Derrick Zooolander

I was pointed toward using a reversing contactor instead of a DPDT Power relay or using definite purpose relays and several timers.

my ideal setup is have '1' timer controlling the reversing contactor so it works exactly like a DPDT relay, but absolutely reliable,, unlike the DPDT power relays that can not handle any substantial load cross over.

I purchased one on ebay, but.. I am having trouble seeing how this can work

'exactly' the same as a DPDT relay..( controlled by one 120v timer )..

Sure, if I use 2 timers it will ( the the built in interlock will keep them from both being on )..or if one of the contactor was 'NC' and one was 'NO' so the timer would switch between their normal positions.. but both are NC!.. so if the contactor is not getting power from the 120v timer neither contactors are energized.

...maybe I'm missing something in just how the top mounted control blocks should be wired??

link to device photos:

btw, I have removed all the overload wires from both sides of my contactor(s)

I have not been able to find any 'visual' or schematic examples of wiring a reversing contactor ( for using as a DPDT relay)>. other than that for a motor with overload circuits/heater and push button control.

any help would be appreciated! thanks

link to photo:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cutler-Hammer-CE55GN3AB-Re...

is it typical to need to reinstall the OS when a Logic board is replaced? ( I DON'T have any disks ) but will borrow some from a friend later, just wondering it is always necessary to re-intal or fix.. OSX

long version:

I purchased this Mac broken .. then purchased the Logic board to put it. it, ( for my young Niece).. It posts and the Apple logo appears.. then turns off.

I went into single user mode did the disk checks and got this error message:

** Volume check failed.

/dev rdisk0s2 (hfs) EXITED WITH SIGNAL 8

where in the east bay, ( preferably Oakland or Hayward area), can I have my brake shoes relined? this is an old car they DO NOT stock in O'Riely/Kragen or other parts stores..

Thanks

need to get the most cash back as possible.. if donw from a store you are not charged 5% off the bat.( told to me by my discover card rep ).. if you get cash advance from an ATM you are charged 5% right off the bat.( discover card )

so.. what store gives you the most cash back on my 'available' balance?

thanks

I know for a fact~! Best Buy rips people off when it comes to repair or replacement when you purchase their overpriced extended warranty... so if at all possible I don't want to get one with them.

rotate the camshafts to TDC without damaging the valves? ( it's a non friction engine correct? )

how will I know that they are on the correct compression stroke?

I need 2 specialty tools I can find online but with shipping it will take too long to get here.. want to do the work today.

OK. don;t say: Kragen-Rileys, toyota parts , auto zone.. or other general auto stores.. they don't carry them..

where i can buy rent or borrow it?? I'm in the SF bay area

tool: Schley Products SP 64400 Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool

http://www.tooltopia.com/schley-64400.aspx?utm_sou...

97 4runner

could it more likely be something else,, andcould that code be e generated by trying to start the truck a few times afterwards?

if the fuel system were suspect would not OBD code not have been generated for a problem? ie: fuel pump relay or Pump, or fuel injector?

97 Toyota 4Runner,

I got 0340 ( camshaft position sensor "A" circuit ) from the OBD tester.

The belts are all tight. ( and all there). and I have spark to the plugs,(pulled one and tested)

(OK ONLY ONE STEP BY STEP)..I have a 97 4runner.. at 70 on freeway engine just turned off.. lucky to get off the freeway..

checked all fuses.. have gas.. timing belt did not break and fall off..

turns over just no firing what so ever.

( fuel pump/filter? )

I'm pretty good with a voltage tester..

what can I check myself before I send it to the $$$$ shop??

thanks

seeing asa ll the #'s I searched the web on, that could be the model # come up with Nada! ( nothing ) yes, I got then from the red robertshaw part tag on side of valve.

((part #..I think: RobertShaw 75-138-007 ( for Propane )

I have seen other LP gas valves online that look the same but with different part #'s

Its cold here and we need hot water asap!

if you don't know ..don't attempt to answer... thanks.

