NY1Krr

I have my FiOS box connected to my Yamaha receiver via HDMI. The receiver has an HDMI cable going to the TV. SOME channels work fine but there are some channels (CBS) where the surround sound doesn't work right. The vocals come in through the left and right front speakers rather than the center channel...so it sounds hollow. I have a DVD player and Xbox connected to the receiver and they all work fine....and most FiOS channels work fine. I called Verizon and they don't know how to fix it. Any help would be appreciated.

We've lived in this house for over 30 years and the lights have always dimmed when we would plug in the vacuum or somethign else that has a motor...but it would only affect that circuit.

Just over the past few days we've been noticing that when the heat kicks on (oil burner- hot water baseboard heat) all of the lights dim in the house and seem to stay dim or even flicker. We haven't had any work done on the house recently so I'm confused as to what this could be. Thanks for the help!

I'm a 35yr old male. I had an abdominal CT scan (with contrast) done because of mid-back pain. The doctor thought it might have been kidney stones so he wanted to do the CT scan. Scan found that everything was normal except for a "sigmoid wall thickening". So my GP referred me to a gastro guy. He said that chances are, (35 year old male with no symptons) that it was just the colon being folded over or squished (like an accordian) that made it appear thicker when it really wasn't. He wanted to do a colonoscopy to be sure...so I did. After the colonoscopy he said everything was fine. No polyps or anything. But he wanted me to go for a Barium Enema test to be sure. I looked into this test and it sounded terrible so I didnt do it. He initially told me that the colonoscopy was to "be sure" and that the colonoscopy is the best and most advanced test available for this kind of stuff....so why does he want me to go back and do another test? Also, he said he wanted to do the colonoscopy to "be sure" and now he wants another test? To be extra sure?

Needless to say I'm a little annoyed because he planted that seed of doubt. Like something could be wrong. I dont have a history of cancel in the family that I'm aware but of course I'm still concerned. What would the barium enema pick up that the colonoscopy didnt?

Thanks for the feedback.

We just had our first child who is now 5 days old. My wife is really committed to breastfeeding but she's having trouble and it's making her extremely upset. Our baby girl was 7lb 14oz when born and got down to 7lb 4oz which the doctor said is normal. She had her first check-up and everything went well. However, she'll feed for 45 minutes or more and then she'll be satisfied for a short while but then get hungry again..sometimes as soon as 20 minutes. She hasn't slept for more than an hour straight since we brought her home. Her naps are very short and she's very fussy...but she is making quite a few dirty diapers.

My wife decided to pump and breastfeed thinking she could get more milk. We got a breast pump and started using it today. My wife will pump 15min per breast but only gets 1oz total. So after speaking to a friend who went through this we decided to run to the store to get some newborn formula to supplement the breast milk until it starts coming in more. (But she's still going to pump every 2 hours to keep the milk supply going). I just gave the baby 2oz of enfamel and she's out cold and seems very content.

How much formula can I giver her at once? Also, what can I do to make my wife feel better? She feels like a failure and is so upset I dont know what to do.

Thanks for the help!

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how this is possible. I tested a home outlet with an outlet tester and it said that the hot and netral were reversed. So I removed the outlet and tested the wires with a multimeter. From neutral-to-ground I got about 40 volts, from hot-to-ground I got 80. Everything had been working fine for years...I'm assuming its because the stuff plugged into the outlets still got 120 volts total. I traced the power supply from that outlet back to another, and another, until I got as close as I could to the source but they all still tested the same way.

I ended up just killing off the line and running a new one from the panel and everything is fine now. But I still dont understand how this happened. Any ideas? There were several outlets and a light fixture on this circuit and they all had been working fine with no issues. Of course after finding out about it I wanted to make sure it was wired correctly and safely.

I've wired 3 way switches before without a problem but this one is different. My buddy checked it out and said that it can't be done...I'm hoping that he's wrong.

It started when I wanted to change my dining room light to a 3-way switch. I wanted a switch on each side of the dining room to power the light.

The switch box for the light only has one romex cabe coming in (1- black, 1-white, and 1 ground wire). Normally I would see 2 wires. One providing power, and one going to the light. I do not have that. There is just one romex cable with 2 wires. If I touch the 2 wires together (white and black) the light turns on.

