clowdy4

3.7

A few weeks ago number 4 tossed a rocker onto the head(second time)(first time number 2). I have replaced the lifters, both banks. But since, I have had an issue with cylinder 2 misfire, at idle only. Will trip a code/ light. When it occurs, shortly after cold start up, when idling down from high idle. There seems to be a slight vibration/ starve for fuel condition. It lasts about 2 seconds, then code light. I have changed the plugs(6), and the coil on number 2 cylinder. Strange to have an issue with 2, when number 4 tossed the rocker.

Note. When changing out the lifters, the battery was disconnected for 3 to 4 hours(change out for new). When the work was completed, there was an erratic shift condition, and torque converter shudder. I took it to transmission shop for a reset/ re-learn.

I could change out the injector on Number 2, but I think I would be wasting my money. There were not any issues with number 2 before tear down.

I get the feeling that when I pulled the old battery out to do the work, then in with the new battery. The flash updates were wiped during reset. Or PCM has/is failed/failing.

Any Idea's. Thanks in advance.

OK. Here is the issue. I have an 08 extended cab. The low beams, good. The high beams, terrible. When I turn on the high beams, sure they reflect the signs off in the distance. But directly in front and closer to the truck, absolutely poor night lighting . Like 2 p_ss holes in the snow. It does not matter how the lights are adjusted, they are poor on the high beam selector. It does not matter which type of bulb I use, they are all the same result. I had an 08 Crew, and lighting was fine, low and high. Anyone have any idea's of what the issue may be. As strange as it may seem, seems like the high's aren't getting the right voltage.

Ok. Not where I should be posting this but, the Dodge Boys know their Stuff.

2000 Bonneville. The car has been choking up(loss of power) now for some time, normally under load at a certain RPM. Have to release then hammer the pedal to the floor to resolve the choking, then it seems to run fine aside from down on power.

Now this is what has me scratching my head. The check engine light has come on, and the scanner points to the EGR Valve stuck open. But.....The car runs great, lots of power, choke and stumble are gone. I installed a new EGR Valve and the car is back to the same old same old. Down on power and choking up and stumbling. In the past year I have replaced. Crank Sensor. Cat. Ignition Module. Coil pack. All parts replaced due to failure. Anyone have any idea's. I am stumped on this one.

Over the course of this summer the ac performance has become poor to non existent. At idle it blows hot air and at high way speeds it just blows cool and not cold. The low pressure line is at 35 pounds and the A/C clutch engages. Though the low pressure line is cool and not cold to the touch(near the dryer). There is not any bearing noise coming from the compressor and seems to be working alright. I converted the refrigerant from R-12 to Red Tech a couple of years ago.

Does anyone have any ideas, any help would be appreciated.

For some time now the gauges have been failing one at a time. One year ago the tach is frozen at 2800 rpm, it will only read higher. Periodically the control centre will flash off and then reappear. Last week I flushed the cooling system, then replaced the thermostat. The temp read after start up read between 90 and 110. I changed out the thermostat again and got the same readings for a day or two, then it failed to read at all. I changed out the temp sending unit and still have a dead gauge. Yesterday the boost gauge is pinned at zero and seems to have gone south as well. The car runs well, but the gauges seem to be failing one at a time. Does anyone have any idea's. Your help would be appreciated.