larsbullock

It is played whenever there is an exterior shot of Wayne manor or Scotland Yard in the old Batman sitcom episodes. Clark Griswold is also heard whistling it in National Lampoon’s European Vacation when they were in the English hotel.

I want to cut a curve on my laminate countertop. The extra edge strip that it came with is much thinner than the laminate of the existing edge. Once I cut and sand the curve, how to I apply the edge strip over the cut curve so it blends in with the existing edge strip where the edge is straight? Not where the edge meets the top. 

I want to cut a curve on my laminate countertop. The extra edge strip that it came with is much thinner than the laminate of the existing edge. Once I cut and sand the curve, how to I apply the edge strip over the cut curve so it blends in with the existing edge strip where the edge is straight? Not where the edge meets the top. 

I have an Ikea laminate countertop that I want to put a rounded corner on. I was thinking about fastening a jig to the other side where it would pivot on a screw allowing me to cut a perfect radius. Should I use this jig with my router or a jigsaw? 

I tried using a plywood blade since it had fine teeth; but when I would try to cut a straight line using a jig, the blade would curve into the jig bending it, rendering a crooked cut before jamming up against the jig.

The countertop is one piece poured in place. It is L-shaped so it will have to be removed in pieces to get it out my door. It is about 2" thick, reinforced only with fiberglass mesh that can be cut with scissors. It is secured by attaching a cement board form base to the cabinet tops with blots of silicon caulk.

I'm installing a glass mosaic tile kitchen backsplash. The tiles are sheets of 1"x 2" subway. The hand troweled concrete countertop has an un-even surface. It slopes down 1/4" deep across a 2ft stretch leaving a 4ft wide low spot.

I am considering:

A. Trace the countertop's edge profile with a scribe against the tile sheets then cut the tiles accordingly.

B. Using mortar, build a 3" high backslash with a level edge.

C. Using mortar to to fill in the low spots alone the back edge of the countertop.

D. Another suggestion.

Any tips on how to go about it would be greatly appreciated.

In cell b5 of a spreadsheet a numerical value is displayed. It can be either a positive or negative value. In cell c6, I want do display the value of b5 if it is a positive number and blank if it is negative.

I m trying to do a hard wired install for some LED light strips. The 24 volt LED transformer is wired to a 20 amp circuit controlled by a Lutron dimmer switch. The dimmer switch and the 20 amp gfci outlet are independently connected to the circuit (as opposed to the power being fed to the switch by the gfci). Whenever I flip the transformer s switch on (before the LED strip is connected), the gfci gets tripped. When I disconnect the transformer, this doesn t happen.

Someone on facebook recently posted a pic, instructing the viewer to "like" and type the number 6 to see what happens. I followed the instructions and nothing happened (as I suspected). I've seen many other posts lke this in the past. Is this just a ploy to get people to "like" and respond? Are they just trying to clog facebook's server?

My new kitchen sink came with a drain basket that is plastic.

The floor in one room is perfectly level. Outside the 3' wide entry way is the hallway which is slightly crooked. In the entry way, where the two floors meet, the floors are offset by 1/4" on the left side, and flush with each other on the right side of the entry way. Leveling the hallway is not an option. The floor in the room is cork, the floor in the hallway is laminate, if that makes a difference.

The concrete floor is 6'x10' and crooked. The high spot is in the corner. From there it slants down about 1" to the near corner. The floor also slopes down another 1.5" to the far opposite corner leaving a hump in the middle of the floor and rendering a low spot about 2.5" below grade in that corner. I've seen a how to video where rails are cut from 2x4s to the contour of the floor then self leveling compound is poured in and screeded over them. Another approach someone told me is to screed with mortar. I'm not sure on how to to go about feathering it to the high spot using mortar. Self leveling compound can't go deeper than 1" unless it is extended with gravel. Going 1" at a time with self leveling compound isn't practical because each layer would have to be profiled and primed. What is the best approach?

I am remodeling my tiny 7x10 kitchen and would like to prepare my subfloor for bamboo flooring. I busted out the old floor tiles and ground down the adhesive removing it to the point where there are just a few remaining visible spots resembling stains left. Aside from the 1/8" variances in depth across the entire floor, the floor itself is slanted down about 1.25" deep from level to one of the corners. A level floor would be nice, but flattening it is my priority. Do I use a mortar/patch mix, self leveling compound, or both? How would I go about it?

I recently attempted to repair a dripping faucet due to a worn seat in my Delta faucet's hot water valve stem by replacing the stem with its seat and spring. I've replaced them 3 times within the last couple of weeks. Each time it would leak again within a few days of it being repaired, as the result of the seat being cracked or torn after a only a few days of use. What could be causing this to happen?