accorn34

OK, sorry if this is a retarded question, but i'm just trying to understand bonds..

Anyways I purchased 2 bonds for 130.309 (so $2,606.18 total).

The bond has a par of $2000, coupon rate of 8.800%, and yield to maturity of 5.110%.

The bond comes due in 02-15-2021 (interest paid in Feb,Aug), and if i'm right it looks like 22 interest payments left.

So anyways I was trying to figure out how much each interest payment will be. Do I do $2000 x .08800% to get the yearly interest, then divide it by 2 and then times that amount by 22 to find the amount of total interest I will be paid - or is that wrong and I would be computing using other variables.

Thanks!

I recently purchased 2 bonds at 130.309 (so $2,606.18 total), giving a yield to maturity of 5.110%.

I understand it was sold at a "premium" but one thing I was curious about is when the bond comes do, how much money do I get back on maturity?

Meaning do you just get back $2000, and the premium amount is just the extra you paid to get the bond (so you wont get back the $606 additional) or do you get the full $2606.18 back at maturity? Thanks!

Ok so I understand basically that if you buy a higher yielding bond and the interest rates fall, your bond is worth more because it pays more interest.

So you can sell it for a premium (and hence the yield decreases).

Whereas if the rates rise the yield will increase if you sell it because you have to offer it at a discount to sell it.

But why would someone pay a premium, if buying at a premium decreases the yield?

Meaning what does it matter if a bond is paying 6.5% instead of 5% if you have to pay more to get it, therefor making it basically equal to 5% anyways? Why not just get another non-premium bond then?

I know there are risk variables in the price, i'm just talking about the effects of interest rates.

Meaning, do I understand it that the price of the bond, discount or premium basically makes all bonds equal to current interest prices (assuming there is no risk variables) - or for example, can you pay a "premium" on a bond but still make more profit on the interest even though you pay that premium up front to get it?

So i'm trying to understand about bond yield. I understand the yield goes up if you buy it at a discount and yield goes down when you pay a premium. I made up a scenario below in very simple terms. Do I understand it correctly?

You buy a 10 year bond for $1000 yielding 7.5%. ($75/year)

So 3 years into it the interest rates fall to around 5% and you can now sell it for more than you $1000 you paid originally.

So let say you sell it for $1250 and now the person buying it is getting an overall yield of 6%.

That same person could have purchased another $1000 7 year bond paying 5% a year = $50 year, so at maturity would be $1350.

Whereas by paying $1250 for the 6% bond.

It pays $75 year x 7 years, plus $1000 at maturity, so 1525.

Am I understanding the above correctly? I know my math is probably more simple than reality but just trying to understand the concept in layman terms.

I guess i'm basically trying to understand, i'm assuming if people buy a bond with a premium, it must be a better deal for them in because of higher interest in the end, otherwise why would they buy it at a premium at all?

Also, why would a person want to sell in the above scenario when they could just hold out and get more in the end?

I see school textbooks, financial gurus etc all saying that owning stocks means you own a portion of the company, but that seems like a clear lie to me. If I purchase a local pizza restaurant I actually get a direct share of profits and loss of the company operations, and I also have real power to be involved in the decision making.

If you have a stock shares however, the profit and loss is not at all really connected to the company, it is just a psychological game being played with other investors. Your not really getting any return on company operations, you only get a return when other investors THINK the company is doing well and buy the stock and you then sell it high.

So it's really just a mind shill game from what I can see.. not real business and not real ownership.

Not to mention you have no real power unless you have the majority of shares - meaning you vote on some insignificant factors on occasional board meetings - your not involved with everyday business like real owners. Just curious what others think about that.

It is not scientific to claim something doesn't exist, without evidence, any more than it is scientific to claim something does exist, without evidence.

Since your not dead, so you can't real test anything with evidence, the only scientific position would be to be agnostic, which is to say you CANT KNOW if god exists or doesn't exists.

Atheism is just as much a religion as Christianity is, as it is based on faith (in this case faith that something doesn't exist).

Can someone explain the expected difference between a shotgun with a 20" barrel vs 24" in terms of hunting for turkey and deer?

Is there an accuracy difference, power difference, and kick difference?

I'm a total newbie considering getting a shotgun for hunting.

(in my state they don't allow rifles).

I would also like the shotgun to be useful for self defense at home, god forbid I ever need it.

Anyways i've learned there are different types of barreels (smooth vs rifled) as well as different lengths.

I was considering getting this one which i've been told is ok for both:

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.ph...

As that gun has two barrel types.

But I was wondering, assuming I don't want the above combo - is there a barrel length that is good for hunting but also ok for defense purposes?

Meaning, for example, is there a general purpose length that can work for both (24", 26" etc).

Thanks in advance.

I've never shot a gun so i'm a total newbie, but i'm interested to start hunting.

In my state they don't allow rifles for deer hunting, just shotguns or muzzle loaders.

So anyways, I've been debating what I want. At this point I only want one gun to get comfortable with, and ideally it would be potentially useful for home defense if ever needed.

