mgrenia

My wife has XM in her car, and I have Sirius in my car. Many of the channels are the same, but it seams that Sirius doesn't offer many of the channels that are standard on XM.

I thought the companies had merged, after all when you listen you hear "You're listening to SiriusXM Satellite Radio..."

The install kit is configured radio on top, pocket on the bottom. The pocket is not removable.

The radio seems as if it's too long (deep) to fit into the cavity in the dashboard of the car properly.

Has anyone had this issue?

How did you fix it?

I have a few years of tax returns that I didn't file back in the early '90's. I no longer have the documents to file the returns. I'm in my early 50's now and wondering if Uncle Sam will take money owing from my Social Security when I retire.

I drive a company-owned 2011 Freightliner Cascadia with a sleeper. I just bought a new Sirius radio but I don't know where to mount the magnetic antenna since just about the entire outer surface of the truck is fiberglass. I am the dedicated driver to this truck, but I don't own it, so I can't do any drilling, ect to complete this installation.

If you have done this without altering the truck in any way please let me know.

Sirius is of no help, all of their tutorials on the Web deal only with installing in a passenger car.

I need to know as a new Ontario A-Z licence holder if a minor property damage accident in which a parked vehicle was hit on private property affects my personal CVOR in Ontario.

Last week I was in this minor accident in my work truck. Because I was in my first 90 days, I was fired for the accident. I really hope this won't keep me from finding another job!

I have a new "Smart Meter" that was installed by the power company about 18 months ago. It seems to me that this meter being an electronic device, versus an analog device should be extremely accurate. What I don't understand is why every month on my electricity bill there is a multiplier of 1.085 "adjustment" of the ending reading that generally increases my usage by about 100 kW/h. It's not a lot of money, but one can't help but wonder if this is a cash grab that adds up to millions of dollars when spread out amongst thousands of customers.

What do you think?

I have a red wine-colored fiberglass bathtub that I had to remove, then re-install. The problem is that the tub has a thick bead of clear silicone caulking that I need to remove from the tub before I can re-install it. Is there an easy way to do this without damaging the fiberglass?

On my '01 Saturn SC2 When I first start the engine (or just turn the ket to ON) both the speedo and the tach needles sit below zero and quiver along with a rapid clicking noise for about 5 seconds. While this is going on the gas gauge is on E. After the clicking and quivering stops, the gas gauge goes to it's correct level and all seems fine. When I turn the key to OFF the gas gauge immediately drops to E and again, both the speedo and the tach quiver and rapidly click for about 5 seconds.

The other thing I've noticed is that after the engine is warmed up the tach indicates less than 100 (no lie!) RPM at idle...I don't see how that's possible without a stall

Any Ideas?

If you do, you have probably received a "Notice of Change" from them in the mail recently.

A few years ago when Canadian Tire Financial Services introduced this card it was a great deal. All you had to do was spend $1,000 in a billing cycle, then you could enjoy a savings of 10 cents per litre (deducted from the pump price instantly) at Canadian Tire Gas Bars during the next cycle.

Well, I guess a good deal just couldn't last. Effective on July 1, 2008, in order to get the top discount of 10 cents per litre you will have to spend $2,000 per month!

Canadian Tire is offering a "consolation prize" of 8 cents per litre if you charge more than $1,000 but less than $2,000 during a billing cycle.

Many of you might not think that 2 cents per litre is a real big deal but consider this: I use about 70 litres per week. My discount is going to be reduced to $5.60 from the current $7 per fill-up. That's $1.40 a week, $72.80 per year.

Call them and complain. 1-800-459-6415.

I'm just wondering. I have always preferred the "CBS Evening News" long before Katie Couric came on board. Now that she's here I think she's doing a great job.

The critics say she's "too nice," and she doesn't have enough "hard news." I don't buy that. Most of us have a pretty good idea of what's going on in Washington, Iraq and Afghanistan. For me, especially during the dinner hour, with my kids in the room, a little good news with a happy ending is a refreshing change.

