james

im just slightly bored so seeing if any one has same idea as me, i have a 96 dodge ram, only on very cold days the very first start of the day my starter makes a very loud whirrrrrr noise.. not really grinding just a loud whirrrr noise like its spinning but it didnt engage the teeth? im assuming i just need to replace the starter after inspecting the fly wheel teeth first of course but i dont think the teeth are hurt because i have heard grinding many times before and this isnt really grinind its more of a starter just spinning i think. im not positive until i look at it haha. or do you all think ill be replacing the fly wheel also? it never ever has issues starting except on super cold days on the very first start only... all i do is let off the key and hit it again and it has no issues after the first try. and its a new battery brand new.. new alternator i just changed them before winter since alternator went out and my battery was still under waranty i figured why not replace it for free while i was at it hahahahaha. i work on vehicles quiet often, i know vehicles, im just too lazy to get under it in this weather right now... garage is full of wifes car.

i have a dodge ram truck 318, im looking for exhaust guy s to help me out with the sound im looking for... its hard to explain of course, but the ford mustangs with x-pipe and a flowmaster muffler have this different very mean sounding rumble... its hard to explain... how do i get that on my dodge? do not tell me its not possible because i have seen 2 dodges with it which is whats sparking me to find out there setup... they was driving by so i didnt get the chance to ask.... assumingly id have to get a x-pipe but what else?

is this normal for a dodge.... basicly my iod (ignition off draw) fuse blows instantly some times and other times it last till it sits over night... im tired of chasing wires down to find the problem... so I ran a power wire to the radio that is just on and off with ignition key so that it can still play.. because iod only controls (all time power) obvious that means things that get power when key is off.... anyway when I put a fuse in iod fuse spot my back speakers work but are much louder than the front... but when there is no fuse in then they do not work at all... can any one tell me why? all I can think of is if there is a amp in my truck some where that I didn't know about.... this is a factory radio.. looked like factory harness.... didn't look tampered with. im confused about all of this. the radio functions perfectly except the back speakers... as I said the power wire that comes from iod fuse has been cut from the radio I ran my own power..... so how can it still be affecting my speakers unless it has a amp some where? if it has a amp they did a professional job at hiding it... ive looked at battery and I don't see any wires ran to it.... I don't see any wires going to the radio that's tampered with.... they had to cut into the wires some where.... this is driving me nuts. if there is a amp id rather remove it and sell it lol. the back speakers are louder than the front....

i have a weed eater brand push mower... im not one to normaly need help I know engines very well and do my own work on everything but recently have took on a few lawn mower projects and one is this mower... so far ive got it running it had a sheared fly wheel key. while its running the idle is hunting up and down.. the governor/throttle is controlled by wind off the fly wheel so it shouldn't be fluctuating. springs are all brand new. I have already put on a carburetor and gas tank assymbly from another lawn mower that was identicle and it did not make a difference. my next issue is when going to pull start it, it will litteraly lock up and about pull ur arm out all of a sudden.. if I pull the spark plug out I have no issues... I took the head off and inspected it but it looked okay. everything moved as it should be. its easy to turn and pull till it gets to about two different spots and if u pull it fast it will about yank ur arm out lol. once it gets past the hard spots then pull it fast I can get it to start. I don't understand the problem... im more concerned with the pull start issue than the engine hunting... back to the info.. I replaced the fly wheel key but while its running it still sounds like the ttiming might be off a little cause I here quiet back fire type noises but its very quietly. im wandering if the crank is bent but im not sure if that would cause the hard pulling only at certain points and as I said its fine when the plug is out

i have a 1641 cub cadet with vansguard v-twin engine, its driveshaft driven. I got it used and not running, I have since got engine going but driveshaft was bad so am getting another... but my questions are this... is the brake suppose to operate clutch on engine also?? something has to cut it off so when im sitting still the engine can turn while the transmission sits still... im confused how they work... currently mine is only hooked up to the brakes.. it does not run to the engine for the clutch.. I don't no how lawn mowers work so please help me... and yes ive researched it a lot but get no answers cause cub cadets are different with electric clutch, pto stuff.... I just don't understand how it works... I cant hold the tractor still while in gear if the brake isn't cutting the drive shaft off from continuing trying to move... if any one has a picture to show me how it should be hooked up please do... I need help.

