FstaRocka

On my 4th visit in the last 12 years on my second 10 yr B1B2 visa - the immigration officer gave me a SUPER hard time, and limited my stay to 3 months instead of the 6 im allowed.

Is there anyway I can take them on over this? I have been fully employed by software firms from home every time I have been in the US, I have never broken a single rule or over stayed - nad my job gives me freedom to work from anywhere.. Last time I was here was almost 9 months ago - whats the deal? it sucks being limited - heck I should be welcomed! I have medical cover from a us company while im here and own 3 vehicles...???

Hi there, Im thinking of setting up an LLC in the US as I visit frequently with my B2 visa. I am a freelance software developer from South Africa (we have a tax treaty with the US). I am thinking of starting a one man LLC for for just myself (to give a bit more credibility) and possibly market advantages for potential US clients but would obviously like to avoid US taxes if possible.

As far as ive read I am tax exempt because: I am an alien / non citizen / sole proprietor / my country has a tax treaty (which means I need to do my taxes back home) and wish to open an LLC. If i host my website outside the US would that make any difference ito receiving paypal payments etc? (id prefer hosting in the US).

Another way I see it is I could just look for clients online and basically "do business" from home - even if its over the internet without the LLC, but it is a nice prospect in case it starts growing. I think an LLC dies add some business credibility - but as a freelancer there is obviously a balance.

I do have a US bank account and address already - I am considering going to seattle on a more permanent basis if business picks up.

I know this is a lengthy topic, I just thought id get some answers - Thanks in advance!

hi. i recently realised my A+ consulate issued my UK tourist visa from the date of my application instead of my ticket dates. my ticket for new York leaves 2weeks after my UK tourist visa expires.

it is legal to be in south Ireland without visa so one option is to spend last two weeks there and head to Heathrow to catch plane within 24hours. flight centre back home told me i could transit with my USA B2 visa in the UK. does it sound viable this way? at least i can argue i was in south Ireland if they ask questions.. or try chance it and stay in UK 2weeks longer.

costs too much to change ticket!

thanks

Hi all. Ive recently finished rebuilding my 77 camaro. She was originally a stocker, 8 in 1 2", 2.73 TH350 with a torker sp2 intake and eddie 4106. Drove like a tired mule.

Swapped in a 200-4r stock OD trans from a 89 buick.

1st fix

I splashed on l 5/8 long tube headers and true 2 1/4 duals (that woke her up a bit).

Next up was vortec heads (stock), Lunati 465/485 214/224 cam. I saw she was 40 over and running VERY clean. No oil anywhere and she burns nothing. Installed air gap intake / 1" spacer and a q-jet I remanned myself with stock jetting (72/40, i tried upping the jets but it ran rich, black powder inside tail pipes) and an 8hg primary spring.

Lastly I swapped the 2.73 for a 3.42..

Hei springs are 2 mediums from Mr gasket set, 12 initial + 28 max. It seems my mech adv only gets to 16 no matter high high it revs - I have a 10 (crank) degree vac AR22 can. Dizzy weights seem good and cleaned the lot. They snap in place well.

All in all the car def drives better - but im not getitng the sotp feeling. Even from swapping in the 3.42 it wasnt nearly as much of an improvement as i thought.

Could my trans be slipping? (it doesnt heat up at all)

My gas cable is adjusted with 1/2mm play and the primary spring is depressed upon idle (i set it up according to lars grimsruds information).

Car starts / idles well although it tends to slowly idle lower for a little bit but that may just be a soft spring i have in there.

I just feel like there should be ALOT more beef coming out of her. Stall is also stock - this is a daily driver.

Hi all. Rebuilding older cars is a past-time hobby for me. I have some questions considering handling / rubber mounts etc.

I restored a 1974 ford cortina Mk3 last year. Upon wanting to have the alignment done the chap told me to replace the bushings first. I removed both wishbones and pressed in new stock replacement rubber mounts. The car still shakes when it hits bumps in the front. Shock have been replaced. The sway bar mounts have not - and i largely suspect that the problem - it feel like the two wheels are bouncing out of alignment for a moment - am i correct in suspecting the front sway bar?

