Stephen Cheatley

In the past whenever I have upgraded my PC I have always had to make a new email address. I desperately need to upgrade now, but I can't afford to change my email address again.

I would also like to keep the emails I already have.

What would be the easy way to go about this. Thanks.

I've been after a 16-35mm f/4 VR for a while now, but trying to get one is like attempting to purchase weapons grade plutonium.

I thought I may give the 20mm AF-D as a stop gap. Does anyone have any knowledge of this lens?

I'm ok for AF. All my bodies have in built in AF.

....has an effect on the Cassini Division. I'm sure I saw somewhere about some moon which possibly caused the gap.

I had a quick look through the menus & the manual. I assumed that DX mode could be assigned to the fn button, for example. Maybe I missed something.

I have recently upgraded from a Nikon D300 to a D3. I was wondering what sort of CF cards I should get, so I can get speedy performance without breaking the bank.

I currently have a few 4gb Sandisk Ultra II's (15mb/s), though I doubt these are up to it. I'm not sure how big the D3 buffer is, off hand.

I do a lot of birding, so I usually use a fast frame rate. 6-8 fps.

Can anybody tell me the arrival time & departure time for flight EK017 Emirates Airbus A380 at Manchester?

I've read the timetable but its all gobbledygook to me. I think it's 11.45 & 13.30 but not dead sure.

Does anybody know a realistic price to remove a broken ignition barrell & replace with a used spare.

The vehicle is a 12 year old Peugeot 306. My friend was quoted £120, which I thought was dear.

UK GBP please.

I'm trying to think of an early nineties PC adventure game.

All I can remember is the words "Want some Rye?", "Course ya do"

Orange told me when I negotiated a new mobile phone plan that they could switch me to their broadband package. They said it would be much cheaper and I would get £50 cash back if I took it up.

I've been with Virgin Media for about 10 years now, and no major problems. Would it be worth considering a move.

A cable snapped on one side of my garage door making it very difficult to open and close.

The cable is very similar to a brake or gear cable on a bicycle. It wraps around the edge of a long coiled spring which spans the top of the door. The cable then hooks onto one of the runner wheel brackets on the side of the door.

The cable on the other side is intact but would probably need replacing at the same time.

I've never done anything like this before so if anyone knows how to replace the cables I would be grateful.

I have a Nikon SB800dx on a D7000 and I also have a YN560 which I want to use as part of a multiflash setup.

I've not done much CLS at all, so I'm not sure if I can getaway with using the YN560 with a shutter speed higher than the 1/320 sec in auto fp mode.

I will only be using it for delicate fill in light with a balanced background with shutter speeds between 1/320 and 1/750.

Will I get noticeable banding? I may need to experiment.

My landscape photography is probably average, I know a few tricks but have never bothered to use them. I want to put more of an effort in to get the best image possible, so any photoshop work is kept to a minimum.

I'm not using a Hasselblad H4d-60 or a Pentax 645d, I'm not THAT serious.Just a 35mm dslr.

I have a few filters at my disposal. An NDx400, ND8, a polariser and a Cokin square (p series) ND grad, to name a few.

I want to make sure my photos have more punch, mainly. More vivid colour, to jump out.

Here is a typical standard shot with no filters or any special effects, the type of shot I want to improve. Just which way to go about it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59251448@N04/65565151...

Thanks in advance.

I was wondering if I could use 2 ND8's on a Nikkor 17-55mm 2.8 for DX, using the wide end? Thats crop factor of 1.5

If danger of vignetting I will get a stronger ND and just use one, but the 8's are the strongest I have at the moment.

Or can I get just as good a third party one, say YN?

Excuse me if this is a rather daft question. I have not done any tests with lenses to try this out, but I was wondering if the bigger glass on, say a 300mm f2.8 set to f5.6 would still help to create deeper bokeh than a cheapo 300mm f5.6 lens at max aperture.

I have a Canon EOS-1n and, unfortunately, only a cheapo 28-90mm EF lens to go with it.

It does not look right, I know. This beast deserves better.

But is this lens fully compatible with DSLR'S?

I had a Nikon d300 with 18-200mm vr and an mb-d10 stolen.

I have, however, since replaced all of these with cash, but I now have the good problem of thinking what to spend the voucher on, which was provided through my house insurance.

Equipment which I currently, mainly use is a d7000, 18-200mm vr, 70-200 2.8 vr i, 17-55mm 2.8 and an sb800 flash.

I'm thinking along the lines of another body, say d5100, ( I do generally use 2 bodies ). A powerful telephoto, say Sigma 150-500mm OS. I maybe need another flash, for CLS.

Apart from a broad section of photography, I have recently taken up Astrophotography and Bird Photography.

I've been doing some quite long exposures recently with the camera on a tripod. I also do time lapse photos with the intention of stacking images, for star trails.

I do have two tripods, both made by Manfotto. One is a professional 055 model and the other is a lighter 190 model.

I've heard that hanging weights from the tripod can help stability.

Can anyone confirm this, also, would there be any special fitting on the tripod for this.

I've never really got into flash photography more than for portraits. I've done a few weddings for friends down the years and use an on camera Nikon SB800dx on my slr's. Using multiflash has evaded me.

I've recently got into photographing birds and I would like a reasonable setup of maybe a couple of small low power flashguns which I can run as slaves.

I have a hotshoe mounted slave unit which may work if it is compatible.

Does anybody know an inexpensive way to go about this. I don't mind being creative, or having to improvise.