?

He is now going to use his executive power to curb firearms, ban all private party sales, prison those who lied on their background checks.

I wonder if he remembers the last time we had a firearms ban...1999 Columbine...the ban did not stop Columbine and no ban will stop lunatics from wanting to kill people.

Point proven but in all honesty he is over-stepping his power for the minority. Probably will try to put the debt and economy on hold to do this ban by this March.

You are all probably familiar with this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKWNTdTR%E2%80%A6

You think he is over stepping his power?

He is now going to use his executive power to curb firearms, ban all private party sales, prison those who lied on their background checks.

I wonder if he remembers the last time we had a firearms ban...1999 Columbine...the ban did not stop Columbine and no ban will stop lunatics from wanting to kill people.

Point proven but in all honesty he is over-stepping his power for the minority. Probably will try to put the debt and economy on hold to do this ban by this March.

You are all probably familiar with this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKWNTdTRQuE

You think he is over stepping his power?

I would have to get 4 of them for a 4BT. http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7833-industri...

They claim 50+ more hp than the stock. So on a 4BT looking at 155hp and maybe 300ft-lbs or so.

Stock I know with 3.55 gears on 4x4 mileage would be about 22mpg. But I am not sure if these injectors would increase mpg or decrease. If they decrease mpg I probably wont get them. Any thoughts? They do work on the Cummins 4BT and 6BT 12 valve.

I am looking at doing a Cummins 4BT swap in a 1990s F150 and instead of running regular Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel I will be running biodiesel. The problem is that biodiesel gels up a lot faster than diesel fuel and I will be running it almost all year around. Been looking at tank heaters but the ones I have seen are ones that hook up to 120V house and will not run off the vehicle power.

Are their ones that I can hook up to the vehicle so I can have the tank heater running at all times? I don't care if I have to get a slightly larger alternator like a 120amp or 130amp.

After hearing and seeing a couple trucks and SUVs with a Cummins diesel engine after a swap I've wanted to do this myself. However some people say that using the older 6BT is cheaper than getting the 4BT. Not sure which engine to get either. I am looking at getting either a 1996 F150 or the same year F250. I am not looking at getting a Ford PSD one because I hate the idea of having to replace High Pressure Oil pumps, glow plugs and not having the ability to run on pure bio-diesel. The 6BT is fully mechanical and so running pure bio-diesel will not be an issue nor clog it up. Plus I also like on how easily the 6BT and 4BT are to work on.

If I get the F250 I would use it for plowing snow in the winter and use it to haul some stuff around. If i get the F150 it would mainly be used for hauling some stuff around and used as a daily driver as with the F250,minus using it for snow removal since I don't want to add a snow plow to a 1/2truck.

From forums I have read that the F150 truck frame may not handle the torque or weight of the 6BT nor will the stock rear end be able to handle the torque and so switching to the Ford 9" will help out greatly. But also I have heard that the 6BT will need the transmission moved back 4" but the 4BT will not since it is shorter than the 6BT.

Only reason I am considering the 6BT in a F150 is because a guy I went to college with bought a 1990s D150 that had a cummins 6BT in it that also had working 4 wheel drive as well. This is mainly a project that I have wanted to do for awhile. I first got the idea when reading about this guy from Canada who converted his Dodge Dakota with a susuki diesel. I know that this not a cheap build and it takes a lot of work but I am just wanting to do this for the fun of it.

Which transmission would be better suited NV4500 (5 speed) NV5600 (6speed), some automatic transmission or I believe its the Z6F or something manual transmission? Is it also easier to convert the vehicle to 2wd instead of beefing the transfer case to handle the torque of a diesel? What places could I call up to have engine mounts, transmission mounts and whatever else I would need to complete this project safely?

With some of the forums I have been on I have not created an account on them to fully access some of the threads so I haven't fully seen every detail. I have heard that 4BTswaps has full details and step by steps on how to do these swaps but most of those threads are really hard to find.

With the red line of the 4BT being 2500 and the 6BT of 2700 is there really a huge difference between the 2 other than a 2 cylinders difference? What are the pros and cons of the 2?

