Jose

The reason I ask is because Honda keeps building Type-R Civics in Japan, and was wondering if the Acura Integra Type-R was the only one available in the U.S. legally. After all, the RSX Type-S 2002-06 is not the same car as a Honda Integra Type-R Japan had. The engine has a few more ponies than the U.S. bound car.

Most importantly, will a JDM Type-R engine fit into a U.S. car?

I keep reading about negligible, minor performance gains on an Intel-based system. But what if the motherboard in question is AM2 based? I have an ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe running on DDR2 667MHz memory sticks, and I am wondering if I will have any NOTICEABLE performance gains by changing my memory sticks to 800MHz. System in question.

ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe Motherboard w/ AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000 (3GHz)

Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit

Thanks!

Our central AC is set to 76 degrees, and IT IS COOLING just fine. But I started to notice that the main AC vent, where the air filter goes, gets incredibly cold to the touch...much colder than normal. I am suspecting maybe a freon leak? Any other ideas of what could be wrong?

Thanks.

I've run into a problem that I am not sure how to solve. I get screen tearing on my LCD monitor in EVERYTHING I use it for. Be it watching streaming videos on Netflix or Hulu, playing various PC games, watching Blu-Ray movies....even looking at pictures. Also as you move an open window around, it leaves a trail behind for a split second.

I know I have screen tearing, because I know what it is. But I don't know where the problem is.

Here's the hardware listing.

ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe motherboard with 4GB RAM

AMD Athlon X2 64 Dual-Core 3GHz

Windows XP Pro SP3 32-bit

ATI Radeon HD 4850 video card with 1GB of video memory

Westinghouse LCD monitor L2046NV connected via DVI.

All drivers, including BIOS, have been updated to their latest versions.

I know the problem is NOT the graphics card because I switched from an NVIDIA 9500GT to ATI HD 4850, and the problem remains.

So that leaves me with 2 possibilities. One, I need to upgrade the motherboard with something better. Or two, as one of my friends suggested, upgrading to a newer version of Windows might solve the problem. On a related note, I have a new Toshiba laptop with Windows 7, and all videos play flawlessly in there, as well as games. No screen tearing on my laptop of any kind. I could replace both the board and the O/S, but I am on a tight budget, and would like to know what should I look at first.

Gracias!

I've run into a problem that I am not sure how to solve. I get screen tearing on my LCD monitor in EVERYTHING I use it for. Be it watching streaming videos on Netflix or Hulu, playing various PC games, watching Blu-Ray movies....even looking at pictures. Also as you move an open window around, it leaves a trail behind for a split second.

I know I have screen tearing, because I know what it is. But I don't know where the problem is.

Here's the hardware listing.

ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe motherboard with 4GB RAM

AMD Athlon X2 64 Dual-Core 3GHz

Windows XP Pro SP3 32-bit

ATI Radeon HD 4850 video card with 1GB of video memory

Westinghouse LCD monitor L2046NV connected via DVI.

All drivers, including BIOS, have been updated to their latest versions.

I know the problem is NOT the graphics card because I switched from an NVIDIA 9500GT to ATI HD 4850, and the problem remains.

So that leaves me with 2 possibilities. One, I need to upgrade the motherboard with something better. Or two, as one of my friends suggested, upgrading to a newer version of Windows might solve the problem. On a related note, I have a new Toshiba laptop with Windows 7, and all videos play flawlessly in there, as well as games. No screen tearing on my laptop of any kind. I could replace both the board and the O/S, but I am on a tight budget, and would like to know what should I look at first.

Gracias!

I heard it on the radio today on a special Hair Metal Marathon, but the DJ never said who it was...It was a mid-paced ballad (think Fly High Michelle), but the chorus went 'In Heaven....where something with 'angels'..and then the band went 'In heaven ooooh whoa' or something similar....any hair band aficionados can identify it for me? I know it's NOT 'In Heaven Everything Is Fine' or 'Angels of Heaven from Fair Warning.

Thanks!

I am looking into getting a Corvette C4 (1990-96) ZR-1, but I ran into 2 regular Corvettes with a 'ZR-1' emblem stuck on them. One even had the nerve to tell me he didn't even know what a ZR-1 was!! (needless to say, he's still waiting on my callback...lol). Last thing I need is to get a ZR-1 'wannabe' instead of the real product.

What other cues can I look into to make sure I am not getting ripped off by someone passing a regular 'Vette' for a ZR-1? How can you tell I am getting the real thing? Thanks!

The reason I am asking is because I am considering either a 2010 GTI or GLI as a new car, but I've heard polarizing opinions about VW in general. They are either 'junk', or as good as any other car, as far as reliability is concerned.

I know Consumer Reports are not particularly fond of the brand, but here's the kicker: my brother in law had a Jetta he hated for being problematic, yet one of my best friends had another Jetta that was as reliable as a Corolla. Both were 2004 models. From what I heard, since the 2006-on models are being built in Wolfsburg, that there is better quality among models (except the Touareg, which apparently is the worst VW ever...lol).

