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What would cause this?

When I start the car sometimes(Mainly in the morning), The car revs high, then cuts off. Once I get it started and it warms up, It runs fine. Alternator? Idle Air Control valve? O2 Sensor?

No catalytic converter.

Bought a MX-6 and it was delivered with a cracked head(When we looked at it, it ran and drove fine, sounded flawless)

Anyway, Got the car back to the house after a month, Bought a new head, gasket kit, head bolt set, water pump and timing belt kit. Only reason I got the timing belt and water pump is because we had a civic that had a warped head, because of a bad water pump & eventually the belt snapped. Figured I would go ahead and replace that just too make sure thats not why the head cracked.

I would just like to know, What are some reasons why your MX head cracked. Or what are some things to look out for while changing the head and water pump?

I know its not gonna be too much different than working on a civic, its a 4 cyl. But everything is backwards. Its like going from Chevy 350sb to Pontiac 400bb, Everything is opposite. Its uncharted areas to me.

(1994 Civic EX D16Z6 - Vtec & 1997 Civic DX D16Y7 - nonVtec)

(I know the nonVtec & Vtec distributors are diff, But the coils are the same exact part number.)

We have tried 2 brand new coils, and a few used on the 97, none of them worked. Tried the 94's coil on the 97, It worked. Well eventually the 97 stopped working along with the 93. Like the 97 fried all the coils in the process. Thus, one of the fried coils, fried something else?

Once my car(94 EX) started doing what my GF's car was doing to the coils. I figured it was a distributor. Replaced the distributor in my car & at the first roll over, I got about 2 fires, then its stopped. Fried Coil.

Does anyone know what this could be? Ever had it happen to them? Or have a blueprint/diagram of the Distributors wiring harness? I am willing to test a few things, but I don't want to trace wires through out the entire car.

We have tried 2 brand new coils, and a few used on the 97, none of them worked. Tried the 94's coil on the 97, It worked. Well eventually the 97 stopped working along with the 93. Like the 97 fried all the coils in the process. Thus, one of the fried coils, fried something else?

Once my car(94 EX) started doing what my GF's car was doing to the coils. I figured it was a distributor. Replaced the distributor in my car & at the first roll over, I got about 2 fires, then its stopped. Fried Coil.

Does anyone know what this could be? Ever had it happen to them? Or have a blueprint/diagram of the Distributors wiring harness? I am willing to test a few things, but I don't want to trace wires through out the entire car.

My car: 1994 Civic EX (D16Z6 Vtec) GF's car: 1997 Civic DX (D16Y7 non-Vtec)

(I know that Vtec and nonVtec Distributors are different, But the ignition coils inside them have the same exact part number.)

First the back story: GF's car needed Tranny and Ignition coil. Replaced them, Car wouldnt start. Put my ignition coil in it, it started(Tranny still had problems so I had to put it back in mine). Used my car for a day and got more tranny fluid. bought a new coil, Put the two on/in & the car still dont start. Put mine back in to test her car, still problems, put mine back in my car. Returned the new one, bought another from a different store. Nothing, didnt start. Put mine in her car, didnt start. So basicly I have like 4 non working coils, Which 1(2) were brand new.

Okay. . . Whole new distributor? Great it arrived! Put my distributor on my car, went to roll it over...

Fired about 2 or 3 times, then it went to doing what it was(Even rotated the distributor 180 degrees and tried again.). HMMMMMMM Gah man what could this be? Im sick of dropping $1k's into these cars & they just mess up.(especially hers, This is the first major problem on my car rather than CV axles) Which if you havent noticed, It seems the original coil & the ones that didnt work in her car, messed mine up, making it do the same thing as hers. Which makes us completely fry the coils, if not other things.

We've tried different ECU's in her car before this, and her current one is "new" so I dont think would be the ECU, that caused the problem. Also, Her car had Vehicle Speed Sensor problems(Speedometer & Bucking, which made the tranny go out I would say) In anyway is that linked to the distributor? I cant see that with a non-vtec, but maybe my car would. Which also had a Tach problems.(Not often, but sometimes out of no where my Tachometer would just drop, or not work when I first start up. But it would always kick back in and work for a long time.)

Bless you if you read all that Lmao Now help me =D

Can you put a 2.0 head on a 2.2 block? Or is their any difference?

I know Civics 1.5 head is compatable with the 1.6, & actually has a more aggressive cam.

Anyone know about the MX6?

I have a B4RA Transmission I am swapping(with another B4RA) transmission. I have never messed with a 4cyl engines transmission. Only V8, Never noticed innards of a torque converter wiggling. Figured I would see if that is normal. Perhaps that is why the car wouldn't move. Once I emptied the fluid out of it, and picked it up. Noticed the clunking sound.

Also, Is their risks from using the torque converter from one used tranny, on another. The guy I got the tranny from said he wouldn't, But I don't quite got the money for a new converter. I also now I have swapped 700R4's(SB Chevy tranny's) and re-used converters. No problems there.

