plaggue

I recently popped a hose (to the heater core) off the aluminium intake of my 98 Crown Vic. After further review I realized it wasn't just the hose. It was the piece the hose connects to. It screws into the intake. However, the threads on the intake were worn down and it threw the connector piece out.

Rather than buy a new intake and deal with that headache, the advanced auto parts Guy in my local store suggested using heli-coil and making new threads on the intake and it some sort of adhesive and he said it would hold..

However, my problem is that I have not found heli-coil that would fit what I need. I was told its about an 18 or 19mm thread and the smallest I've found is 14mm.

Another parts store guy told me that I wouldn't find that size heli-coil and suggested buying a new intake or finding someone who could do some machining and re tap my intake to a bigger thread.

My first question is this: do they make heli-coil kits any more finei than 14mm?? I can't find it anywhere.

And my second question if the first one is no.. The man at the 2nd parts store told me f I wanted to get real technical then I could use something like jb weld and let it sit and harden real well and it MIGHT hold. Do you guys think that could work or would it be too weak to hold? Even if I by passed the heater core? Heater doesn't work anyway.

My little town in West Tennessee was severely flooded yesterday. I was working, and my job requires me to drive a lot, so obviously I had to go through several puddles. At one point I had to cross where water was probably 3 or 4 inches high moving across the road.

After that happened I noticed my car sputtering and missing some and an obvious loss of power. By the time I got back home smoke was rolling out from under the hood and the car itself. I didn't think much of it. I thought maybe I had wet the plugs or plug wires and the smoke was steam coming off the exhaust and hot motor. However, today I had to drive it to the store and back (about 5 miles round trip.) On the way back with about a mile to go it lost almost all power and would not get above 20 mph going up a hill. Then I noticed my temp gauge start going up. It acts a little funny sometimes, takes a while to read correctly, so I am not sure how long my car was actually over heating. Possibly the whole 5 miles. When I got back home my coolant reservoir was empty. Which worried me because it's never low. I had a gallon of coolant laying around so I put that in there and it went straight down to the radiator. So I put a gallon of water in with it. When I started the engine, the coolant was spraying out the back of the engine. I turned it back off really quick.

A couple people I asked about it said it's most likely a blown head gasket. But I am worried that I might have cracked the block. Anyone have any ideas?

It's a 98 Ford Crown Vic if that matters at all..

Model 310707.

I have a problem with my 17 HP craftsman.

Battery reads 11.8 volts with key off.

Brand new battery. When brand new battery is put on mower it cranks right up the first couple times. Replaced the battery about 4 times in the past 3 months. However after a few cranks something drags the battery down and won't allow it to start. Brand new battery will show 12.5 volts. However after a few cranks it shows 11.8.

New solenoid. Replaced starter with used part.

Can use jumper cables to start the lawnmower. While mower is running the battery charges slowly. Went from 12.3 volts off to 12.7 in about 30 minutes. Voltage at starter, ignition switch, and solenoid are good. When I had my ground lead on the battery trying to test the stator (alternator), it showed about 14 volts. I have been told that that is very low and could likely be my problem.

Once started mower runs fine, just doesn't seem o have enough juice to turn the engine over after a couple cranks. Any ideas?

Model 310707.

I have a problem with my 17 HP craftsman. Battery reads 12.3 volts with key off. Brand new battery. New solenoid. Replaced starter with used part. When new battery is put on mower cranks right up. However after the mower has been started a few times it drags the battery down and starter makes a whining noise and wont crank. While mower is running the battery charges slowly. Went from 12.3 volts off to 12.7 in about 30 minutes. Voltage at starter, stator, and solenoid are good. Once started mower runs fine, just doesn't seem o have enough juice to turn the engine over after a couple cranks. I'm leaning towards ignition switch? Any ideas?

Model 310707

I have a similar problem with my 17 HP craftsman. Battery reads 12.3 volts with key off. Brand new battery. New solenoid. Replaced starter with used part. When new battery is put on mower cranks right up. However after the mower has been started a few times it drags the battery down and starter makes a whining noise and wont crank. While mower is running the battery charges slowly. Went from 12.3 volts off to 12.7 in about 30 minutes. Voltage at starter, stator, and solenoid are good. Once started mower runs fine, just doesn't seem o have enough juice to turn the engine over after a couple cranks. I'm leaning towards ignition switch? Any ideas?