I like the idea of the 6BT just because they are cheaper to get a hold of and easier but fuel economy in the 4BT is slightly better but the torque output of the 6 is better. Any input on your thoughts would be much appreciated. I know if I just use regular diesel fuel the mileage difference I get with it over the price and mileage of a gas V8 the cost difference is more so in favor of the V8 gas.

Other vehicles i would consider in dropping a cummins in:

Ford Bronco (I)

Dodge Ramcharger

Chevy/GMC Suburban

Chevy Tahoe

And for the record this is legal in my state I live in. Emission laws have not been enforced in my state for about 10 years (Minnesota and Nebraska).

And what would the insurance difference be if I left it stock over swapping out to diesel?

Who are breeding these twisted individuals who have to shoot up every place now? This is getting sickening. Now I have no doubt in my mind that the Obummer Administration soon after the inauguration that they will initiate another weapons ban. What are your thoughts on what could happen in the coming months?

Just wondering. Looking at getting one for myself with this engine. I was thinking about getting around a 2003 model with the 5.4L or the 6.8L v10 but after looking at forums people complain that the V10 is pushed under the cowl making routine maintenance a pain and would have to send the truck into the dealer or a mechanic to lift the cab just to either replace the heads, injectors, coil packs, spark plugs. I like the 5.4L, my dad's 1999 F150 has one but we have the same problem like the F250 and F350 with the V10 with the back 2 plugs are under the cowl and are a P.I.T.A to work on.

I would consider the 6.0L PSD or a 2003 7.3L (2003 was the final production year of the 7.3L and mid way through that production year Ford with International introduced the 6.0L thus starting all the major PSD problems to the 6.4L) but those have to have the cab lifted off to work on them. The 5.4L even though I feel it is under powered in the F150 and will be for sure in the F250 SD but it will suffice for my needs (plowing and towing a 20' boat). I don't care about MPG with it since its a large truck and best with 4x4 on it will be about 15mpg at around 55 mph.

Any recommendations for a snowplow (straight plow not a v-plow) and complete assembly any brands that are great and ones to stay away from.

I have a .308 bolt-action rifle and I maybe getting a M91/30 Mosin-Nagant rifle for chirstmas or I may just buy one. I can handle .30-06 and .308WIN recoil fairly well. Would it be better to get 203 grain 7.62x54mmR SP or either wolf or Brown Bear corrosive ammo? Also do all Mosin-Nagants come with a cleaning rod or would I have to buy one? If so what size for cleaning brush? Not sure if a standard .30Cal wire brush would work in it compared to a .308 size barrel.

I have heard that when some people get them the front iron sight seems to be off by a little bit any good ways on fixing it so it wont be off? When you get ammo for it do all brands of ammo come with the stripper clips or not if not where can I pick up a couple dozen or more? And is it better to save each stripper clip or just toss them? I know that they were meant to be made cheap and just tossed on the ground.

Been seeing ads at Cabela's for a 92 for about $599 (after black friday). Just want some ideas for a first pistol once I turn 21 next year. Been looking at getting a Ruger SR22 for a starter then deciding between a 9mm and a .45acp. Just want more ideas to help me make my decision.

I have looked them up and it only seems like only a few were ever made compared to the like the Remington 700 or Winchester 70. Its hard to find after market synthetic stocks though I have found a company who will make one for me. Only stocks I have found were blank wood stocks (unfinished no design). From comparisons to the Mossberg 100 ATR the 800a seems like its the precursor.

Also I was thinking of getting a barrel made for the rifle with a muzzle brake to reduce the recoil is it strange to have a second barrel made with a muzzle brake? My current rifle weighs in around 10-12 pounds with the wooden stock, scope, sling, and adjustable bi-pod. With the synthetic stock weight will probably be down to hoping to 8-9 pounds and the muzzle brake will help reduce recoil. Its chambered in .308WIN even though the recoil is light with the weight reduction a muzzle brake will help me a lot. I know I could buy a recoil pad but I would prefer to have a muzzle brake.