Also - i put in stiffer rear springs with much better tires (55 sidewall 15"). I then knocked out the rubber bushings from the axle to the body and inserted nylon bushings there on one side, and left rubber on the frame side to still have a bit of softness..When I accelerate hard from stop- the rear wheels tend to hop a little bit. Could this be from the axle twisting? I did notice when i twist the driveshaft it turns ALOT before stopping - like maybe more toward 1/5th of a turn.. is this backlash of transmission? (5 speed manual).

The rear end was pitiful before, but now on smooth corners the car feels incredible - I guess thats the rear nylon bushes / tires etc. I want to install a rear panhard bar to keep the body flatter. Would an anti rollbar make a big diff on the rear wheels after this?

I just finished rebuilding a 77 camaro 350 up (engine), and i have replaced all 4 shocks with gas - and i feel THE SAME darn front end shaking when i hit bumps! I havent replaced the bushings yet - but after having such dire results from the ford im a bit disappointed. Im considering making my own nylon bushings for the sway bars.

I see some performance upgrade packages use BEARINGS instead of rubber on the front - I would imagine this would be very hard - but then id prefer better handling over a soft ride ANY day.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g437/FstaRocka...

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g437/FstaRocka...

the faded pink one with triple headlights -

looking at a friends 2003 dodge neon 2moro. base model, timing belt snapped (prob from tensioner failure). Im wondering what else i should replace on the timing belt side of things (bare safe minimum):

timing belt

tensioner

water pump

and 2: are the engines/heads interchangeable. Depending on the amount of damage ill either be swapping the head (all 2nd gen heads the same? sohc), and if i decided to do the whole engine - will they bolt right in?

i have looked at forums etc and gathered a bi t of info - im esp curious as to engine/head differences in the gen 2's..

according to wiki 2nd gen is 2000-2005, so could i use these cars as donors for complete engine/head swap?

tx

Hi all.. ive been dratting to and fro trying to upgrade my 77 8.5" camaro 2.73 rear to anything posi like for a while now.

I have confirmed inter changeability between pumpkins for the later 8.5 back to mine. I found a 8.5 gov lock 3.42 in good shape with 30 spline spiders. If u used my 28 spline spiders with the 3.42 gov lock internals in my carrier, id have a gov lock 3.42 / 28 spline since the spiders will (should) cross fit.

I read here :http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f13/modifying-the-ea...

that you can either increase the weight of the gov lock to engage sooner (which i dont want to attempt), but also that you can remove the weights, add more clutches and a [preloaded spring (much like the s-type i presume).

does anyone here have any experience of how this would work? Would i just get some more clutches from the same year (90's taho i think) and squeeze those in? Or could i get an s-type spring and make it fit the gov lock?

thanks. no i dont have $$ for a bloody great eaton posi, much as id love to i just dont have that kind of $$.

All else fails ill just run the gov lock. What about the spoolers? summit has spoolers for $100, could i rebuild the gov lock into that and have a better lsd?

Hi all- ive been (trying to weld for about 12 years)... I started fiddling around when someone gave me an old electric welder. I later found out my sticks were ancient and had suffered from damp and being rained on.. anyways - ive laid some really neat beads in a butt join, and on some occasions done some neat stuff, but it varies just too much. Straight sections and layered beads i can nail really well.. but angles are a pain..

Today i welded 8mm exhaust flanges to 1.5mm round tubing, as usual it was a mixture of nice beads, and then the dreaded double hump situation that leaves flux down the middle and i really struggle to get out of that. I have experimented albeit not strictly with different angles. I noted the thick metal penetrated slower so i had to smear across from the flange into the thinner tubing and back. I tried straight, fast, slow, zig zagging with a general 60 degree lead angle (rod pointing back) at varyinbg degrees starting around 45... Ive watched many many tutorials on angles, but i always struggle with joins, esp with different thickness of metals.

