Charles S

I need to replace the transmission in my car. It's an automatic; which I think I might be able to do it---but would I need one of those $5,000. computerized multi meters that a garage would have?

Thanks.

every band under the sun it seemed played and was recorded. This was rare footage, like raw cuts, and they were selling the set on tv a couple of years ago. There were acts like Neil Young, Hendrix I think, Tom Petty, Fleetwood Mac, Simon and Garfunkel, Jim Croce, The Doors, and on and on

I ordered a book through Abe books, and it's coming from a bookshop in Ireland. It's been two weeks, and I know they shipped it quickly.

Basically new battery, cable terminals at the battery are not corroded but were brushed shiny less than a year ago. The battery cable connection to the immediately adjacent wall (could the solenoid be seperate from the starter, right here?) appeared corroded, but have loosened them and filed all the surfaces clean. It's not here. Also tried wacking the thing in case the solenoid was stuck; no luck.

For maybe a year, the truck would do this, but it always was--- with a little patience and repeated trys, it would start. Once the truck was up and running for the day, it seemed to me the problem then was far less likely to occur.

The symptoms appear to be exactly like the issue of solenoid stickiness in Chevy van starters, as I went through that with two vans. But my wacking of this starter, also the little black box earlier described on the truck wall... neither of these seemed to effect a fix, after repeatedly doing the experiment of wacking them over months.

The majority of my life experience is with Chevy vans; I have no clue what commonly goes with these Fords. Might somebody out there have an educated guess with this basic model?

I addressed the starter connections, by trying to loosen the corroded nuts, but might have ruined the top most stud, as it's moving and I don't see why it should be--unless it's threaded and not a fixed stud. Then I thought to remove the starter to more easily access the connections, but one starter bolt broke (fun), YET< the starter is so corroded in place, that... if this is not the problem, I'm going to place the one bolt back in place, and put a self tapper or similar through the plate near the broken bolt and I think she'll hold.

Any guidance would be most appreciated. I want to try and salvage the starter, but want to hear what anyone thinks on how to address these issues.

Thx

Can you tell me how there are nearly 1000 folders named "Windows" and when selected, then click on properties, it shows there is more than 100 gigabites of information and counting? The laptop is an older one, and is rated for approximately 9 gigabites.

Yet my problem is that I want to clean up all the unwanted programs and memory to free up this computer for use (not meaning this computer I[m on) Can I erase some of these "Windows" folders? It seems like that would lighten the load an awful lot.

Thanks

I have taken the wheel off and have the "bearing cover" removed from the wheel. I removed the cotter pin, and found the nut behind it was only finger tight.

The bearing is greased, however---when I replace the nut, do I crank it tight, or only finger tight? How tight specifically?

Thanks

and there was no power to the dash; no usual buzzer sound; headlights had gone; NOTHING. I kept trying to turn the key all the way on then off, on then off (apparently a short within the ignition?), and suddenly EVERYTHING would lite up, and it would start. Then it ran fine, until the next day, the same thing happened again. This time I simultaneously pounded my fist upon the dash and steering column hoping for a loose connection diagnosis---these things I did for a full 5 minutes,---finally the juice came back, but it did not coincide with my pounding anything, but just got lucky turning the key. Once the power was 'on', with the key in the on position, it would start fine.

Maybe this truck is known for ignition problems? or what else could it be?--- I'm not so sure it's the ignition. My repeated wiggling and turning of the key and the ignition assembly did not seem to coincide with it's working again. How do I fix this? Any help at all would be appreciated.

Thanks

How do I do it? Do I have to have a lawyer? Can I do this on my own? Best manner of approach.

Thanks.

Any details whatsoever are welcomed in this area.

How about if the author is deceased>?

How many of you, when you were in school, were taught about NLP (Neuro Linguistic Programming) on your path to licensure?

If you did happen to learn about it, to what extent did you learn..roughly?

Thanks.

... so that there will be no damage from idle winter sitting.

I would like to understand what 'starring' a question signifies; and why someone would star a question.

Actually, I want to understand the whole "star" idea, if there is more than one idea behind it.

Thanks

I'm usually good at fixing my stuff, however this problem has me.... stuck. When I'm stopped at an intersection, I have to 2/3's floor it and hold it until the rpms FINALLY choke their way upwards and even off.....then once it's reved high and steady enough, I can begin to take off (standard, 5 speed transmission) and HOPE the engine will keep firing as the engine takes the load and the rpm's resultantly become lower. If I hold the rpms high enough from the get-go, chances are good (usually) I will make it.

The air filter is fine; the butterfly valves appear to be working fine; they have been given a work out and spray lubed. I would swear the symptoms are IDENTICAL to that of the engine choking for air, but....>? I don't know.... any hints? Any advice? ANYTHING???

Help.