dylancv62

I just bought an 08' Nissan Titan Pro 4x with 4wd. I seemed to miss the passenger rear tire hunting back and forth while going down the road when I bought it. All tires were balanced and checked for bent wheels which were all fine. If you put a different tire and wheel on that side, it still does it. I'm worried about it being a bent axle. All of the tires have been cupping on the inside and have about 5k miles on them. A buddy thinks they were rotated and the alignment caused this...which I agree and would put the front tires on the rear after rotation still showing the cupping. The truck has a Pro Comp 3" block lift on the rear and a 4" spacer on front with 275/70/18 BFGoodrich AT tires. Also had brake shoes replaced on rear because this same side was making noise and found that the brake shoe lip was broke and just sitting in the caliper. Noise is gone now but tire still rides like it's going in and out on the road.....slightly. What's some thoughts on this? I tried to give all info. that I could think of. Nothing was said about the rotors or bearings. The tire/wheel DOES NOT wiggle when lifted, it's firm and no play.

I'm putting in a Generac 20kw home generator which runs off either LP or NG. I don't have natural gas lines at my house. It's all electric. I also don't have a propane tank. With this being said, which would you install and why? If I go the propane tank method, I can be assured if there is a natural gas line interruption, it won't affect me. Propane costs more and I have to have a hughe tank in my yard...but again..there would be no service interruption due to gas leaks or whatever like there could be with NG. Just wondering what some thoughts are.

The side of my house caught fire and went up into the attic. The contractors are replacing the rafters but are leaving the damaged ones in and just placing new boards next to it. Does the damaged wood need sealed before you joint up another board to it? I like to think so because there will be one whole side of damaged wood that you can't get to with a new board butted up right next to it. Most of the rafters are just blackened with little charring so they still have structural integrity. I'm more concerned about sealing the wood. Do you seal it all first, THEN start bracing it back up with new wood?

I had a split unit put in yesterday. It's all electric. I have been timing the cycle of this for a little over and hour and it cycles on for 10 minutes, then off for 5. This is nowhere near how my old unit performed. When it kicks on, the inside air handler makes a clicking sound like switches being flipped....then starts up. This thing is running constantly! The air has alot of force out of the vents. So much that it's actually kind of loud compared to the old unit. It's supposed to be a variable fan speed handler but it seems as though it's all on high for now. Is all of this normal?

I have about a 1900 sq. ft. house that is in desperate need of a new heatpump. I finally got a guy to come out and check it out. The old unit both inside and out are done. There is no point in repairing a 30 year old system that keeps breaking. My house is total electric so I'm getting an all electric heat pump. Here is what is offered: A 3.5 ton, 15 Seer American Standard heatpump with a matching variable speed air handler for the inside. I have a concrete slab house so the duct work is all ok after checking. Other than normal installation, they will have to run new refrigerant line from the compressor outside to the handler inside because my old system used R22 and i'm getting 410 with the new system. The guy estimates that it will cost about $7,500 for all of it...including a new programmable thermostat. I'm having a hard time swallowing it because I can buy all of the equipment online for about $2,500-3000. I just don't have the knowledge to put it in, nor would there be a warranty if I did it. The warranty after install is for 10 years, and this unit qualifies for the tax deduction rebate by the gov. I live in a small town in Oklahoma and this guy is a certified dealer for American Standard. What do you think? A little pricey??

I have a 30 year old GE air handler inside that has reached its' limits. Outside I have a 5 year old Trane XR12 3.5 ton 12 SEER.."I believe." House is 2,000 sq ft. and total electric. I need to replace the handler but wonder if I should just match them both up and get a better SEER match and get the tax credit back for a 15 SEER or higher unit. I'm basically asking if I should just get another handler or go ahead and replace them both? The unit uses R22 so that is being phased out. Duct work is good. I just need a basic install. If you could give me a ballpark amount of $$ for both options, that would be great. Whatcha think? Oh yeah....is there anything that "beats" a Trane?

I had my roof replaced about a month ago. The ACV of the roof was around $8900. About $1500 was witheld due to depreciation. I have a friend that has his own company and did the total job for around $8500. I was written a check for the $8900 and was told that there was $1500 available in depreciated value once the roof was complete. I believe my friend "cut" me a good deal and I was going to use the other $1500 from depreciation in guttering that the insurance company keeps giving me the run-around on. I have total replacement insurance....it's called the Regal Policy with Oklahoma Farm Bureau. It's the most expensive they have. My agent says that the depreciated value is mine to use because I'm paying for it. The adjuster says..."no, the job didn't cost as much as you were "allowed"..so you don't get it just because you were allowed it." I pay full price weather things are depreciated or not. They don't lower my rate when items depreciate. They still get full price. So..for all of you adjusters out there...who is right? Adjuster or Agent? The company basically valued my roof at $10,400 without depreciation. I got it fixed for $8500. They paid $8900 and kept back the $1500 for depreciation.