My welder could also be shot (a piece of turd). its a PAIN to strike and get going (on lighter rods) compared to other ones ive seen. I just got a little welder and using the lighter of the two rod sizes, and i still get sputtered beads. Ive tried different rods and polarities as well - my equipment might suck.. anyway - any tips?

guidelines / experience welding uphill vs downhill, that kind of thing~

thanks!

Hi there, the time has finally come (well almost) for me to get a neway cutter (honestly the idea of doing my own 3 angle valve jobs kinda tingles my fingers and wraps a fat grin!).. ive been to the goodson site, and they list the cutter sizes there, but im not actually sure what size ill need (lets assume im cutting valves from the smaller exhaust @ 1.5" to the larger intake 2.02 ) - 5 blade (for best concentric cuts) and 45 degree (im planning on buying the 3 angle blades for a single pass cut - they only work on 45 degree cutters).. since that is the valve size, what size would the seat be then? Obviously id prefer a small range on either side if possible. for a 1.96" valve do i pinpoint a cutter @ say 1.92?

Has anyone got a recommendation?

And what pilot size(s) would i need?

thanks all!

yes ill need the t-handle and the valve setup / alignment tool but thats a no brainer.

I have a 2.73 77 camaro (originally inline 6 now a 350). I remember checking the casting number and reading up its a 2.73. (yes i will pop the plate and check, but lets assume it is for now)

Im looking to upgrade to 3.42 OR 3.73 (pref posi).

My rear cover indicates I have a ten bolt 8.5, it seems mine is thus a series 2, 8.5 ten bolt?

Now looking at upgrades 3.42 < i am having to upgrade to series 3. Im swapping the whole rear axle to avoid ring/pinion troubles and bearing pressing costs at this point.

Ive read hordes of articles and im a bit unclear as to whats going on.

What complications would i have to look out for? some posts mention changing drive shaft length (out of my budget). And i seem to understand the 8.5 is pretty ok as opposes to the 7.5 inch rears..

Im looking for a bolt in setup that :will work with my 77 camaro (leaf spring), be the tougher 8.5 type, and be 3.42 or pref 3.73 (posi).

I seem to find that most later GM axles came out with the weaker 7.5 " rears, and im not sure what to be looking for. From a hotrod article i could apparently find a truck carrier with posi and plop it into 72-78 nova housing and be off with it at the wreckers - any references here?

I presume it wont fit in my housing or will it? im sure I have the 28 spline axle, but i get matching axles from the wrecker for the same price so i could transfer my drums to those.

Sorry for the rambling - but its quite complicated for a newb and im just trying to have a clear idea - pls dont ref me to articles unless they are vehicle/swap specific or relevant, believe me ive read many..

Hi all.. Im wondering if there are any places where I could collaborate with photographers for an exhibition? I bought about 7 or 8 of my limited edition prints not knowing where I would be - and Seattle it is. I have fallen in love with this city (3rd visit now) and am looking for a place to exhibit.

I do fine art photography and take it quite seriously even though its 100% passion / hobby. I do sell them (sloooooowly! only 1 sold to date!) - but Im not set at selling as much as just showing off :) Im a no-namer which doesnt count for much in the "art scene", so im not too demanding. I just love my work so much I really want a handful of ppl to appreciate it. Ive had about 4 exhibitions before with great feedback!

For a glimpse of my works visit saatchionline(dot)com/Fstar - any ideas appreciated!

tx and happy new years!

hi there, in a prev question i asked if i could apply for an extension for my stay in the US. i returned after a 6 month stay hoping to remain here for another 5 months when my return ticket was for however i only received 1 month! I do photography and plan on shooting route 66 for my fine art collection back home etc. I even bought the camaro lol!

anyway, I have a B1/B2 visa multiple entry, with about another 2 years left. If i apply for the i-539, and say it takes 2 months to reach a verdict and i am not granted the extension, am i correct that i have 30 days to leave the US?

and secondly, say the waiting period passes my i94 by a month and a half, that would then be considered overstay, even though it is legally allowed. I fail to understand how - under those circumstances I would be considered as having overstayed, would i lose my visa? and if i decided to return in a year or a bit less than a year, how would that imapct my return? surely waiting for a response over the i94 expiration should exempt you from being categorized as having overstayed under these circumstances? esp if its permitted by law?

