Perna00

About five or six years ago I dropped a utility knife on my ankle and cut through quite a bit of skin. As it healed, it caused a black mass under my skin that was hard Skin. I had it removed about six months ago and the doctor said I need to go back in again in order for them to cut more tissue out because they think it could be cancerous. They said it came back abnormal… I m a little paranoid to get everything cut open again. What do you think?

Can I create a program (macros) in excel to allow it to run when opened and prompt users for variables which it will plug into preset values to create a base for creating pricing estimates? Also, can I link it to a program in word to create the actual estimate?

I'm redoing an excel program I have to estimating projects. I added some additional lines to my data page to allow me to calculate for more aspects of work. The only problem is that I can only use the data from my old list size. It won't use my new data when it tries to pull values. How can I reprogram it to see all my new lines of data with my old?

I'm got a ford 302 (5.0) in my boat (OMC) and am rebuilding the top end of the engine. I bought replacement flat bottom hydraulic liffers and the new ones I got have a smaller hole in the side and top of the lifter. Is this going to give me any problems or performance issues? I know the boat normally runs 4,200 or less RPMs.

I've got a popping sounds coming back through my intake. I'm going to pull the valve cover to check out the conditions. The engine has lower miles although it was ran hard most of the time. It is a pushrod engine. I should be able to tell if something is bad/sticking at the top end like a broken spring or bent valve. Is this the problem most of the time or do I have to worry about a bad lifter/worn cam? I'm not the most knowledgeable with this engine was curious what other people that know this engine can suggest. Also, can I tell without going deeper into the engine if the cam/lifters are good? Thanks!

I'm converting a garage into a bedroom and bathroom and just have the floor joists installed. Both the floor joists and the ceiling joists run the same direction. I'm going to install a non-load bearing wall for between the rooms and it runs the same direction as the floor & ceiling joists. Should I:

(A) put down my 3/4 osb first and frame to it?

(B) put down cross beams between the joists for top/bottom plate to nail to (if so; how far oc?)

(C) put down cross beams between the joists (how far oc?), install the 3/4 obs, and nail the bottom plate?

Thanks for the advice.

I'm looking into getting an 84' ZX. It needs some work done to it; but the engine is a strong running single turbo 3.0. I've modified a newer eclipse to 20 lbs. of boost ruining 2 engines because of ecu's overriding my tuning and was wondering if this older Z would be a good car to start from. I figure the older programming and easier access to the engine/parts would make this a good project car. The price is $1,200 if I want it, plus it has T-tops. I figure I'd ask to see what I can expect when getting into the performance side of it and if there are any setbacks or limitations to this car/series. Thanks for any info you have.

Currently I do quite a bit of construction work. Some I have subs do (roofing, counter tops,....); most others I do myself (tile, carpentry, paint, drywall). I hold a city business license, city home office license, general liability, and workman's comp. What would be the next steps I should take to make my company larger? I'm not quite big enough to purchase a store front or hire massive amounts of people but would like to prepare for the possibility in the future. Can I register with the state without being a general contractor? Thanks for the help.

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I've got a 96 bayliner with a force 120. It runs very good for me . . . when it does. Lately; I was running it and it cut out on me out of nowhere. I wasn't running it heavily but it acted almost like the key turned off. When I went to start it; it wouldn't start. Would turn over fine, but wouldn't start. I waited about 10-15 minutes and it started up fine. I drove it a while and turned the key off to let someone in and when I went to start it again after about 30 seconds; it wouldn't start. Waited 10 more minutes and it started. I did this for the day and went out again today. The boat started perfectly at the house to clean out the engine and when it was cold and started right up. I drove it for a little bit today and after an hour; I put it into neutral and it stalled out on me. It wouldn't start no matter how long I waited and would only give me a small attempt to start for one or two revolutions after I waited for a while. I don't know what it is.

Here is what I do know... The carbs are clean, the plugs are decently clean; little bit of carbon/oil but wiped off now, fuel bulb keeps pressure and is clean, all fuses are good, the safety switch is functional and doesn't ground out when the key is on, the stator gives me 500 ohms when read (good), the boat will try to start for a second after it sits a while but not every time, I took out the spark plugs and grounded them while turning the key and am not getting any spark from any plug from any coil pack.