just curious how we are getting free channels? we use to have Comcast tv. recenetly been shut off for billing issues, but when I plugged in my box today I was expecting the basic local channels but im picking up hbo, cinemax... you name it I have every channel, (more than ive ever had even when paying for tv) so whats the catch lmao, I no there not giving me a free trial considering I just got shut off and ive tried other tvs in my house this is the only one getting free channels lol. Is my box malfunctioning giving me free channels? haha

okay well I took it apart cause of its having issues... it messes up in the screen... it starts going crazy blinking and messing pic up and the colors... when I took it apart I found so much dust I couldn't see the boards and the fans were also filled with dust.. so I cleaned it. also ccleaned my screen cause dust was causing black dots.... but when I put it back together it seems to work fine but it still tried to mes up.. the color went crazy for a minute but it quickly fixed itself this time... so do I need to clean it more or do I have another problem? I believe my color wheel is fine cause it does not whine or make any od noises, it sounds normal. plus I no it works cause it has a perfect picture any time its not messing up... and it must be spinning at proper rpm other wise the lamp would not light so I believe my color wheel is fine... it also has a issue of when I push to power off my tv it turns off and screen goes black but if I look at the back of tv the lamp stays on very dimly.... if I look at the front of it the green light flashes until it finaly shuts down many minutes later... like 10 to 15 minutes later im not sure on exact times........ so what would stop it from powering down and wht could be causing my tv to mess up during operation sumtimes? it has gotten better since I cleaned it....

i want to start with.. please do not be read and tell me to just get a new tv.... I have a spare tv im using for parts its identicle! and I got this tv for free.. basicly heres the story.... I got the tv for free it did not work. so I investigated it and found a blown lamp. I replaced it and it turned right on and has a superb picture except some faint black dots that are so small and faint that u don't see them except on a white screen so I figured it may just need a good cleaning... anyway It was on for about a hour and the color started to fade and the picture messed up a bit.. it kinda almost went black and white. then the lamp flickered off and on,.. and finaly the lamp turned off and did not turn back on till the tv itself shut off... then I tried to turn it back on but no luck only the sound came on but no picture. so I thought again this was a issue with the lamp meaning most likely it had a faulty ballast board over powering the lamp. well I let the tv sit for about 20 minutes and out of curiousity I went ahead and tried to turn it back on.. and to my surprise it turned on with no issues!! the color and everything worked fine. so I just turned it off till I can figure out whats wrong with it. so I need idea's what to replace. im not going to replace every part I want to actualy replace the bad part. i been thinking possibly the color wheel since first of all it had a color mess up and picture mess up... it possibly could have faulty bearings cause i no if bearings are going bad and they got hot from spinning it will cause it to slow down or freeze up... and i no the color wheel must spin at a certain rpm... maybe its not spinning fast enough.... but then i think about the black dots.. and i no that is a sign of a dmd board failing... or this could be a power issue. i no the tv sends signal to dmd.. from dmd to color wheel.. from color wheel to ballast board to the lamp.... soooo since the lamp didn't light that means ballast didn't get power... plus i didn't hear it click like it does when it trys to start as normal projection models do.. its a normal click the ballast board makes.. (i no projection model TV's) since ballast didn't get power that means the color wheel probably etheir didn't get power or it didn't spin fast enough... i no all problems seem to lead to color wheel but every one ive talked to and read about says a faulty color wheel will have a squeal or squeak when there bad or going bad... it will make a slightly loud noise.. mine is very quiet and has a perfect picture so it makes me feel like the color wheel is not the issue.... the black dots could mean the dmd is failing and power goes through the dmd so it all could be linked that way.. or it could be a power issue in general which could have caused the color wheel to malfunction and all that.... so i need to no opinions... is it color wheel, dmd board, power supply???? cause of all the facts it makes me wanna blame color wheel but at the same time as i pointed out it does not have any normal signs of failure.. no squealing and it has a perfect picture other than the fainted out black dots... i no the dots are signs of dmd board failure.. i no a power failure obviously would mess with all of this.. but at the same time this works fine after it sits awhile... so if it was a power issue why does it affect it after a hour or what not of use? it don't make sense... so that makes me really lean at the dmd board again...