Stock I am looking at getting is a Featherweight thumb hole from Boydsgunstock.com. Hoping they can make it but not sure. Rather not have to buy another rifle to get the stock I want.

Have a Mossberg 800a rifle that has a wooden stock but I want a synthetic for it to reduce the carrying weight of it by about a pound or two off of it. Also would like to have a thumb hole for when i shot without a bench or using my bi-pod on it. Have a scope on it with elevated rings (bad idea already regret those rings but will get different ones eventually). No one makes after market stocks for this rifle from what i can so is there anyone i could go through to get a custom stock made or would it just be better to get a different rifle altogether like a R700 or Winchester model 70 to get the stock I want?

Been looking at 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Magnum V10 and 2004-2006 Ford F250s with the Triton V10. Mileage wise ball parking at around 9-15mpg average with both. In 4 wheel drive extended cab with a 6.5' box on both automatic transmission. Other than the mileage (they are V10s so I know mileage shouldn't even be mentioned) how are both engines to maintain (spark plugs, serpentine belt, oil change, etc) basic stuff. I know that with the Triton V10 that there is a small portion that had a problem with blowing rods (not sure if its the connecting rod or push rod people talk about) with the 2 valve setup and that the 3 valve was bullet proof. On the flip side of the coin I heard between the junk 2 valve and the 3 valve that there was a bullet proof 2 valve that had the original problem fixed. How can I tell which was the better setup and how can I tell cosmetically which is a 2 valve and which is a 3 valve?

Are there any problems with the Magnum V10s and if they had any modifications between a certain year like the Tritions?

I bought the kit nearly a month ago and just started using it yesterday. Previously I was using the AA pack until i ran out of those AA batteries and switched to the battery pack. I bought it brand new and the battery has not even charged. I have looked this problem up and I have done what they have said...put the battery pack in, plug the charger into the controller, plug the charger into the Xbox if the light doesn't turn red remove it and plug it back in about 10-30 times til it turns red and stays red.

I plug the thing in and out repeatedly over 30 times and all i get is the green light that flicks on then off and stays off it only stays on for about half a second. Is there anything else i can do to have it work?

Next year I am turning 21 and been seriously been considering getting a CCW after I hit 21. I have shot pistols from a .22Lr pistol, .38spl/.357 Magnum revolver, and .45ACP.

Pistols I have been thinking about getting

Ruger SR22 (practice psitol)

For defense thinking either the 1911 platform, Glock 23, Glock 19, if possible maybe a .45ACP revolver or a Berretta 92 maybe a sig P226.

I haven't been able to look much at getting a pistol because I would think that a FFL would not let me handle one because I am not 21 years of age yet. I can handle a .357mag but I don't think that caliber would be a first choice as a defense because making a follow up shot with the recoil would be more difficult than say a .45ACP or 9mm Parabellum.

Need a newer truck. The truck that I have right now is my dad's 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. Has nearly 233K on it, running boards are rusting out, A/C compressor is no longer in it (bypass pulley in its place old compressor seized up), no heat at all (blend door is shot). Right now I am looking at getting my own truck. Looking at a 2004 F250 XLT extended cab 6' box 4x4 with a 6.8L v10 or a 2004 F250 XLT same setup but with the 5.4L V8. Mileage is not that big of a concern with me. Want to get a snow plow for it and I sure as hell don't want to put one on a 1/2 ton F150 size truck.

Any thoughts. The V10 they are asking $12500 and the V8 $14000 (both at a Ford dealership) and in excellent condition. Neither have had a snow plow nor a 5th wheel in them ever (both were company trucks not much more than 130K miles.

Also random question but can I add a 5 or 6 speed manual to either engine? If so what transmission can I use and is it worth the effort to help with mileage with towing and plowing?

Been deciding on getting a 3/4 ton truck with a diesel but can't decide on a 6.6 Duramax,Cummins 5.9L 12 valve or 24 valve or a 7.3L PowerStroke Turbo diesel. Just wanting to know what would be the better engine for everything from fuel economy, towing, and longevity of the engine. For the Cummins between a 1996-2003, 6.6L Duramax 2002-2004, and 7.3L 2000-2003.