I tried wiring up a 3-way switch but since there isn't a neutral line in the box I have no idea how to do it....or if this is even possible.

Anyone have any idea what the prior electrician did? Where is the neutral? it it possible to wire a 3-way switch?

PS- the switch does not operate any other lights and it doesnt seem to be attached to anything else.

I dont have too much experience with PEX but I have to re-route some heating pipes because of a recent rennovation and I'm not sure what size PEX to use. The zone has a total of about 40ft of baseboard. Right now the piping is copper. Towards the end of the run I'll be putting on a copper to pex fitting and run pex back to the boiler...the problem is that I dont know what size pex to use. Should I just match the inside diameter of the copper to the inside diameter of the pex?

Thanks

I recently had my heating system converted from oil to gas. After the conversion was done I noticed that 2 of the faucets in the house took a couple of seconds to turn off. Both have separate hot and cold handles and the problem is with both the hot and cold. When you shut off the water, it takes about 2-3 seconds for the water to gradually turn off. Once off it does not leak. Since the problem is both with the hot and cold water I'm guessing its not a problem with the expansion tank.

Any ideas? Thanks!

I use microsoft internet explorer. I do not use firefox or google Chrome. A couple of days ago I started getting these ads from "drop in savings". I did a search to see how to remove it but everything that I found was in referents to firefox or google chrome. Nothing about internet explorer. I checked their website and it said to go into the control panel to the add/remove program section and delete the gameplaylabs software. Only problem is that it isnt there?

I never installed this and dont want it. How can I remove it?

Thanks!

I bought my house 5 years ago and have we hae an in ground heating oil tank. The previous owner told me that it was a new fiberglass tank but I have no way of knowing for sure so I'll take is word for it. I'm trying to figure out how much oil is in the tank so I put a stick in there and measured 20" of oil. I found some charts on the internet but in order to use them I need to know what the diameter of the tank is and whether or not it is horizontal? Do these fiberglass tanks come in a standard size? I was told mine was 275 gallons. How do i know how much oil is in it?

I'm converting to gas in a couple of weeks so I want to time it so I have little to no oil left in the tank.

Thanks

So my dad put regular gas into a 2-stroke echo chainsaw because he ran out of mixed gas and figured regular gas would be fine for 1 or 2 tanks (ugh..) He ran almost a full tank of gas befure the motor died. It's not siezed though. When I pull the starter cable everything moves fine but you can basically tell even by pull starting that there is no compression. This is an old chainsaw and I already got a new one but was thinking about rebuilding it. I've rebuilt 2-stroke dirt bikes before but I would send the top end out to get machined and the show would send me a new piston that fits the new bore. Dont want to spend the money on this one so I was thinking of just using a cylinder hone to clean out the cylider (hopefully there wont be any big gouges) then change the piston rings and see if it will work.

Anyone have any advice? Is this a lost cause? The piston rings are only ~$15. Do I need a new piston? Should I lightly sand the piston? With gaskets I dont think this should cost me more than $50. Already have a cylinder hone attachment for my drill from a previous project.

The chainsay was ~$400 new so if I can save it I'd like to.

Thanks!

I have a 3 zone heating system. The furnace is oil fired and I have hot water baseboard heat. 2 of the 3 zones work fine but the 3rd does not. When I turn up the heat I can hear the thermostat click but the circulator doesnt make any noise, at least not that I can tell. I tried bleeding air out of the system. There were some air bubles but after I was done it still didn't work. I think the circulator may have gone bad. Can someone tell me how to check it? Is there any way to bypass it?

Thanks!!

I have an 88 S10 blazer that I keep at a summer cabin. The vehicle rarely gets used. The brakes are not in good shape at all and you have to pretty much push the brakes to the floor to get the truck to stop...and it doesnt stop well. Recently one of the lines broke so I replaced it. I decided to bleed the brakes when I was done. With the lid OFF of the master cylider reservoir I had my dad help me bleed the brakes.

As soon as he started pumping the brakes the fluid sprayed out of the reservoir. Every time you press the brakes (with the cap off the reservoir of course) fluid would spray out...alot of it.