So I'd like to know what your experiences are as an owner. What year/model VW you have and how's it working for you so far. Thanks!

My 2007 Subaru WRX had the Check Engine Light come up, and I took it to Auto Zone for a computer code scan, and here is the result:

P0456- Evaporative emission control system malfunction

What exactly is that? I know it's NOT a fuel/loose fuel cap (that'd be P0457), so what am I looking at and/or replacing here?

Thanks.

I know I saw it sometime ago, but i can't remember which anime movie it was. This lady had another one tied up in a basement and slowly was being turned to gold, until someone saved her. Which movie was this?

Thanks.

2004 Ninja 250R; dual carbs; completely stock. Only 13,000 miles.

OK, so let me first tell you my problem and then I'll tell you everything I've done with no changes at all. It's one of those [I]'it was running great yesterday, and today it runs like crap'.[/I]

So on to my problem. The bike will not start at all until I apply the choke in full blast. (during cold start, and if the bike is warm). As soon as I take the choke off the bike just stalls.

That's part 1 of 2. The other thing is that when I blip the throttle, instead revving up, it actually revs DOWN and...yep...it stalls again. It's dangerous in traffic and it's stalled on me all the time unless I am running on full choke.

HERE'S ALL I'VE DONE TO IT SO FAR. And I see no change.

1) Replaced the battery and spark plugs. Thought I'd start with something simple before I undertook a major thing. Which in the end, I had to anyway, to no avail.

2) Valves were adjusted within specs and were double and triple-checked.

3) Took apart the carbs, disassembled, and thoroughly cleaned all parts. Jets were fine, mixture screw was fine...floats worked within specs, diaphragm was fine; no cracks or dry-rotted.

4) Synchronized the carbs.....and

5) Adjusted both the idle screw, and the fuel mixture screws. Fuel mixture screws were turned 2.5 turns out; no change...3 turns out; no change....5 turns out; no change....then only 1 turn out; STILL no change.

The idle speed screw is another story. I tightened the screw to increase engine speed, and it did increase, but as soon as I blipped the throttle....IT STALLED AGAIN!. So whether I raise or lower engine speed, makes no difference. Otherwise, the bike idles fine...again..until the choke is taken off and then it stalls!!

Any ideas? What is my bike's problem!? Do I need a new/rebuilt set of carbs at only 13k miles? Anything else I need to check that I might have forgotten?

Thanks, ladies and gentlemen!

So I ran into this videoclip on Youtube which depicts a red Lamborghini Countach racing against a villain (I am guessing) driving a dark green Porsche 911. Which anime series is this? It says it's called 'Grand Prix' but I can't find any info in it. Does it go by any other names? Was it even played in the U.S.? Thanks!

The issue - At first, he bike takes forever to start, regardless of how much (or how little) choke I apply. The bike starts eventually, but the idle is all over the place. Giving any throttle blips only spike the rpms up high where they hang for 2 secs or more, and eventually go down.

The only way the bike will rev up and down freely and ride smoothly is if I completely loosen the idle speed adjusting screw. Obviously, the bike dies when I stop, because the idle speed with no adjustment is too low to maintain the bike on.

Valves were adjusted, carbs were cleaned and synced, and spark plugs were replaceds as well. Fuel mixture screws were set to the factory 2.5 to 3 turns. On that note, the problem remains whether the fuel mixture screws are 3 turns out, or as high as 7 turns out, and it makes no difference whatsoever, so I know that the problem is NOT the fuel mixture screws.

So what could be causing my bike's erratic idle and sticking RPMs? A friend of mine told me that it could be warped or broken carb diaphragms, or something as simple (however unlikely) as a stripped/stretched throttle cable.

Thanks!!

So, I went to this conference at a Miami hotel, when I saw a gorgeous silver Toyota Celica GT-Four parked in the hotel lot. As many of you know, this 6th generation car (1994-99) was never sold in the U.S.. Anyway, I waited on the owner and he showed me the interior, the engine bay, etc. so I was convinced that I was looking at the real thing, and not a regular Celica with a body kit. Anyway, he also showed me some papers that basically said the car was LEGAL to drive on U.S. soil!

Needless to say, this car was always one of my all-time favorite cars, and it sparked my interest. However, the man was in a hurry and I didn't get to ask him probing questions as to what hoops he had to jump to get the car here. By the way, this was a left-hand drive car, so it wasn't a JDM right-hand model, so I am guessing he must have gotten it from Germany, Italy, Spain or any other euro country that drives left-handed like we do.

So my question is...anyone out there knows how he might have been able to pull it off in bringing the car here? My understanding was that you could import a car if it's 25 years or older with no problem. Anything newer would be considered a 'non-conforming' vehicle and can't be imported (quoting DOT website). A friend of mine told me that maybe he brought the chassis with no engine...and then probably brought over the engine alone instead of getting the whole car here.