Thing is, i just need 4 months extra to complete my photography etc. with less than 4 weeks left, not only do i have to cancel that, but i also have to pay for my ticket!!

tx yahoo contributors, i always get fantastic feedback from u guys - cheerio!

Hi all. I recently returned from costa rica (surfing) as my previous 6 month 194 expiry date was around the corner hoping to get another 6 months to complete my US trip (my return ticket was for May the next year). Upon entry, i was taken to an office where the immi guy gave me only 1 month (and a whole bunch of attitude), my visa is still valid for 2 years. I would really like to stay till may, I bought a old camaro to cross the country with, and im staying with friends all the time (unless on the road of course!) - i would like to apply for an extension, any ideas? Id appreciate any experiences.. if i overstay my visa falls away and I def dont want that happening..

The interveiw:

I have no US issues of any kind. I was however a little broke after my trip (I bought a camaro 2 months before which he could see). He made comments like: "so u thought u could leave the country and get another 6 months?", and i was like: "Yes" (as law states that one is permitted that), then he answered:"Sorry bud it doesnt happen." as if he had made his mind up before i answered. Those were his first words. He also asked if i had medical which I do except i wasnt carrying it in my carry on - and he didnt believe me. I also told him i could show how Ive made about $12000 from one client in the past few months but he also wasnt interested. I make enough money to be in the US, I have full medical cover, I own a car yet I get rejected because "my lifestyle doesnt make sense" in his eyes? He proceeded to ask me how old i was, being the same age as him just got the shaking head.He couldnt accept the fact that as a freelance software developer and actually make enough money to travel in the states. He kept looking at me shaking his head saying "ive been doing this for ten years and ive heard every story and seen everything." He looked at ONE payment of $350, and thought that was my monthly earnings missing the OTHER payment of the same amount, and the one of $2000 for the next month - after that there was just no hope. He was saying things like: "So you travel to costa rica and surf around one $350? And you live in washington?". "I think you are going to be a public liability top our country - like we're going to have to take care of you." yeah right, like how when all im actually doing is spending all my cash here eh?

I didnt even bother repeating myself twice that I was staying for free with friends and travelling around..

I am shocked and personally quite insulted that you have to fit into a certain "bracket" to be allowed to travel freely, esp when you have all correct paperwork, documents and no arrest issues in the US. I know I was a little broke at the time, but erm - after 5 weeks in costa rica who isnt!

After looking forward to visiting my cousins in Canada and hoping to spend more time with friends all i can say is what a disgrace to travellers the place has become. At least i thanked him for the month - "because you dont have any arrest records", yeah, thanks really...

I ho[pe this will aid people in the future who dont walk around with $20 000 in cash to be prepared if they are travelling - to carry PROOF of everything, from financial earnings, medical insurance, address, return tickets, etc with their CARRY ON LUGGAGE when re-entering etc.

I just swapped in a 200-4r into my 77 camaro 350 (stock except 4 an edelbrock intake and 4106 carb), 273 rear end with COLUMN SHIFT. I connected the linkage without any problems - I do however have some questions regarding gearing, dash display and the extra (D) on the 200-4r..

1: My th350 just drove when I put it into D. I read of people manually shifting their 200-4r's thru gears - is this possible/true? Dont automatics do their own shifting? Is this something only possible with the 200-4r?

2: My dash display is from the th350 (P R N D 1 2) while my (1989) 200-4r has (P R N (D) D 2 1). I used to shift it manually (naturally!) - How will it work now? Do i just put it into D same as before (will the 200 automatically go into overdrive) what about the (D) overdrive? is that an extra position for the column shifter or do I have to manually put it into OD? (confused) or does the lockup switch activate this position on the dash? (mine has an electric lockup switch i think). Does the trans automatically go into overdrive while in D (non overdrive)?

Sorry if some of these questions are super noob - but last thing i want is to fry my trans or drive it in 3rd on the highway! Please answer the questions clearly, thanks.

