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2011 5.0 50k miles...royal purple synchromesh, Barton short throw shifter, McLeod stainless steel braided clutch line, also removed the "helper" spring on the clutch pedal assembly.

With that being said yes shifting is noticeably better but I'm still having issues with the clutch fully disengaging around 6500-7000 rpms. I just feel like the clutch pedal doesn't have enough stroke to disengage the clutch completely. Especially from 1-2 after that gets a little better but I guess the way to describe it is "lockout". I have to wait for the rpms to drop down below 6000-5500 rpms to get it into gear sometimes. Also i have to press the pedal to the floor to disengage and car starts to move forward lifting pedal up only about 1inch up off the floor. I'm stumped anybody have any ideas?

Met this girl I really like and been talkin for a few months. Were gettin a little more to the point where its a serious relationship and everything is almost perfect between us except for one thing. She believes in god and wants strongly to have a partner that also does. Im not saying I don't believe but i've never truly believed in god. The complicated part is I went to church every Sunday until I was 18 (now 21) and I loved the family oreinted environment it gives and the lifes lessons it teaches but I never truly believed. I stopped going but I still am the same person I was who believes in being honest, doing good for others, and living life to the fullest. I understand how she feels and I've let her know that I would support what she believes in and go to church with her if we really wanted to start a life together. Even if we had kids somewhere down the line I would gladly raise them in the church but she doesn't want me to go for her or anybody else, she wants me to go for me. If I cant truly believe in god is there any other way to make us work? I could and would love her to the end of the earth but I just dont want this to be a deal breaker

where can i find the tubular bumper that came on the first gen lightnings. i've been looking everywhere online at least for one and cant seem to find it anywhere. i'm looking to get a pro runner light bar or just fork up the money for a bumper from hefty fab works but i want a rear bumper to match so i'm basically just looking for that style. if anyone knows where i can find something like this any help would be much appreciated thanks.

gettin a 306 from a friend that only has a couple thousand miles on it from ford racing. part # m-6007-x302. since its already bored .030 over what parts besides the crank and connecting rods would i need to take it up to a 331? would i need new pistons also? basically just tryin to hit a solid 400hp and any references to shops around houston tx or even online would be appreciated thanks.

gettin 306 crate motor from ford M-6007-X302. has gt40 al. heads, e303 cam, and usin an edelbrock air gap intake. i'm also goin with a fast ez efi system (dont know if this would make a diff) but my ques is with this setup if i'm right i'll be somewhere in the 350hp range? still learnin a bit about all the internals of an engine but could a different cam put me closer to 400hp? any recommendations would be appreciated or anything else i could do to get just a little more out of it. i'm swappin out the old faithful inline 6 in a 94 f150 with 8in lift and 35's. oh and one more thing if anybody is runnin this engine, just for kicks what kinda gas mileage am i lookin at? lol not really concerned as i'll be drivin mainly just around town

got a 94 f150 with an inline 6/auto tranny wanting to swap to a 351w efi but have a few questions. are the motor mounts the same for both engines? what other major components would/do i need besides the computer and accessories from the fender wells? and if i'm correct the 351 will bolt straight up to the e4od right? just wanting some raw horsepower so any suggestions would be appreciated

ok, asked this ques a couple days ago...so far replaced now: radiator cap, waterpump, thermostat, thermo temp sender, upper and lower radiator hoses. radiator is maybe 4 or 5 months old so it shouldnt be a problem. when i took off the t-stat and water pump i used the garden hose to put water into the t-stat port and water was flowing down smoothly out from the water pump port, so the water jacket is fine. i checked the top of the radiator and i can see water rushing across also when i push the throttle the water level drops indicating the water pump is doing its job. i pulled out the t-stat thinking i may have got a bad one, i ran it without it and still does the same thing. shouldnt it run cooler without it? i have dual electric fans pushing 4000cfm which is more than enough air to keep the engine cool. basically my cooling system has no flaws, not unlesss theres something else i'm missing? i checked the dipstick on both the engine and trans and no sign of water mixing in with the oil. the engine does not sputter, miss, or idle rough at all. also checked to make sure water isn't leaking from anywhere else and used a IR temp gun to make sure it was actually heating up and not just my dash guage, why is this not adding up right??

got a 94 f150 with a 4.9l. ok so the thermostat got stuck open and i replaced it with another oe thermostat rated at 190deg. also replaced a lower radiator hose that was collapsing. i still had the same problem, so i took out the thermo rated at 190 and put one in rated at 160. now it overheats just a little faster. why? idk... i checked at the top of the radiator to see if the water was flowing across and when i press the gas the water level drops proving that the squealingmp is working correctly, am i right? i've heard no squealing or grinding from the pump either. is it possible it went out without me knowing? the radiator is fairly new so i know its not clogged up somewhere. also i converted to electric fans pushing 4000cfm together which was, before all this started to happen, keeping my engine cool even in this 100deg texas weather....is there something i'm missing??

got a 94 f150 with a 8.8 rearend. i read on forums and see people talkin about a gear swap, at a pro shop, being around 600 bucks, true? i already have the new ring and pinion and an aussie locker so im wonderin in what price range am i lookin at for a shop just to install it. i live in houston, tx if that makes a diff.

so my dad gave me this knife a long time ago and i rediscovered it. it was made by Robert Klaas and has the emblem of the kissing cranes. i've narrowed it down to a dress bayonet but i have a couple of questions. every other model i've seen has the shape of an eagle and an eagle eye on the butt of the knife but mine doesn't, why? also if anyone could tell me a specific year(s) of when it was made that would be awesome thanks. got some pics so you guys can get a good look.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/southerntexan19/52655...

94 f150. 4.9l e4od trans.

so i went muddin over the weekend and on my way home i had no 3rd or od gear. had no previous slips or lockups at all. buddy of mine thought it might be shift solenoid. replace it and nothing. took it to trans shop and got some codes 172, 334, 411, 538, 617-19, 624, 637. yes i know its a bunch of codes and yes i know what they are but trans guy says it doesnt indicated exactly what the prob is, only that its electrical and that its in fail safe mode. he suggested the manual lever position sensor or (neutral saftey switch). replaced it and still nothing. i could go get a diagnostic for 70 bucks but i'd rather save my money and figure it out on my own. i'm stumped any ideas???

so i went muddin today, went through some stuff deep enough to submerge my frame. now my truck slowly gets up even with my foot all the way down and it just doesnt wanna shift out of 3rd into 4th. also 2nd to 3rd gear is kinda sticky...any ideas?? (94 f150 4.9l)

so i had an idea about mounting a cold air intake inside the cab of my 94 f150. i could drill a hole through the firewall, have the filter right on the other side, and seal it up. not positive where i could hide it just yet but theoretically since the engine can draw colder/cleaner air to the engine wouldn't it run even stronger? how much of a difference in performance would it make to mount under the hood than in the cab?