i have a window a/c unit... basicly the problem is the fan turns off... i was told it could mean the bearings or what not are bad so when it gets hot it gets to hard to turn... welll thats not my problem.. even after it shuts off the motor is not hot and it turns very freely and i tested it.. it is not getting power... so what can cut off power to the fan.. i even tested it without a/c on... i had it in fan mode.. it does the same thing. it shuts off and i turn it off... it wont turn back on for a few minutes i have to let it sit and then turn the switch back on... so what can cut power off to the fan??? thats all i need really... im about to just splice into a wire and run direct poweer to the fan.. ive done it before to a a/c unit haha/.. and it has been tested for freon the freon is fine... and if the a/c is on when the fan shuts offf the compressor stays on haha. ,my only problem is the fan.. i need to find out what can cut the power to my fan and why is it doing it lol

i was correct when i dropped the pan today i saw my second band weight laying jarring my gears to whear it couldnt shift into park... so i pulled it out and it works fine now. the problem is now my tranny wont last long, i was gonna drop the valve body and put it back in but the weight was broke and i figure ill just replace the tranny when the time comes. the funny thing is it dont even slip it shifts perfectly and pulls fine.. i can spin the tires off in drive or reverse haha and as i said it shifts fine and pulls fine.. i guess time will tell. i no i should put a weight back on but i dont want to drop it alll again iim too busy and i fifgure it will last a month or two atleast. so thanks for all the help.

some guy came to me today and said the neutral safety switch is whats keeping my transmission from going into park.. i almost busted up laughing... correct me if im wrong but any ns switch ive ever seeen all it does basicly is tell ur engine when it can start.. its for safety it says hey im in neutral or hey im in park!! how can it stop u from going into park if the transmission itself will not go into park??? thats a funny joke to me. sounds pretty dumb. correct me if im wrong on that??? and no its not my linkage ive checked, its internal problems in my transmission.. im loooking at a anchor thats fell blocking my shift linkage internaly cause it happens quiet often in a dodge ram... or it could be the pin broke but i dont think so for the fact that i never do the rolling stop crud im very gentle about it so its more likely to be just jammed up... my problem is ive never rebuilt a transmission yet and i dont know how to remove this anchor so i can atleast use park cause the truck is actualy running perfectly fine and shifting okay.

well i decided to adjust the tranny throttle cable.. aka kick down.. it has more functions then i realized in my dodge as i got researching it... so i readjusted it and now its shifting perfect every time on the dime... it can be adjusted to shift sooner or later just by that cable i was shocked but it works haha.. so for now its shifting very perfect and smooth... next problem still is it will not go into park.. it goes half way then some thing is stopping it... i unhooked my shifting linkage and manualy moved it by hand and it will not go... so its in the tranny positively... its the only gear that wont go... i looked it up online and there is a weight that could have fell offf and got stuck and its common in dodges to do exactly that block my park shifting... so im thinking thats my issue but im taking all ideas into consideration before buying a filter kit to pull tranny pan off to look at it.. i dont wanna do it will im more positive thats what it is... i really hate if it is cause my tranny is strong and for this to happen that means its really wore out from what i read? but my tranny is strong and shifts good now and it pulls hard.. i can bark the tires off of it and the rpms never get over 1500 with normal driving.. rpms stay low.. ive had bad trannys before and when there bands are bad and slipping u no it... now i just gotta see whats up with my park.. i hate having to chock the wheels and unplug my battery (if i dont unplug battery it sets a alarm off for not being in park..) it also wont start in park cause its not really in park i have to use neatrual... that all makes sense except why it wont go in park.. and its definately a problem inside my transmission i checked that much out today (freezing my butt off)

