Charles C

My friend and I are working on his 96 S-10 2.2 4 cylinder. It is hard to start most of the time, and it randomly dies at idle. We have replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter, and he said he had a shop replace the cam sensor. The check engine light is not on, and hooking up an OBD2 scanner gives no codes. What can be the cause of this, and how do I test to see if it is the problem? I have a good amount of experience working on cars, so don't be afraid to be technical in your answer.

I just bought a truck for $250 with a transmission issue. great deal on a perfect running 350 engine, but I am interested in repairing the truck. I can get a used transmission, and install it myself, but I wanted to see if anyone has any ideas of other problems that might be causing the transmission problem first. I am not a transmission guy by no means.

It shifts into reverse, first and second fine. when it tries to shift into third it lets go as if it shifted into neutral. The previous owner said he tried changing the transmission fluid and it didn't fix the problem. Any suggestions before I switch transmissions?

I have a red T products model DGAA070BDTB which is 5 years old. Every year since it was new it has stopped working repeatedly with the diagnostics indicator flashing 3 times indicating combustion air switch failed to close. 2 times only has it given the 2 flash code for failed to open.I have had several different heating companies come in to repair it only to have problems again.

I have replaced the combustion air switch repeatedly, the combustion air blower has been replaced twice the flu from the furnace up has been replaced once, and I have taken the combustion air system apart, and I have removed and re-installed the furnace looking for blockages, and found none.

I have added 2 extra floor vents to my home because I was told that too much back pressure in the vents can cause this problem though I don't understand how.

I have spent almost $1500 trying to repair a furnace that cost me $1000 originally not including installation I am ready to replace the furnace again, but I am not sure.

I live in a mobile home, it is 12 by 70, the BTU rating of my current furnace I believe to be 70,000 I use natural gas. The dimensions of my area to install a furnace are 23.5 in wide, 28 inches deep and 83 inches high. The actual height of the furnace needs to be 80 or less in order to get it in the door without major renovations. I live in central IL

I am wanting a reliable furnace. I would like to get away from a furnace equipped with a combustion air switch if possible. Maybe if it has that blower it would be equipped with a centrifugal switch instead.

I am willing to listen to ideas for repairing what I have, but I am very very tired of putting money into it just to have the same problem over and over again. I am more interested in hearing suggestions of other models of furnace to use. I really prefer to get away from coleman or red t products completely. This experience with them, and dealing with their warranty BS...I am just fed up with them. Oh I forgot to mention there was a recall on the dang thing. That recall cost me 100 bucks to get the combustion air switch replaced...yeah on a recall 100 bucks!

I am rather experienced in auto repair which you will see from some of my previous answers, but I have hit one that has stumped me.

The popping happens a few different times, just one distinct pop:

When you press the gas from a standing start

When you brake

When you go over a speed bump

When traveling at a stable speed (the pop seems random at this point)

When shifting back and forth between drive and reverse (every tine you switch)

What I have done:

The drivers side inner tie rod end had some play in it, so I replaced it. I have not had it aligned because I want to fix this problem first.

I replaced the lower motor mount on the passenger side

The brakes have been replaced.

I gave the steering and suspension system a good examination and after replacing the tie rod there is no play anywhere that I can see.

I also had someone move the car forward and backwards while watching the wheels, and could find no abnormal movement.

Something I have noticed: Normally when looking at a noise like this, the first thing I look for is a broken sway bar link. There are no sway bar links, and no sway bar. Doesn't look like one was ever there, but I can see the mounting holes in the lower control arms for the links.

Any ideas of something I may have missed?

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Angle X is 50 degrees.

Length A is 34 inches.

Angles Y and Z are equal to each other, but unknown.

Lengths B and C are equal to each other, but unknown.

I found plenty of online calculators that work if you know 3 of the required numbers, I think I even once knew how to calculate this, but haven't used it in so long that I have forgotten.

A teacher sends 7 letters home to a child's parents but only uses 1 piece of paper. How is this possible?

My television is around 10 years old, it still works, and I am fine with it. The original battery hungry remote control sits in a drawer unused, and I use the remote to my cable box to control the volume.

Now I could go out and buy the latest technology in TVs, and get all the frills like energy star compliance and such, but is that really being green?

My TV is already made, though it may use a little more electricity than the new ones, how much power is used to build a new one, package it for shipment, and how much fuel transport it to the store where I buy it? It's a big TV, and if I replace it, it will be with another big one, so it will probably be delivered. How much fuel will that take? In my area most televisions go to a landfill. What's the effects there? If I do find a place to recycle it, what about the fuel used to transport it there? how much energy will be used recycling it? How much of it will be recycled?

I wont be replacing my TV soon, i just want to know would it really environmentally friendly to replace it or other items in my home?

I live in the US where power comes into our home as 220vac and is split at the breaker panel to the separate 220vac and 110vac branches.

My computer like almost all computers has a selector switch to switch it from 110vac input voltage to 220vac input voltage. So does some of my other electronics, and some of them will switch automatically. My house is currently wired to run most items on 110vac, but like a lot of homes a lot of the energy hungry appliances like my clothes dryer, and 1 of my air conditioners uses 220vac. It's easy enough to add a few 220vac outlets to my home, and I would have the electrical inspector come in and inspect the installation before using it. The parts needed with exception to the outlets would be free to me because I have tore down several homes that were no longer fit to live in and I saved the wiring including electric range power wires, 220vac air conditioner wires and 220v electric dryer wiring. I also have all the 110v wiring, so I have a very wide supply of wiring available for use at no cost to me should I go through with my idea. I also have 15, 20, 25, 30, and 40 amp breakers (and several higher that would not apply), and plenty of room in my breaker panel for upgrades.

My idea is to add wiring to my home to support running my appliances that are capable of running on 220vac to run on it using outlets specifically for 220vac use. For an example, my computer. I can buy a cord for 220vac use off of Ebay for a few dollars, and maybe have $10 invested total.

So would it be more efficient to run my appliances capable of doing so on 220vac? Are there any laws that I am not aware of at the national level preventing me from doing this? Can you provide links to websites for more information please?

I attempted searching Google, but the results for the terms I entered were totally unrelated.

When I was a teen-ager 15ish years ago Time Life had a series of books on home repair and improvement they was selling. I remember checking them out of the library 1 at a time, and reading most of them. I learned a lot of neat tricks from them.

One of those books had a plan for a bunk bed and bookshelves that was designed to separate a larger room into 2 separate rooms. I am wanting to use that plan, and I have tried my local library, and Google. The Library doesn't even have any books from that series anymore, and Google just brings up a bunch of unrelated garbage for all the terms I have tried searching.

I am wondering if anyone might have an idea of where I could track this book down, or for that matter even the entire set so I can use the plans out of it for my needs.

Alternately If anyone knows of a decent set of plans for a similar bed design, and could link me to it that would be appreciated too.

Thanks in advance to all who reply!