I'm having problems with my wife's 2000 Chevy Impala. For a few weeks the car has been sputtering or idling weak, and the other day it finally broke down. The engine will turn over but it dies as soon as it cranks up. Acts like the car is out of gas. However, if I give the car gas while I'm trying to crank it and hold the gas down after it turns over, it will spit and sputter, but stay on for a second.

I left the car alone for a few hours and came back and it cranked right up and I drove it about a mile or two with no problems. It's been driven a couple times since then, and today it broke down again. I replaced the fuel filter on the car. It took me about an hour and a half. I cranked the car up and seemed to be running fine, but it may have just been because it sat for an hour and a half. On the way home, it stalled while I was driving down the road and would not crank back up.

So I've eliminated the filter as the problem, unfortunately. I also checked the air filter to see if I had a problem there and it was fine..

Wondering if there are any other possible solutions. I've read that when the fuel pump is going out, letting it sit for a few hours and cooling down will make it start working again for a while. That is one option. Or, I've also read the fuel pump regulator could be the culprit.

Plugs and wires were changed about 4 months ago..

No check engine light or anything. Car just acts like it's out of gas. (It's not lol) But it spits and sputters like it is unless I let it sit for an hour or two, and then it runs fine for a while, which is what lead me to believe it was a problem with fuel getting to the engine.

My father in law has the Car MD device and he plugged it up and it gave us 3 or 4 new possible problems.

The Error Code was P0303.

It said:

"Definition -- Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected"

"This fault code indicates the Misfire Monitor has detected that a misfire in Cylinder 3 was detected. The vehicle’s computer continuously checks for engine misfires and identifies the specific cylinder or cylinders in which the misfire occurred. The Misfire Monitor continuously checks for engine misfires. A misfire occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder does not ignite properly due to the absence or incorrect proportions of spark, air and fuel in the combustion chamber."

Possible Causes:

* Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or PCV system

* Base engine mechanical fault that affects only Cylinder 3

* Fuel component fault on Cylinder 3 (e.g., restricted fuel injector)

* Ignition system problem (coil, plug) that affects only Cylinder 3

However, this doesn't really feel like an electrical problem. That's why I feel like the fuel injector is the most likely answer to this problem out of these listed..

They include:

plugs and wires (which we've ruled out)

the ignition coil?

and the injectors.

The injectors are a decent possibility because I've noticed she hadn't kept her engine very clean before we were married. A lot of leaves and debris had gathered around the fuel rail and injectors. and a lot of it had been burnt up and turned almost to dirt. I took a shop vac to it and got as much as I could, not sure if any of it could have seeped into the injectors.

Maybe i should just try taking the injectors apart and spraying some carb cleaner down there first? Would that fix it?

I am by no means a mechanic. And I've found so many different possibilities to this problem, that I don't even know where to start. Any insight would be helpful.. Thanks guys..

I'm having problems with my wife's 2000 Chevy Impala. For a few weeks the car has been sputtering or idling weak, and the other day it finally broke down. The engine will turn over but it dies as soon as it cranks up. Acts like the car is out of gas. However, if I give the car gas while I'm trying to crank it and hold the gas down after it turns over, it will spit and sputter, but stay on for a second.

I left the car alone for a few hours and came back and it cranked right up and I drove it about a mile or two with no problems. It's been driven a couple times since then, and today it broke down again. I replaced the fuel filter on the car. It took me about an hour and a half. I cranked the car up and seemed to be running fine, but it may have just been because it sat for an hour and a half. On the way home, it stalled while I was driving down the road and would not crank back up.

So I've eliminated the filter as the problem, unfortunately. I also checked the air filter to see if I had a problem there and it was fine.. Plugs and wires were changed about 4 months ago.

Wondering if there are any other possible solutions. I've read that when the fuel pump is going out, letting it sit for a few hours and cooling down will make it start working again for a while. That is one option. Or, I've also read the fuel pump regulator could be the culprit.

No check engine light or anything. Car just acts like it's out of gas. (It's not Lil) But it spits and sputters like it is unless I let it sit for an hour or two, and then it runs fine for a while, which is what lead me to believe it was a problem with fuel getting to the engine.

I'm 90% sure it's either the pump or the regulator. Just wondering if there were any other possibilities..

One answerer told me to bang on the fuel tank to see if it was the fuel pump seizing up. Could that help? And where exactly would I bang on the fuel tank at?