Can anyone please help me?

I'm remodeling a home and it has a 24" wide door. The home is completely block and after taking out the door and metal frame will leave me a 28" opening. I was going to cement block it up leaving me with room for 3 rows of glass block above it to reach the top of the opening. I'm new to glass block personally; but I have installed brick, block, tile, and other cement type installation. Does anyone have any advice on how to install them or which way would be best? Also, would I need to build a header for such a small opening if the block is left undamaged above?

I'm remodeling an older home that has a poured slab and block walls. I'm going to have to do quite a bit of trimming out and adding a few ceilings. The only problem is that there is no wood at all (other than the finished ceiling) in the home. I'm not positive, but should I just add a 2x6 or 2x8 bolted to the walls for the side supports for framing the ceiling and liquid nail all the trim around the house? What would be some good idea or things to look out for? Thanks.

Here is the scenario; I got an 03' f-150 truck (4.2) with 125k miles on it. At first the engine would make a whining noise with the a/c on. I know it is not the belt slipping. I thought it was the compressor bearings or belt tensioner. I moved the tensioner while it was spinning and it didn't change the whine. I recently found out that it will also do it w/o the a/c being engaged if I add electrical load to the system (try to put both windows down when they are already down). I'm not sure if it could possibly be the alternator bearings or brushes or if it could be some other problem. Any body got some suggestions?

I've got an 03' f150 with 130k miles. The a/c compressor is starting to while while it is running. The air is still cold though. How much longer do you think it has before it developes a leak or fails? I'm mechanically inclined but never worked on a/c systems. I know I can swap out the compressor easily but what else do I need to do? Some people mentioned changing out driers; which I don't know much about. And I think I'll have to get the system vacuumed and charged at a shop, correct?

I went to a Jamaican restaurant a few days back. It was a very small style restaurant where the owner was the cook, cashier, . . everything. He had a sweet tea he makes that I bought and it had some sort of rum in it. It had to be the best tea I ever had. I was curious what type it probably was. He said it was a family secret recipe and he wouldn't tell me any details. It was mostly tea with a hint of lemon and rum? Any ideas what type of rum (spiced, light, dark, . . ) or the mix?

I'm got an f-150 (2003) and often use it to transport tools, lumber, tile, concrete. . . Often times I max out the weight in the bed to where it has very little clearance and sways badly while driving. I've been told that load springs will help it out but I didn't know anything about them. Will they raise up the truck? What rating/price should I look for? Are they a simple bolt on accessory? Any info is appreciated.

I unthawed some hot dogs about a week ago that do not expire for like 2 months. My question is, does the fact that I froze and then unthawed change that expiration date, or are they still good.

I'm about to build screened in walls around my pool (>16' x >32') and don't want to cover it with a roof because I want to keep the sunlight on it. I'm going to attach it to the house on one side with two of the >16' walls and need to build the >32' off of them. My questions is how should I brace the tops without having a roof? Can I just stagger the 2"x4"s putting two on top, should I put some boards diagonally over the top, is there another way? Thanks!

Right now I got about a 1,250 sq. ft. home. It has a 2.5 ton a/c - heat pump unit now. I'm adding on about 500 sq. ft. of living area and I got 3 different quotes. One is to upgrade to a 3 ton unit ($3,700), one is to add an additional 1.5 ton unit ($3,200), and one is to add a "1 ½ ton Daikin Mini Split" ($2,500)? Are the prices reasonable and what option would be best?

I'm starting to get a little bit larger in construction and was curious how I can register to get invitations to bid on projects. I've gotten a few but didn't know if there was a separate place to register or a way to get more to possibly get more business. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

I've put a bid in on a job to add on a 2nd garage next to an existing one. It requires foundation, framing, and exterior work. The homeowners went to get the permit for it and they need me to come in with a state business license. I've got a city business permit and a county business license; but nothing with the state. Is what I have good enough for a permit? What will I need to get and how long/cost should I expect to have to wait? Can I get around it for now if it takes time to get? Thanks!