Thanks in Advance,

Just a quick question to see how the new RSIA policy is working out for everyone. On BNSF it pretty much has raped us. We used to have rest cycles and now they're gone. The carrier feels that the implementation of the new policy is good enough for our days off now. They are now holding trains out so that they can call us after 0001 to start our "starts" over again and reset the start count. They are also deadheading us ....to start the starts over again. On my particular subdivision they have locked the computers to deny all layoffs on the weekend. You are declined for even laying off sick. If you call the trainmaster, he says he can't approve it. I'm wondering how "legal" that is. BNSF has went down the tubes and many people are quitting...not just the furloughed employees. How are things in your neck of the woods?

How long does it take to get from Surrey to Wales by train? Just kidding. BNSF got spanked by the FRA and now has a mandatory time off period. After working 6 consecutive starts that are timed from midnight to 2359, you HAVE to have 48 hours of consecutive rest. If you ever have 24 hours between midnight and midnight without a start....the 6 days starts all over back to 0 and you have no days off. BNSF took all of the rest cycles away so now you can't plan to have a day off. They found the loop hole of calling you at 2359 for your 5th start....say you work until 9 am....get 10 hours mandatory rest...and are ready for work again at 7 pm the next day. Well they won't call you until 0001 so that you don't get the 48 hours off. Your days start all over because you didn't have a start in that 24 hour period. Sounds like less time off then we had before with rest cycles. This is just a rant basically, but I'd like to know your thoughts about it and if it's being implemented to other carriers as well as BNSF.

My trojan 8 volts recently started losing their charge. I have a charger that they are hooked up to everyday. Since letting some friends borrow it, they hadn't checked the water level in the batteries and I ended up adding about 4 gallons to all 6 batteries. Now the battery level light on the cart shows fully charged but drops to half battery life after about 30 minutes. I can play a full 18 holes and then some but fear the batteries may be damaged. I have read about adding epsom salt to "revamp" the batteries and my question is: Has anyone used this method or any other tricks like this...and if so.....how well did it work?

My trojan 8 volts recently started losing their charge. I have a charger that they are hooked up to everyday. Since letting some friends borrow it, they hadn't checked the water level in the batteries and I ended up adding about 4 gallons to all 6 batteries. Now the battery level light on the cart shows fully charged but drops to half battery life after about 30 minutes. I can play a full 18 holes and then some but fear the batteries may be damaged. I have read about adding epsom salt to "revamp" the batteries and my question is: Has anyone used this method or any other tricks like this...and if so.....how well did it work?

This friday a Union Pacific crew hit a Propane Truck in Oklahoma. All crew members died as a result of the explosion. The train was traveling 37 mph and dumped the air at about 140 ft before impact. What would you have done? Do you feel there is anywhere in the cab that you could go to in order to live through the event....such as the bathroom? Lastly, do you think considering the dangerous nature of our job, that the railroads should put in some type of protective room in the cab that we could go to in order to live? Such as an airtight metal bathroom instead of the flimsy plastic we have? What is your take? I'm just kind of tired of hearing about fellow crews dying when there IS a way to protect us.

The ceiling has 2 black, 2 red, and 2 white wires. The ceiling fan has 1 black, 1 blue, 1 white, and 1 green wire. The red wires in the ceiling weren't being used. The previous lighting fixture was 4 lights with no ceiling fan. I can control the fixture from 2 separate outlets. I wired the black and blue from the ceiling fan to the black 2 wires in the ceiling......"4 wires together. I wired the white from the ceiling fan to the 2 in the ceiling.....3 together. Nothing on the red. The breaker trips when i turn the switch on. I'm not eletrically inclined and it's obvious it's not wired correctly. Any help would be appreciated.

I've recently decided to change the spark plugs on this beast. It's the wifes' old car and i'm using it to drive to work. It's a 6 cylinder and looks kind of cramped to get to the 6 plugs. Is there any easy way of doing this, or little secrets I need to know before jumping in? Looks like 3 up front....and hopefully 3 in the rear, but I can't really see them....it's tight. Thanks.

