arowai

If I'm using Adobe Illustrator and I zoom in on a raster image, then no matter how far I zoom Illustrator will keep smoothing the image. What I want is to make it so that, when I zoom in, at some point I can see the individual pixels. I need to see the images as they actually are.

Has a few big issues & lots of minor ones. Just want feedback if it's worth fixing up.

-Clutch & Flywheel replacement

-Sign of coolant leak

-FR turn light out

-Oil leak. Engine smells of burnt oil until level drops a little. Sometimes underside of cap has sludge & white foam. Underside of car has layer of wet oil

-Probably time for complete fluid & gasket change, fuel system clean, etc

-IDK previous owner maintenance habits, may be time plugs & cables, cap & rotors, belts, hoses, filters, etc

-Driver heated seat heats only small area to uncomfortable temperature regardless of setting

-Driver power window rolls down, but must be forced up by hand. Attempting to roll up normally will cause it to roll only halfway up on 1st try & actually roll down on 2nd

-Ft passenger window will roll down if controlled from either side but will only roll up if controlled by driver

-Horn & radio control in steering wheel non-functional

-Have only valet key, no remote

-Ft passenger power seat controls detached from seat & connected by cable only

-Dent in trunk under logo, 2in fully-punctured gash in plastic upper rear bumper. Dent w/ chipped paint between Bk Rt wheel & bumper. Indentation on lower Bk Rt passenger door. Ft lower bumper fastned w/ zip ties

-Cen. armrest lid broken off hinges. Dash pop-out cupholder broken

-Driverside speakers work intermittently.

Above aside, runs good & is watertight, gets better MPG than factory spec, has new tires w/ >10K mi.

When engaging 1st gear there is shuddering that requires careful balance of the gas and clutch beyond what would normally be required. Clutch seems otherwise fine. In general experience, about how many miles may be left on the clutch? Engine has 168K miles, and this may be the original clutch. I've only owned for 6 months; previous owner bought it about 1-1/2yr before that from a used dealer.

Main question is about stages. I can get around an engine enough to follow a repair book, but I am clueless about what the specs actually mean.

I was told that, due to the torque/horsepower/whatever of the 3.0 liter V6 engine, it's likely that the car currently has a Stage 2 Clutch and I should replace it with at least that because it's not good to "downgrade" from current. Further, if it does have a Stage 1, I should consider getting 2.

From reading online I've the general idea of the difference between Stages, but I don't know how that applies to my situation. I see it's related to performance driving but I don't do racing, etc - just commuting. But I'll admit I'm an aggressive driver and regularly take advantage of the engines capabilities (freq. acc. 0-70 in a quarter mile uphill, Reg. surpass 4500 rpm in 3rd gear and below) which is mostly why I got this kind of car. How do the Stages apply to my situation? Do I really need more than a standard clutch even with my driving style? Or is a mechanic just trying to charge me more?

'99 Ford Escort LE, manual, 2.0 liter, single overhead cam (not that it probably matters for this issue). So far I've removed the air filter to prevent further water entering the engine, removed the spark plugs and expelled the bulk of the water, and replaced the spark plugs. I will be changing the oil and filter next. At this point I am pretty certain that nothing inside has been bent or cracked because the car readily starts and purrs just like it used to. The problem is that I have to pump the gas pedal like a maniac to keep it running. When I stop pumping or start to engage the clutch it stalls. Will the oil change and a bit more drying solve this or is there something I am missing?

I worked for a company for less than a year so my total contribution was about $710. My company match brought it up to about $930. When I last checked a few weeks ago Charles Schwab stated my account value was about $1200 - I assume to growth in the value of the plan. Just today I received a check in the mail from Charles Schwab for about $810 and a letter stating that my account was cashed out and closed because my total contribution was below $1000. The paper work said my account was cashed out at about $1010 ($810 check with $200 deducted for Fed income tax - my state has no income tax). There was a letter saying I could choose to keep the cash and pay the resulting fees or start a new 401k or IRA for at least the same amount to avoid the fees, etc. I didn't roll over the account because my new employer (small family company, a.k.a my parents) has no retirement plan.

My questions are:

1) Do I seem to be understanding the situation correctly?

2) How much do lose on top of the $200 tax deduction if I keep the cash? The check is about the same as an average paycheck at my new job so not a lot in the course of the year. I don't really want to start an new plan yet - especially since I just got married and my wife and I are still deciding how to organize our finances.

3) What types of accounts would work to avoid the taxes and fees?

4) Are there better ways to invest the money since I am basically starting over?

5) How long do I have to decide?

6) Where is my missing $200? My last statement said the account was valued at $1200 but they cashed it out at $1010 ($200 went to tax leaving me an $810 check).

A bunch of questions so thanks so much for your time and help.

I have looked and looked but all I can find are KJV/Synodal version. While I personally prefer the KJV, the person I wish to obtain this for has difficulty understanding both the older English of the KJV AND the older Russian of the Synodal bible. If there is a bible out there with say the NLT as the english version and a modern Russian text opposite it, that would be perfect. Thank-you!

I have a permit for CCW in WA State. However, upon reading the details on the card I see the wording "Licence to carry concealed pistol" This seems pretty specific so I was wondering if anyone knows where that leaves large knives, smallish rifles (I know that "short" rifles are prohibited), swords, clubs, or any other weapon that a person may desire to carry concealed.

Okay, I know this is going to sound ridiculous. I bought a package of Winchester .380 Pistol ammunition. The package says that the ammunition is well suited for 1) personal protection (I know there is controversy on this), 2) target practice and 3) hunting of thin-skinned animals like white-tail deer and BOAR.

Is this true or is Winchester looking for a lawsuit when some yahoo tries this?

I have three main factors (in this order):

• Form. My first factor is whether or not I like the way it looks. Most people put this 2nd or 3rd,but I put it first. Face it, the person at the other end of the barrel does not care if they are being hit with .45 or 9mm. Both calibers will hurt. They don't have to look at it every day, I do. I do not like snubbie revolvers. I do not like anything resembling a Colt 1911 (which will probably go against your grain quite a bit). Brand name and public knowledge is an important part of form.

• Function. My previous factor aside, function is still important. The weapon should operate reliably as well as be visually appealing to me.

• Price. I am not rich, but what price can you put on quality? My price is under $1000 (preferably below $600)

This in mind, I have already looked around some and I've narrowed it down to a few that fit this category for me: Glock 19; H&K P7M8; Walther P99 and Walther PPK. I am looking for advice and/or votes on these models or suggestions on pistols that I might not yet have considered. Please stick to the type I am already considering though, as I said already: it's not going to be a revolver or a 1911.

(I know going get nasty comments about the 1911 thing. I just don't like them)