s (I think), there was a song that was a hit with nonsense lyrics. If I recall, the story was that they had a great melody, and then just added some temporary words to test it out that had catchy rhythm...but then they ended up releasing it with those lyrics and it was a hit. Can anyone remember the song I'm talking about???

Our old Maytag won't turn on the glow coil any more by just hitting the button to start. I was checking voltage at the new glow coil and noticed that when I pushed the button, I saw 120 volts but then it immediately dropped to zero. Heartened, I held the button in for about 15 seconds and then the coil did continue to receive the 120 volts and the gas fired up...so everything in the burner area (igniter, solenoids, gas valve) all works fine.

What needs replacement so that I don't have to hold the button that long? This is a pretty old dryer and I'm just trying to get it to last a few more months... I just checked and after 15 minutes, the gas is still burning fine...it is just the startup that now needs holding the button in long enough for the glow coil to ignite the gas.

I just got a new netbook (no CD Drive) to replace another laptop. I have a Canon wifi printer MX860 that has been working fine on our in-home wifi network with the previous computer. How do I get my new computer to "see" the printer? I did download the drivers from Canon...then hooked up the USB cable...but now that refers to the printer as needing to be on the USB port instead of on the network. Any help appreciated.