Does that little guard that bolts to the tranny, but runs behind the flywheel, NEED to be there?? I see no specific use for it & it just complicates lots of things.(Not to mention I kinda mangled it while trying to get the tranny to break loose from the motor, Worried it may leave a horrid grinding noise or something.)

Last thought, Do I need to fill the torque converter with transmission fluid before I put it on, Or when we shift through the gears at first, it'll work its way in? Never done a front wheel drive. . .

Any other thoughts and things to watch out for?

Ok, the speedometer had messed up so I changed the transmission fluid, Along with a new VSS. Well it fixed it some what... The speedo only jumped when decellerating. I noticed when I cut on the turning signals the needle goes crazy compared to what it normally did. Also the faster I go, the more the speedo variates. Normally 5-10mph difference from actuall speed. Before I put the new VSS on the VSS code OBD gave me said VSS malfunction/broken now with the new one it says VSS A Range/Performance. Others on Y! Answers suggested taking it off and re-tightening it. I did, No difference.

So really what my question is, Could this be wiring problems? The car has over heated before, But it ran fine after words, Gave it a Timing belt kit and water pump kit. Car ran fine. Or could this be some "Remanufactured/New" part problem. . . The car does had JDM header and SRI performance head(milled/port n polish), plugs, wires, distributor. Could the VSS have read A range/performance since I started building it and it just trashed out along the way, and this one is doing the same? For some reason of the Aftermarket parts? No clue where to begin if its not VSS...

1997 Civic DX D16Y7 Automatic Transmission.

(This car does have performance parts(Head, Header, SRI, Exhaust, & Plenty of Replaced parts.))

IAC valve has been malfunctioning since we got it. Doesnt really effect much.

O2 sensors malfunctioning. Same ole same ole.

When we replaced the head we got a manufacturer OBD code for cam displacement. Did a few tweak and it went away.

So thats 2-3 OBD errors. Car had driven fine for quiet a while. Eventually started loosing power, then one day the speedometer started going crazy. Then the transmission started bucking/jerking when trying to shift gears. Let it sit while at work, then when I had a chance to look at it, I drove it home and on the way D4 started flashing on the dash. So I used D3. Let it sit over night, Moved the car the next day & D4 was fine. Speedometer still acts crazy. Car still jerks here and there.

OBD scanner then gives me like 13 Error codes. My oh gee, No way they all could have gone bad that fast. Bought an ECU, Didnt change anything. Speedometer wasnt working as much perhaps? Still jumped around of course. After I changed the ECU, OBD scanner gave me like 8 errors. Ok. . .

VSS seems to be a reasonable problem. Replaced it, Worked . . . ok . . . for a few seconds. Back to the same jerking/bucking. So I decided to flush the transmission and all that. Car drives 100% better, Speedometer works decently untill about 20-25 Mph then it jumps. Car barely jerks/bucks anymore, Normally only happens now, when you get on the accelerator. Transmission mount is intact, kinda dry rotted, but the other 2 are brand new. So that shouldnt be a problem with the jerk. Its more than less, the cars RPMs jumping around when it happens.

I have no clue what else it could be. Do I have to replace a transmission, or should I just be looking for a new Honda? Lol this time a standard.

1997 Civic DX D16Y7 Motor. Automatic. One day my cars speedometer started to whack out and flick back and forth every where, constantly. Went to work thinking I'd have a little problem to fix. Got in to get lunch, The car was jerking back and forth like it was low on transmission fluid. I checked it was fine, Looked brand new, Standard level. So I finished work and what not. Went home, on the way home the Drive 4 light was flashing constantly, even when I was driving in Drive 3. Got it home, parked it.

Next day I had to move it.

It was fine, Speedometer stopped moving over all. Drive four no longer flashes, Car doesn't jerk. Whats up?

Got a 1993 Civic EX ( D16Z6 ) Burns very little oil, Planned on taking out the engine and replacing all the bearings & seals. Getting new rods & pistons. I did research myself & found my suggested pistons & head.

Pistons:

I find P29 & PM7's to be most logical since their dome ( High compression ) pistons. P29 would be my first choice, their more common in choice it seems.

Head:

PM9 ( JDM D15B V-tec head ) I hear is the same as the P08 ( D16Z6 ) head just has a more aggressive cam. Also I hear theirs few different styles of the PM9 ( ?1stage - 3stages of vtech? ) Which with the D15B 3 Stage V-tech head is supposed to be like 30+ hp. Hence the car its from ( EK3 ) has 150HP so I hear.

I cannot be sure, I would like your help. What is the best set up for a D16Z6 block?

I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX. It has had overheating problems. I have replaced the thermostat, water pump, plugs, wires, distributor and such. Radiator seems to be fine so I am not replacing that. I cant tell if the head gasket is blown. The car itself runs fine, poor starting aside(water is getting into the cylinders) Or if the head itself is cracked/warped or something. I can get a LX head for cheap so I figured id ask if it would fit & see if anyone has any suggestions of stuff that may fix it. (Overheating, bad starting but that's from water getting in the cylinders which id imagine is from the head and/or valves)