i have a problem it wont go into park and it has a second problem that its having flunctuating shifting out of first gear... i no what slipping and sticking valves is ive had many trucks... but this is different ud have to see it to no what i mean.. so guys with expierience whats the cause? this all happened exact same time so its related to each other. my truck has a strong transmission never missed a beat then suddenly it wont shift out of first gear unless i put it in neautrual for a slight second and back to drive then it works every time... but most of the time it will shift its just flunctuating... some times it shifts early and perfect... some times it shifts later rpms will hit 3000... when it dont shift at all it dont matter wether u let off gas.. give it gas.. punch it... it dont matter what u do it will not shift when it completely dont want to till u put it in neatrual for a split secoond... all in the same day it will not go into park now... i can get it (forcebly) close enough that it catches it from rolling and i can pull my key out cause im forcing it... but its not really in park and i got to unhook the battery cause obviously the horn goes off after a time frame cause its not in park really.. and obviously the safety neatrual switch wont let it start unless i move it to neautral now cause its not going into park.... so whats the issue that relates them together.... ive been researching the shift cable could be causeing the irratic shifting and if it gets hung up same as breaking.. it wont let u put it in park.. like if the cable breaks while in first gear it willl not let u put it in park after that.. my cable isnt broke i looked at it but i havent did anything yet to test it out. ive also been told there is a weight that could have fell in my pan stopping me from hitting park... but that dont explain the shifting... for them to be linked together it seems like it might be the cable. but im looking for all input before replacing parts, do not tell me my tranny is shot and blah blah cause its not, its strong. these are minor issues that can be fixed with some common knowledge and parts. ive also been told it could have something to do with shift solenoid and pressure sensor but that one wasnt as sure.. i dont see how that could affect my park and all other gears shift perfect every time... its only coming out first gear i had a issue and its not slipping.. and even if it has symptoms of sticking valve i dont think thats it for the fact this all happened at the exact same day and this tranny is strong and always has been and it works off and on.. it temperature dont matter.. it can be hot or cold and u never know if it will work or not it takes it by spells, it shifts when it wants to out of first gear or it dont shift at all and i got to use the neautral thing to get it to shift. (ive never heard of sticking valves be fixed just by using neautral for a split second and back to drive) and no its not cause i let off gas which let it shift cause i thought of that already and have tried letting off the gas it wont shift when it wont shift no matter what u do

my dodge is going crazy/.. read very carefully before replying so i get real answers and not retarded ones that are irrelevant, my dodge ram statrted out that it will not shift out of first gear... it dont matter if u go easy or gun it or let off gas it will hit 5000rpm and never shift... then a hour later it works perfectly fine again... (do not tell me its the bands slipping cause im very familiar wirth cars and this tranny is no were near that bad its strong and when it shifts right it dont miss a beat... it takes it by spells it dont always mess up.. my next problem is randomly out of the blue today it wasnt shifting and when i parked it would not go into park!!! i hit the break... it wiould not go... i can force it up to were it just barely catches in park but it holds it but it will not start in park i have to put it in neatrual to start it... then when i get home while cooking dinner my horn goes off for no reason at all and itr will not shut off... no lights was on.. key wasnt in it.. i had to undo the battery to get it to shut up... also to ad to alll of this my steering wheel; stopped locking when key is off.. this all happened in onre day.... what the he;lll is wrong witrh it????

i am wanting to take a sprint 4g lte phone and use it on verizon. any guides? do not tell me its not possible cause yes it is u just gotta no ur stuff cause i have seen it. it is possible its just not legal as far as im aware of but i could care less about whats legal alot of people do this. so how do i flash my phone for verizon use? i get pretty basic knowlledge of it and i have rooted phones and reprogrammed other phones before but i havent tried verizon yet. this will be a new fun task for me. again ive seen it done so i dont need any one to tell me it cant be done blah blah blah. my friend did a sprint phone one time to verizon but he is pulling my leg on how to do it lol he is telling me all he did was buy a brand new unactivated verizon 4g lte sim card and of course he already had the phone unlocked and all that crud and anyway he put the sim card in and it instantly just asked for a sim unlock code so he put the code in and it worked after that... it cant be that easy i aint stupid other wise there wouldnt be any need for flashing and there is alot of topics about flashing sprint phones to verizon so it cant be as easy as he says.. considering he done it i can get help later but i wanna try to show him up and do it on my own so if u have knowledge of this please let me no. if u have no idea then dont respond cause again yes this can be done! i dont need to hear what the carriers use and what u can and cannot do.... my friend can flash most phones to verizon from sprint...