I'll start out and say about 6 months ago I took Matt Rose and his "buddies" on a 306 mile trip to Amarillo. Took about 4 and a half hours. For those that don't know.....Matt Rose is the CEO/President for BNSF........the top dog. They parted the seas for this run. We had a wind advisory.....which we high-balled by direction of the Texas Division Manager, and we had a permanent 10mph bridge which we went 49mph over by direction of the manager as well. Funny that they want US to abide by the rules, but will direct us to break them to "get there faster."

I've been given the task at finding out an answer to something. Maybe you all can help.

This couple has been married about a year and a half. The male pays for every single bill. The wife get's paid every week. Her financial obligation is to transfer every other check into savings for the couple. She keeps $1k a month to do with as she will. Her gas to and from work is her only bill. She works M-F 7:30-6PM and sat 8-12. 64 hours. She gets home at 7pm, goes to sleep at 9:30 pm. The husband works a job that is "on call" but gets paid handsomely. He does not work every day but sometimes will work a week straight without a day off. When he is off, he does laundry, dishes, mows, vaccums, etcl. When she is off, she relaxes. She says she doesn't feel like cleaning and is tired from working all day. He sees the time she DOES have, and isn't helping around the house, or even picking up after herself. Should she contribute more to help her husband out around the house?

I bought my house on Sept 28,2006. I am in the process of refinancing it already after 1 year and 5 months. Here's the question. On my prepayment penalty clause I have an "addendum" that is dated Sept 28, 2009. It says that AFTER 24 months of "said" date I could prepay without penalty. Can they "predate" these clauses? Is this supposed to be a 5 year "hold-down?." If i prepay within first year AFTER said date it is 2% of principal remaining, prepay within 2nd year it is 1%, and within 3rd year ...no penalty. The year 2009 is baffling me. What if I pay it now? I'm not technically within the first year of 2009 until October 1st of this year. It doesn't stipulate paying before, it says AFTER said date. Is this a typo? There are no fees associated with paying before the said date. They can't "forbid" me and refuse to let me refinance until after "said" date can they?.......Any help is appreciated.

I bought my house on Sept 28,2006. I am in the process of refinancing it already after 1 year and 5 months. Here's the question. On my prepayment penalty clause I have an "addendum" that is dated Sept 28, 2009. It says that AFTER 24 months of "said" date I could prepay without penalty. Can they "predate" these clauses? Is this supposed to be a 5 year "hold-down?." If i prepay within first year AFTER said date it is 2% of principal remaining, prepay within 2nd year it is 1%, and within 3rd year ...no penalty. The year 2009 is baffling me. What if I pay it now? I'm not technically within the first year of 2009 until October 1st of this year. It doesn't stipulate paying before, it says AFTER said date. Is this a typo? There are no fees associated with paying before the said date. They can't "forbid" me and refuse to let me refinance until after "said" date can they?.......Any help is appreciated.

I have declared bankruptcy 3 years ago. I bought a house after the fact with a variable interest rate. I am now wanting to refinance. I have an offer for a 5.25% fixed 15 year refinance. The payments of this new loan is about $50 less a month than what i'm paying on a 30 year note. I know refinancing with this rate and term is a no brainer. My question is, in order for me to get this loan, the lender wants 2 points paid upfront with my closing fees. Total closing fees is going to be about $4,500 with the points, and escrowed fees of property taxes and insurance. It's about $1600 for points alone. Is this still a good deal considering my bankruptcy and paying the same as a 30 year note but now on a 15 year fixed? I also have to pay about $1500 penalty payment to my current lender for refinancing before my 3 year mark. What are your thoughts? In all it will cost about $6000 to get this loan....but it is fixed, payment is $50 less a month, and it's only 15 years instead of 30?

I have a whirlpool electric hot water heater. It has an energy smart electronic module on the top of the tank that has lights that light up when there is a fault. Whenever we use the dishwasher, take a shower, or use hot water for long periods of time, the water heater will display on the module "check lower heating element" and will flash this fault the whole time until you press the reset fault button. If you don't press the reset button the hot water will not restore and you're just left with cold water once all the hot is gone. If you do press the reset button, the tank resets and works fine until you use a large supply of hot water again. It's tiring always pressing the button everytime you use hot water, but it does work fine if you do. Any suggestions on what could be the problem? If it's the element, I would think it wouldn't work at all. The electronic module appears to be fine with no burned electronic parts in it. And there is sediment if drained, but little drains