What do you think and why?

Just wondering. I live in southern Ontario and you can grow peaches here. Just need to know if it's possible to start a tree from a seed and how to go about doing it.

I have a 1990 Dodge B250 full-sized van that runs warmer than it should. I have determined that the stock clutch fan is junk as it doesn't seem to speed up when I rev the engine.

I have a non-running '92 Plymouth Acclaim that has a working e-fan in it. I would like to use this fan in my van if possible.

I'm gusssing that I will need an additional coolant temp sensor, but I'm not sure what else. Suggestions and installation advice would be apreiciated.

Just wondering...I have a 1990 Dodge B250 full size van that I bought because it was in good shape. The van is basicly just a crusier and will rarely if ever be loaded down. I do a lot of long-distance highway driving and I need to know if it's possible (without extensive mods) to fit a 5sp manual tranny to it.

I've asked several ?'s about my 1990 Dodge B250 van and the 41 and 46 fault codes I have.

Everyone seems to think that I have charging issues that are causing the computer to increase the idle RPM's. I thought I fixed this problem when I replaced the coolant sensor, now the start-up idle is fine but the going-down-the-road idle keeps increasing as I drive. It's causing a greater brake effort to stop and when I get to where I'm going and put the transmission in Park the engine just screams.

The answers I have so far are suggesting a regulator problem. Others are telling me that the regulator is inside the computer box (which is mounted to the firewall, under the hood)

Before I spend more money is there a test I can use to confirm this?

NOTE- The battery voltage when the engine is running is between 14.70 and 15.00 volts. That sounded OK to me...Is this not right?

I've been screwing around with this van for 2 weeks.

According to what I've read about Mopar fault codes, 41 and 46 both pertain to the charging system, one indicates that the field circuit is open or shorted, the other that the charging voltage is too high...I've measured 14.8 to 15.0 volts at the battery with the engine running. That seems OK to me.

If I'm wrong, please offer advice on how to correct the problem and clear these codes.

I recently replaced a coolant temp sensor to clear a 22 code and bring the idle back to normal range. Now the van seems to run OK at idle but while driving the idle speed is increasing to the point where it takes double the effort to stop. Also when you come to a complete stop and shift to Park, the engine races.

As a result of all this, (see my other post) the engine is running hot and getting really bad gas mileage.

I'm completely lost!

My van has a 318 with TBI and no A/C. After sitting in the driveway for 18 months (gas prices!) I decided to fire it up again and just take it for short drives to keep it "limber."

I took the 192* thermostat out and replaced it with a 180*. The van still runs very hot. I took the thermostat back out and ran without one, the engine STILL runs hot.

I can see the water circulating in the rad so the water pump must be good. All I can think of is that the rad itself must be plugged. Will a good dose of Prestone SuperFlush and new coolant fix this or am I going to be replacing the rad?

My 1990 Dodge B250 van starts fine then quickly revs itself up to 2500 to 3000 RPM. (In the winter months this doesn't happen, the engine just floods itself, stalls, and will not start again for 30 to 45 mins.)

I asked a mechanic who suggested the coolant temp sensor is faulty and it's telling the computer the engine is stone cold, even at normal operating temperature. As a result the computer is calling for massive amounts of fuel which it is dumping down the throttle body.

I checked the fault codes and got the following:

12- Power Fail (no big deal)

22- Coolant sensor out of range

33- Standard code for vehicle w/o air conditioning (so I'm told)

41- Alternator field control circuit open or shorted (I don't understand this one)

46- Battery voltage too high during charging, or system voltage too low ( Once again, I don't understand this one either. I have not observed any electrical issues at all)

A friend says a bad MAP sensor will cause this?? HELP!!

I have heard that a US Appeals Court has overturned the US ban on products containing Ephedra. Does anybody know if that changes the ban on it here in Canada? Can it be purchased on a US Web site, then shipped here without being confiscated by Canadian Customs?

I wash daily. Is this just something that goes along with getting older?