if ur wandering why i dont just buy a proper phone??? cause all verizon phone eat crap! but they have the best network around where i live none of the others work around here. verizon is all i can use and i already no which phone i want... just give me basic guides about flashing to verizon i dont wanna give out info what phone im using cause i dont want eevry one going out doing this. lets just say verizon does not have any phone like this,... nothing even close to it lol its like the only one that dont have it basicly....

my friend says all my tv lamps are bad for my projection model tv... i bought it and it came with 2 (brand new lamps but have been installed) he said they was new but didnt fix the problem and so i figured they was good so i went onto checkng my ballast board wghich had a few bad spots in it. bad diode and r3 piece was bad. i repaired and it still didnt work so i just bought a new one online and it stil dont work so my buddy decides to check the lamps and he ran direct electricity to the plug ins cause it has a hot wire and ground wire just like any light bulb and id assume it should have turned on but yet none of them did.... can they be tested this way or not??? m thinking this guy was taklking crap the bad ballast board was blowing these supposed new lamps as fast as he put them in im assuming and now i just need a new onwe... am i wrong here?? can the lamp be tested that way? it makes since in my head cause i no it gets power to turn on so by running direct power to them same wires it bypASSES everything else even if its bad idea or might blow the bulb it should have turned on for a second atlweast. im just checking if im right about this... this is putting a sour taste in my mouth... if he hadnt told me they was new i would hacve replaced it the first time and qyickly found out about the ballast board as well.. now i waisted alot of time and money putting ballast in working order and then just buying new one! they aint cheap....

i bought this tv knowingly it didnt work... and it came with some new lamps the previous owner tried hoping it would fix it.. they bought two cause of the possiblility of the first new one could be faulty... u always get bad parts even new ones some times.. well its unlikely for two new ones plus the old one to be bad... so my next guess is the ballast board is bad or the light engine/color wheel stuff. well my buddy told me that if u have a bad ballast board your lamp will still show a spark or a light lite when it is trying to lite and if thats the case mine does not! when mine is trying to light u can here it... the fan turns on and u can hear fast clicking sound but the lamp does nothing at all and it does this for awhile trying over and over and it finaly just shuts off and stops trying.... sooo is what he said true/// i need to no so i no wether to replace my ballast board or my light engine unit... like i said my lamp does nothing at all but i can hear it trying to light.. u can hear a clicking noise but it never does light. and the bulb never does show any signs of light coming from it not even a hair bit... i made sure it was pretty dark to see even a spark... please do not recomend a service tech or some crap i could recomend that to myself i came here for answers from people smarter than me about this... im not looking to pay out alot for a service tech tinker. if u come here to answer questions to help then please do but restrain urself from saying a dumb answe like ask some one else or take it to a tech... thats a bad dumb answer doesnt help anyone.

my wifes dell inspiron 1545 laptop mouse is going crazy haha... if u scroll to the left it goes to the right some times... thats the only direction its having trouble with... my current laptop is exact same model as hers and mine did it last year but i dont remember what i did to fix it???? please dont tell me its the synaptic touch pad itself going bad cause mine did exactly to a teeeeeee the same thing! exact same thing and i havent seen any problem at all in a long time since that one time... i just forget how i fixed it... i have already cleaned the touch pad, i have reinstalled the drivver for it. i have uninstalled recent installations she made. nothing is working... the touch pad works every direction same as it did when new except trying to move left some times it goees to the right instead... does anyone no a fix for this? again i no its not the touch pad... mine did this exactly i mean exactly....