Anyone can shed a light on this? It must be possible to import it here, based on the number of, say, prior Nissan Skylines you see on the road here and there. Bottom line: I am getting a GT-Four over here...just need to know how you Skyline people got it done. Thanks!

OK, my Ninja 250R (twin carbs) had its valves adjusted, the spark plugs replaced, and the carbs cleaned out completely, so the bike idles smoothly and runs much better...EXCEPT for this problem I am having now.

There is a 'flat spot' on the engine between 1,300-1,600 rpms, where the engine just refuses to accelerate for about half a second. The only way the engine accelerates without flat spots is if I 'feather' the throttle until about 1,600 rpms, then I can normally accelerate. If I give it too much throttle from standstill, the bike just shuts down. If I give it just a tad of throttle, then it's fine. I checked the spark plugs to see if they were either fouled or if their gap was set wrong. Everything is fine on that end. I also adjusted the fuel mixture screws to run both a little 'lean' and a little too 'rich' to see if that helped any. No change at all. Throttle and choke cables are fine and well lubricated as well.

What are your thoughts, people? What is causing my low-rpm flat spot/hesitation? What should I look into? Thanks.

OK, here's my problem. My Kawasaki Ninja 250R is running horribly, and I use it often. As if, it was running great yesterday, and 2 days later, it has this weird problem. Let me explain.

First, when you cold start the bike, no matter how much choke you apply to it, as soon as it starts, it shuts down as soon as you pull on the throttle handle or the revs stay up high (about 3000 RPMs) and as soon as I take the choke off one bit, it immediately shuts down!!. It does that like 30 times (shuts down immediately upon feeding it throttle, or when taking the choke off) before it starts and stays on. Then, the bike settles to its 1200-1500RPM range which is normal.

Then, when I take it out for a spin, as soon as I press on the clutch to change gears, instead of the engine speed dropping, it does the opposite. The engine speed INCREASES when I press the clutch!! Every gear, at every engine speed.

OK, then when I am stopped, and the bike is at its normal 1500RPM idle speed, and I rev the engine, the revs go up and STAY UP for about 3 seconds before it SLOWLY settles down to the normal engine idle speed.

I have replaced the throttle cable, the choke cable is fine, and have cleaned up the fuel system, but the problem remains. I am not sure if the dealer skimped on carb maintenance or spark plugs, so I am not sure where to start. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone.

OK, here's my problem in a nutshell. First, my '04 Ninja 250 takes an obscene amount of time to start from cold. When it finally starts, the revs go up to 3,000RPMs and slooowwllly go back to the normal idle speed, even with no choke applied to it!

The, while riding, the revs stay up for a long time and then slowly return to normal WHILE SHIFTING. For example, shifting from 1st gear to 2nd at, say, 4000RPMs, as soon as I press the clutch, the revs stay at 4000RPMs for a few secs, then the engine speed slowly decreases. It does that in every gear, at every RPM range (shifting from 3rd to 4th at 6000RPMs, the engine stays stuck up there and, again, slowly comes back down). It also does this when I am stopped and in neutral, when I blip the throttle up to any RPM range, it stays up there for like 3 seconds and then it settles to normal idle speed. I already had the carbs and fuel system professionally cleaned, but problem remains. What could be my problem? Thanks!!

Hi. I used to work as a PC technician, when the company I was with laid me off. It has been 4 months, and I have not been able to find a local job, so I was thinking of going back to driving trucks, since the job market seems to be crappy at best.

SO, I was considering Werner (first choice, but after reading all negative comments about them, probably not), Stevens, USXpress, and KLLM, or going back to Comcar, which was good to me. I'd like to hear from former or current drivers on their opinion about good, reputable companies to work for. I am looking to drive solo, preferrably regionally or dedicated (OTR last resort).

And please, no 'don't get into trucking' comments. Trust me, this is a last resort thing because I have still been unable to find a job, so far. Thanks everyone!

Just like the title says. I just installed the SPT Intake Kit on my 07 WRX, but every so often, the air filter keeps slipping off and I have to put it back on.

I have tried tightening the hose clamp even tighter, cleaning both the filter and the intake hose where it connects, to see if it'll hold. It does hold...for a few days, and then the filter again slips off. It seems that the intake assembly itself is a little too 'slippery to hold the air filter, even with the hose clamp.

So, anyone with the SPT Intake Kit out there can tell me the secret of having their air filters staying put!!? Thanks!!!

Here's my dilema. My local Toyota/Scion dealer has these 2 cars for the same price (about $20K) and I am trying to decide which one would be the best deal.

Here's the thing, though. I know that the WRX will be a better performer of the two, but I also know that maintenance costs are gonna kill me down the road. That being said, If I live in FL, where the only 'inclement weather' we face are the random downpours, would I really need All-Wheel-Drive?

My Celica GT-S, being FWD, like the tC, was able to handle the rain just fine. So my question is, if you lived in a snow-free/warm place like FL, would you still get the WRX, or would you go for the easier-on-the-budget tC? Thanks!