I've never seen this before and I'm assuming there is something wrong with the master cylinder. Do I need to replace it? Can I take it apart and try to rebuild it?

It has been replaced on this truck at least once (I think twice) but the last time it was replaced was over 10 years ago.

I have a 1988 S10 blazer and after having it sit for a while (over a year) it started right up but when I pull the lever to switch into 4wd it does not engage. Also, I hear a fairly loud hissing sound coming from (what seems like) the heating vents. Did some research and it seems like I may have a broken vacuum line or switch. Does anyone know what size the vacuum lines are? I'd like to buy some new hose as I'm sure its cheap but I have no idea what size to get.

Assuming it is the vacuum lines, where are they and how do I get to them? I notice lots of vacuum lines under the hood but they all seemed ok. Any other ideas on what the problem could be?

Any advice, tips, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

The power steering belt had been making alot of noise at start up and when turning. Belt was changed, still squealed. Then had the pump changed, and it still squeals. If you look at the power steering pump while someone else turns the wheel you can see the pump pulley actually slow down or even stop momentarily when the wheel is turned. Any idea what could be wrong?

PS there is fluid in the system.

Thanks!

I had someone weld together 2 sections of stainless steel exhaust pipe. He assured me that the weld would not protrude into the pipe...but it has a little so now I'm trying to figure out a way to grind down some of that weld. The problem is that it's about 10 inches down the pipe...and the pipe isn't straight. I was thining of using one of those flexible cylider hones but that wont exactly target the area...which isn't a big deal. But I dont even know if they make them that small. Does anyone have a better idea?

Thanks!

I recently got a soil test back (I live in Long Island, NY if that matters) and it looks like my phosphorus is high and potassium is low.

Phosphorus is 143ppm (Scotts says it should be between 20-40ppm so it seems like its really high.)

Potassium is 58ppm (Scotts says it should be between 150-250 so it seems like it is really low.)

How long does it take for Phosphorus to leave the soil if I use a fertilizer with no phosphorus? is there a way to reduce it?

Also, Scotts winterguard is 32-0-10. Should I put down extra potassium to get the levels up?

My lawn is really hurting and for some reason gras just wouldnt grow. I put down seed in the spring as well as starter fertilizer and watered frequently but only about 20% of the seed (or less) actually sprouted and it took much longer than expected. This lead me to get the soil test.

I'd like to get my soil to the ideal nutrient levels and I intend on power raking and re-seeding the lawn in the spring. I'm guessing I should get started with the soil now. But then again I'm new to this and dont know much about it.

Thanks for the help.

I get home heating oil deliverd to my home and have a service contract with a comapny. I was very unhappy with the service so I called to cancel on 10/25. They told me that I needed to send a request over in writing so I got their fax number and faxed a request in that afternoon. I also mailed a request via certified mail that evening. I have a fax confirmation and receipt of mailing. When I requested the cancel the woman asked form my account number and I (mistakenly) gave it to her. To my surprise they came and delivered oil this morning 10/27 even though the woman told me that my next scheduled deliver was "sometime in November". Also, if you look at last years schedule it looks like they came early this year...confirming my guess that they did this intentionally to get one last fill up before I canceled. They are trying to charge me $3.60 when CODoil.com in my area lists a price of $2.60.

Do I have to pay these scumbags? I think what they tried to pull was really low. Normally I would offer them the $2.60 COD price but I dont even want to give them that because of the unfair business practices that they are pulling.

I was wondering if anyone had experience in cutting titanium. I need to cut a motorcycle muffler that is made out of titanium. I was hoping to do this with a cutting wheel but after doing some research it sounds like that could potentially damage the metal. I was also thinking of using a hacksaw but I'm afraid the pressure will cause the muffler to get deformed as one side of it would be "open" while I am doing the cutting so it would hvae no support.

Does anyone have any experience cutting titanium? Any recommendations?

Thanks!

The 4wd on my 1988 S10 blazer is not engaging and I suspect the cause to be the vacuum hose. The truck is at my summer cabin 3 hours away so I cant crawl under it to check.

Can someone tell me what size the vacuum hose is? The length would also be very helpful. I'd like to swing by napa or pep boys to get the hose and change it this weekend but I cant seem to find out what size it is.

Thanks for the help!