I'm no mechanics, so I don't know a lot about diagnosing these problems. Any help would be great.. Thanks guys.

I'm having problems with my wife's 2000 Chevy Impala. For a few weeks the car has been sputtering or idling weak, and the other day it finally broke down. The engine will turn over but it dies as soon as it cranks up. Acts like the car is out of gas. However, if I give the car gas while I'm trying to crank it and hold the gas down after it turns over, it will spit and sputter, but stay on for a second.

I left the car alone for a few hours and came back and it cranked right up and I drove it about a mile or two with no problems. It's been driven a couple times since then, and today it broke down again. I replaced the fuel filter on the car. It took me about an hour and a half. I cranked the car up and seemed to be running fine, but it may have just been because it sat for an hour and a half. On the way home, it stalled while I was driving down the road and would not crank back up.

So I've eliminated the filter as the problem, unfortunately. I also checked the air filter to see if I had a problem there and it was fine..

Wondering if there are any other possible solutions. I've read that when the fuel pump is going out, letting it sit for a few hours and cooling down will make it start working again for a while. That is one option. Or, I've also read the fuel pump regulator could be the culprit.

I'm no mechanics, so I don't know a lot about diagnosing these problems. Any help would be great.. Thanks guys.

This is for the championship. I got burned last week, cuz I thought for sure Schaub would light up the Rams.. Again, not sure how much Peyton will play.. What does everyone think?

Eli Manning vs. Saints

Matt Schaub vs. Bengals

My opponent's WR's consist of Steve Smith (Giants) and Mario Manningham. Starting Manning would negate any big days that they may have. However, if they get shut down, Manning will burn me. The match up has the potential to be a shoot out though.

I have Andre Johnson on my team. So starting Schaub would give me double points every time they hook up. I don't know about the match up against Cincinnati. The Bengals have looked pretty tough so far this year.

Who should I go with? Manning to spite my opponent? Or Schaub to team up with Andre johnson?

I have to choose one of these two. I have andre johnson at WR so I'm leaning towards schaub. Houston plays Cincy this week.

Manning plays the Saints, however, and that has the potential to be a shoot out..

What makes this situation interesting is that my opponent this week will be starting both Steve Smith (Giants) and Mario Manningham.. So I can negate their big weeks if I start Manning. However, if they don't do anything, then I get burned by Manning..

Which way should I go?

Can you tell me how my team looks?

10-team league. standard scoring.

I picked 8th. There was an early run on RB's, hence the reason I picked Drew Brees in the first. Below is a list of my players in the round that I picked them in

QB - Drew Brees

WR - Marques Colston

WR - Roy Williams

WR - Braylon Edwards

RB - Clinton Portis

RB - Ryan Grant

TE - Heath Miller

K - Ryan Longwell

DEF/ST - Dallas Cowboys

Bench - Santonio Holmes

Bench - Torry Holt

Bench - Joseph Addai

Bench - Reggie Bush

Bench - Jamal Lewis

Bench - Carson Palmer

1. Drew Brees (NO - QB)

2. Clinton Portis (Was - RB)

3. Ryan Grant (GB - RB)

4. Marques Colston (NO - WR)

5. Roy Williams (Dal - WR)

6. Braylon Edwards (Cle - WR)

7. Santonio Holmes (Pit - WR)

8. Joseph Addai (Ind - RB)

9. Reggie Bush (NO - RB)

10. Carson Palmer (Cin - QB)

11. Torry Holt (Jac - WR)

12. Dallas (Dal - DEF)

13. Ryan Longwell (Min - K)

14. Jamal Lewis (Cle - RB)

15. Heath Miller (Pit - TE)

During Game 4 of the Hawks - Celtics game, there was a "mini almost-brawl." While that was going on one player from each side's bench appeared to have one foot one the court. Which, of course, usually means an automatic one-game suspension from the NBA.

The two players in question are Marvin Williams of the Hawks and Kendrick Perkins of the Celtics..

Game 5 will be a huge game in this series as far as major momentum is concerned.. Assuming both players are suspended for Game 5, that begs the question, which player will be the most missed by his team?

Marvin Williams is solid, but Perkins (along with Garnett) really anchors the Boston interior defense. This would really allow Atlanta's slashers to get to the basket with a better chance to finish. Therefore I believe the Perkins suspension will be the more important one. What do you guys think?