I know I know that the 6.0L had issues but I know how to get those problems fixed (mainly APR head bolts, larger exhaust, thicker head gaskets, etc). Looking at getting one of them either a 2002/2003 F250 7.3L or a 2005 or later 6.0L. Mainly the Powerstrokes to stay away from would be the sequential twin turbo charged 6.4L PSD due to regen mode for emissions.

But I am looking at an F250 4x4 extended cab with a short box not going to have it lifted. Main use for it would be to tow a boat and haul some stuff around that is too hard to do on my F150. But I also want to get around 21mpg...so which gearing would be best for that but also still good for towing? Either one would be in the Super Duty. And yes I have considered doing a Cummins 5.9L 12 valve swap and the 4BT swap but that option is not in my best interest.

If i did get a 7.3L PSD how many miles would be the most I should buy it with? I know they'll last practically forever before needing an overhaul. Also with higher diesel prices is it possible to find a smaller fuel tank maybe a 20 gallon or 25 gallon tank?

I'm 20 and I really don't drive much faster than 62mph on the interstate just to keep my mpg up. If I am not in a hurry I am doing about 55mph.

Been driving gasoline vehicles for awhile but I would not mind getting into diesel. Yes i do know that parts about 3-6 times more expensive than gas engines never turn the diesel engine off if I'll in and out of a place...I know all that.

Is a cetane booster recommended or not? 6.0L PSD are recommended to run on Motorcraft (Ford's brand) of anti-freeze and oil and filters...is the 7.3L PSD picky on oil or could I use like AMZ oil or Valvoline?

Thanks so much for the help.

I know I know that the 6.0L had issues but I know how to get those problems fixed (mainly APR head bolts, larger exhaust, thicker head gaskets, etc). Looking at getting one of them either a 2002/2003 F250 7.3L or a 2005 or later 6.0L. Mainly the Powerstrokes to stay away from would be the sequential twin turbo charged 6.4L PSD due to regen mode for emissions.

But I am looking at an F250 4x4 extended cab with a short box not going to have it lifted. Main use for it would be to tow a boat and haul some stuff around that is too hard to do on my F150. But I also want to get around 21mpg...so which gearing would be best for that but also still good for towing? Either one would be in the Super Duty. And yes I have considered doing a Cummins 5.9L 12 valve swap and the 4BT swap but that option is not in my best interest.

If i did get a 7.3L PSD how many miles would be the most I should buy it with? I know they'll last practically forever before needing an overhaul. Also with higher diesel prices is it possible to find a smaller fuel tank maybe a 20 gallon or 25 gallon tank?

I'm 20 and I really don't drive much faster than 62mph on the interstate just to keep my mpg up. If I am not in a hurry I am doing about 55mph.

Been driving gasoline vehicles for awhile but I would not mind getting into diesel. Yes i do know that parts about 3-6 times more expensive than gas engines never turn the diesel engine off if I'll in and out of a place...I know all that.

Is a cetane booster recommended or not? 6.0L PSD are recommended to run on Motorcraft (Ford's brand) of anti-freeze and oil and filters...is the 7.3L PSD picky on oil or could I use like AMZ oil or Valvoline?

Thanks so much for the help.

Been debating on this for a while. Yugo SKS, Saiga, WASR-10/63 or Ruger mini-14. I am more leaning towards the first 3 because 7.62x39mm is cheaper where i am at by a couple dollars over 5.56mm. But Not 100% sure what to get. This would mainly be a target rifle. Already have a .22Lr and a .308 hunting rifle. I am more or less leaning more into an AK style but not sure. I wouldn't get a magazine larger than 20 but may buy a 30. Would not convert something that was designed to shoot from a built in magazine (destroys the value plus if it wasn't setup for it why bother).

Just looking for opinions, information, and any first hand experience with these rifles.

Thinking about taking up reloading ammo and at this time I have 2 calibers .308WIN and .30-06. Can I use the same die for both since the bullet sizes are the same or would it be better to get 2 different dies? Never reloaded before. Thinking about getting a progressive reloader since it is much faster than single stage plus less work.