* this is for a daily driver witha little pep. Im gonna add a 3" or dual 2.5 - that should free up some more power and prob change the fan for a lightweight one and maybe smaller pulleys.

hi.. recently bought a 77 Camaro with a Chevy 350. has edelbrock intake, performance air filter and edelbrock 1406. looks like a package, not sure.runs great, fires up first time. highway mpg is about 18 at 60 miles. could be worse I guess? has hei dizzy..

currently stock muffler, 8 in 1 :( I wanna throw on some long tube ceramic headers and a h dual exhaust to wake her up.. am I wrong in thinking the extra flow will hurt economy or is it a wild guess? want to pop on a qjet if the intake can support the square and spread type..

hope BOTH mods will aid with economy.. its a daily driver and road trip car.. 383 rear.

th350 at the mo, want to throw in a 2004r for even better economy.. this sound good??

U read it right - Im buying a 77 camaro next week. chap says it has a th350 column shifter.. Id really like to get a floor unit in with overdrive.. cheapest option is a 200-4r, its about the same length except for cross member mounting..

Im new to automatic trannies - will the 350 torque converter work on the new 2004r? Do all automatics use cables? Im used to stick so not sure.. Anyone done this id appreciate some guidance. Im on a very tight budget (sono 2-300 $ floor shifter kits form u know who) - and have access to a small workshop.. what stall is good for a lower range performance street car? (330hp/400tq @ 1200-5500 rpm range)...

I want to build a 350 nova with manual tranny (floor shift). There are some inline 6's around. What is the rear on an inline? 3.08? I am reading about different rears, 8.2" and 8.5" and parts being hard to find, etc and so forth so dunno what i should look for, and is it true i could find a posi rear from another car would be quite easy? (what donor cars?)

What trannies did the slant 6's come with? anything usable on a 350 for a while till i get a richmond 5 spd?

I know the driveshaft will prob have to be changed but thats not a biggy. Im not all to familiar with rear ends etc.. i guess id prefer disc rear too - im building an economical street car with lots of low/mid torque, with .5 OD (and good cruising torque) hoping for about 23mpg (highway).

anyone got cam spec recommendations? l31 heads (stock), q-jet, flat tops, decked.

How would my cam choice vary between manual / auto? I dont see that option on any cam software, also.. whats the GM semi automatic tranny like on the sixes?

tx! hp[e to be buying a car quite soon, not sure how much work is needed for a 6-8 conversion.

Hi there - these specs come from a super chevy article feb 2000. im thinking of following these specs for my street build - the gobs of torque are lovely. Im looking for build specs to follow and hope to achieve similar results. I have no experience with cams, as they affect idle vac, throttle response, power range, mpg, etc etc. I want serious throttle response (high rise intake?) and a lovely street machine... here are the specs:

(i already have l31 heads with stock valves 096 castings with 3 angle seat on exhausts)

Chevy 350 v8

Speed Demon 750

GM L31 Vortecs, with 1.94/1.50 in. valves

Edelbrock Performer RPM Vortec

(Unknown cam) 224/224°

Lift at 0.050" 0.447/0.447

Dyno output:

HP 375 @ 5700

TQ 408 @ 4300

Lift is still relatively low (aftermarket beehive spring kit for extra clearance) - as id like to avoid machining costs...

Im not sure if this is a double pumper (i assume so, these figures are quite big) ? Could i get similar specs from a vac secondary and what would my highway mpg be? I was thinking of getting a Q-jet for costs and i would like to start getting really good at rebuilding these and tuning them. Option two is to look for a new out of the box easy tunable carb. it depends - This seems to have perfect street specs...

Also - i dont know if this is a high rise intake but assuming its not, wouldn't a high rise intake add a fraction of beef i might lose with a more economic carb? reduced pulleys, etc. Also - ive read vortec heads could do with a slightly longer exhaust duration -

This uses dished pistons, could i pop in flat tops and get more comp? I want to run pump gas naturally. the timing here was 35 degrees.