After looking around i'm thinking of getting this 20 gauge or something like it:

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.ph...

I'm male, about 180lbs, 5 foot 6ish or so.

Does it seem like that would work ok for me?

I'm probably going to look at my local gun store as well and see what he says but I was also curious, if he doesn't have the above available, would it be a safe bet that the above gun would be an ok "fit" for me, meaning would you be comfortable ordering over the net without trying it?

Thanks for any tips.

I registered a company name as a trademark (federally registered) - but just the text, no special logos.

So am I allowed to use the R symbol next to the text in my logos?

Or do I need to register the logo separately to do that?

I registered my company name text as a servicemark (text only - no graphics).

I was just wondering if it is legal for me to use the R trademark symbol next to my logo even though I have only registered the text. Or in this case would I need to register the graphic as a separate trademark before it is legal to put R next to it?

I'm learning electronics and having some trouble understand the difference between current and voltage.

I understand current is the actual juice that is flowing and voltage is the driving force - and have heard the analogy that current is the water and voltage is the water pressure.

But what i'm really not getting regarding voltage is this:

If I measure a 5.5V capacitor on a device I am testing, it is showing the actual voltage averaging about 3.3V with the batteries in it, but it fluctuates up and down.

But according to my above definition voltage is just the pressure or potential - so shouldn't the pressure always basically be the same based on the power source and resistance etc?

What causes the pressure to change?

Hopefully my question makes some sense :).

Thanks

I'm trying to test the voltage of a memory capacitor (gold cap with + and - pins) on my Palm PDA motherboard.

The electronics book I am studying says to connect the "red lead" to the component I want to measure, and the "black lead" to ground to get this measurement -

But I don't see anything on the board that indicates ground - does it even have a ground??

Does anyone know what I should be looking for?

Thanks

I replaced a faulty memory backup capacitor in an old Palm PDA.

The old one is a gold cap rated 5.5V & .10F.

I couldn't find a suitable replacement but I did have a 3.3V .2F gold cap capacitor, so I put that in instead.

It works fine, but since i'm very new to electronics i'm wondering what effect the difference can will have?

Will it likely cause any problems down the line?

I'm new to electronics and learning to solder, etc. And I had a question about the Lithium ion battery in my pda.

Let's say the manufacturer stops making replacement batteries - but I want to keep the device running ... It is a 3.7V Li-Ion with a particular connector. If I found another battery that produced that same voltage, could I cut the wire leading to the connector, and solder on my old connector - and that battery should work?

Thanks

I know memory card like XD, Smartmedia, SD etc have a limited amount of read/writes allowed. So if you used it all of time eventually it will wear out.

But does anyone know if memory cards go bad over time just by storing them and not using them?

I'm considering buying some bulk XD picture cards for future use but want to make sure they will stay good until I am ready to use them.

Thanks!

The trademark registration form asks if I am "actually using the mark in commerce now".

Since I am applying for a servicemark, my understanding is that the service is "in commerce now" when it is advertised.

BUT one question, is a service considered "advertised" when it is just offered on a public site or do you have to do active advertising such as giving out flyers or TV ads etc.

Also, is listing the site on a search engine like yahoo considered "advertising"?

Here are some more details in case you need them. The company name is something like companyname, llc and the domain is companyname.com, and I want to trademark "companyname".

The service is an online software listing database, the I will be charging a monthly subscription to software companies to link to their sites.

The servicemark will be displayed at the top of each page (in the form of a logo).

I have an order form for software vendors to sign up for my subscription service on the site. (that is what I am directly "selling").

On the site there will be links my vendors sites (who are paying a monhtly subscription to be listed), which consumers will buy directly from them by clicking the links. I do not yet have any vendors who have actually subscribed/purchased the service as of yet.

I have a unique website name which I want to trademark.

I'm confused about the TEAS registration form part where it asks if the mark is actually used in commerce now or intending to use.

I don't have any sales as of yet, but I do have the site up and a functional order form online (with the intent to accept any orders now).

So does my current state equal "actually using in commerce?" or do I have to say i'm just intending to.

I would prefer to say i'm actually using it to have the registration done in one step - but don't want to lose my trademark protections so want to make sure it's defined right.

I have started a small business that has expenses but no profit this year. (such as LLC formation fees).

I however did side computer work and ebay auctions to FUND this business that had profit.

According to the IRS you supposed to file a schedule C for every seperate business. I don't consider the other activities "businesses" though - I only did the "side work" to fund the starup expenses of my new business and transfered the profit to the new business checking account.

So to me it makes sense to consider those side activities just part of my main business, since I transfered all profit to the business and did the work to fund the business.

But is this reasoning sound or does the IRS demand I file seperate schedule C's for each acvitiy period?

If I have a folder of files in a public sub-folder on my website, that is not at all linked from my main site, can they still be found by spiders? I have heard there are some bandwidth thieves that try to find files to link to - and just wondering if it is safe to store them if they are not directly linked to (only accessed via php script indirectly).