Health care,pharmaceuticals, insurance, military suppliers, networks and cable tv corps/ telecoms, Oil companies, Airlines.

I have the RANCO ETC-111000-000,.. wired it per the wiring diagram, but the LCD does not light up. or turn on per instructions to program unit.

I have wired a lot of devices per a wiring diagram, and can read a schematic well,. other than this being a bad unit,(maybe returned faulty), I'm not sure if I am doing something wrong? is there any trick to get the LCD to Power up? or ?

I am Planning to use the unit to turn off HPS lights if the A/C fails. by triggering the relay to turn off the lighting circuits, all circuits are 120V, The relay has only a 3 amp magnetic coil switch..so I'm not overloading the ETC. never the less the ETC should power up when wired and power turned on to unit...

any help would be appreciated... Cheers

here's the situation....We just moved into a property and had/have a completely undersized service / service conductors, on PG&E's side.. ( # 6 AL ). We had a new 'permitted' 200 amp service installed , passed city inspection, then called for a new service drop. and to re-install the 'collar locked' new smart meter,

( which which we all know are ripping California's off! )..but that's another question.. for another time.

We were given the Phone # of, and called, the local field technician who said ,over the phone, we needed to pay 1000.00 up front before he would even look at the work to be done, if any was required. but the charge may go as high as 3000.00!..( for bringing' Their wire' their 'property' and ' their responsibility'.. to our house to be able to charge us more money for increased usage. )..sorry.. tangent..

We called PG&E to see if this was indeed their policy their policy and we were told, he was suppose to come and look.. then send us a written estimate .. which he has not done. Then he called after we, checked up on this and said we do not need new conductors run, but we just moved in and found that the service 'was' a 60 amp from the 40's and the service wires were an old #6 AL which should at most only furnish 'safely furnish 85 amps.. if that if the wire is old and antiquated.

We chose a 200 amp panel to cover our current and future power requirement. hot tub / woodshop / etc.ect.

it does not seem on the up and up that we be held responsible to pay for a much needed upgrade to PG&E's old service feeders.

it also seems this tech guy, 'Rudy' is playing some hard ball game in order to get the money.. or make a sale.. so to speak. (( maybe he's a shady sub-contractor?? )

It would be great to find some info on what is mandated by the state, on what is PG&E"s responisbility financially. are to furnish adequate power to a residence.

Thanks in advance

OK .here's the scenario..we did our new service entrance / passed inspection / then were told by the PG&E technician, ( who may or may not be a subcontractor..making money per job???)

that will do the work that it was going to cost $1000.00 up front..before he even looks at the job.. and if he needed to run a larger conductor it would cost upwards of 2000+!!

we called PG&E to confirm we had to pay 1000.00 up front and the PG&E service phone rep told us that there was something wrong with his asking for money before he even looked at the job.... so then he came out and said our old #6 ( 1930's ) Aluminum wire was fine. and there would be not charge..

So the question is.. is he just trying to oet out of the new service drop because we make a stink? or he does not want PG& E looking closely at his project management /billing practices...or is #6 Aluminum fine to bring the ENTIRE 200 amp to our house..

we just moved in and are installing a 220 welder, (90 amps!! ) a hot tub (50 amps ) a green house for an organic herb garden, with 6 100 w 220 ballasts, we will also have 2 air conditioners, and we have a 220 v dryer/ large sub zero fridge and 4 gaming computers all with 800 watt p/s.. + 2 large LCD tv's.. and large pumping stereo..

by our calculations we need more that an antiquated 60 amp brittle aluminum main feed from PG&E.

according to wehat i have researched online... # 6 is rated up to 85 amps, and we would need 1/0 to get us to 180 amps..

professional answers only thanks...

thanks in advance!

can't afford to do/fill cement form tubes. the ground gets really mushy in winter and we need some way to keep the containers from sinking.. ( 5 ' height diff.. from upper end of cantainer to bottom. )

any bright ideas?? cheap bright ideas??

or is it called something else on a Mac?