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Car is '93 Corolla on 4AFE engine, auto transmission, 60K miles. after driving steadily at high rpm like around 4k or so, when i slow down the engine stalls. my alternator is weak, Tps has once been opened and put back on but without using any multimeter. overall, driving is not really all that comfortable. Any suggestions guys? by the way, i'm from near India.

mine's has toyota's 5afe efi 1.5L engine with distributor. without A/C, it idles, drives perfectly with no surge at all- cold or hot. problem starts as soon as i turn the A/C on. surging starts and it get's worse while at a red light with brake pedal on.

just 4 days ago, i had the ac system worked on, throttle body cleaned with IAC. old ac compressor is weak, so the mechanic installed another one with 'overdrive' pulley (smaller ac compressor pulley than original one) and also changed the belt. before, idle used to go up 50rpm while A/C was on, now it dips down 200rpm and then starts surging. is the VSV for egr bad?

any tips guys?

just a generic question- when the throttle plate stop screw (the butterfly of a TB) is adjusted for fixing car idle, does it alter the TPS reading as well? my toyota 5a-fe engine runs on CNG fuel mostly. cng tuning calls for not 14.7:1 ratio but higher as cng increases compression. mechanics here do adjust that screw to slightly raise the idle. so, does that affect TPS too? should i calibrate TPS accordingly?

it's a japan domestic market version 2001 toyota with 5a-fe engine, auto transmission. when i'm at a stop, gear shifter is at 'D' and brake pedal is pressed, the tach needle goes up and down a little- like 50 rpm and i can feel the surge/vibration on the steering wheel after every 2-3 seconds like a rhythm.

is it happening because of throttle body? i bought the car a year ago and haven't serviced the TB, distributor yet. acceleration is ok but can it be improved with a TB cleanup? the plugs are good.

any tips guys?

My 4-speed Toyota A240L has throttle valve cable that goes from TB to transmission unit. It is a non-ETC, hydraulically controlled gearbox. During my last ATF drain-n-fill 8 months ago (didn't drop the pan just opened drain nut), i poured 5L Dexron III where manual says 3.7L. Later on, I drained out about 1L through the drain nut. Throttle valve cable is currently set to 2-3mm loose than factory spec.

Car upshifts quicker than normal even with OD OFF, not much low-end torque and upshift points have slight shudder/jerk.

Question is- how important is it to keep this particular gearbox of mine dead accurate on ATF capacity? ATF color and smell is fine. Are all these happening because of not keeping the amount to exactly 3.7L and keeping the cable 2-3mm loose?

My car is a japan domestic model 2001 Toyota Carina, left-hand drive. Engine is 5A-FE and has A240L hydraulically controlled auto trans. Could you please tell me exactly how can i tighten the TV cable that goes from trans. to throttle body? I know there are 2 locking nuts. On the left of the nuts there are 4 turns and on the right there are 5 turns on the bolt thingy. Should I move the locking nuts more towards right or left to make the cable a little tighter?

There is no slack in the cable, ATF is fine but i feel not enough torque or throttle response.

Thanks a lot

my colleagues 2003 lancer is on 4G13 1.3L engine. from start, the check engine light stays on and the car drives heavy. sometimes it just goes away and then it drives just fine. what are the possible reasons i should ask him to check/test?

my colleague drives the car which has Toyota 5AFE 1.5L engine, 4 speed auto transmission (hydraulically controlled). Oil change done 10 days ago- switched from 5W40 fully synth to 10W40 semi-synth. ATF is fine. Throttle cable is up to the spec. Idle is rock steady. No blue/white smoke, no CEL.

I was asked to drive it to double check on it's acceleration issue. Kickdown response is not so good. Normal, smooth acceleration is fine but sudden acceleration is poor. It is sometimes needed here in Indian subcontinent.

Throttle body, MAP sensor etc. not been serviced in last 12 months. Fuel pump condition is checked and it's good along with the small net filter in the tank. No idea about fuel filter which is under the hood.

Please suggest what to do.

3 months ago my colleague did oil change and he got the engine exactly 3.2L as mentioned in the manual. lately, he's noticing that the reading is a little over the F mark on the dipstick. He didn't top off a single drop since the last oil change. there is no foaming or bubbles on the dipstick. color is slightly brown- still there's honey tint.

is it normal for oil to get 'increased'? or is it a sign that tells him to replace the oil?

The car is 1999 Corolla. Everything's fine- only the trip meter resets itself everytime i start the car. The battery is 3 years old, i cleaned the terminals and tighten the posts. I haven't yet done load test or charging test on the battery. The car always starts at one go- no starting problem whatsoever. Radio, clock, odo, speedometer, everything else which is electrical is fine. All the fuses are OK too. Only the trip meter is resetting to 0 when i start the car.

Any idea why is this happening?

after replacing the dim lightbulbs of my 1995 toyota corolla instrument cluster, i notice that the fuel gauge needle is not showing accurate reading. when the mechanic finished the re-assembling process, the rpm needle was stuck high but he fixed it- there was a ground connection problem and the tachometer is fine.

but afterwards- the fuel gauge needle is slow to respond after filling the gas tank. and also it's not showing accurate reading- needle is dropping too fast even though there is enough gas in the tank.

any idea/suggestion guys?

i'm from Dhaka, Bangladesh- a country near India. My daily drive includes going over unsmooth, urban gravel roads with small potholes. my car is in a '95 Corolla, struts n coils n dampers are all Ok in computerized test. On smooth road- driving is OK.

problem is only when i drive on rough gravel roads in the city. sitting behind the wheel and placing my hand on the steering i can literally feel the rattle, clunks along the steering column. lately, my front wheels are slightly misaligned. I changed power steering pump last month still steering wheel is not all that much free to turn as it should be.

what exactly are the parts/areas i should be thoroughly inspect before spending money? will a complete steering box assembly (ball joints, tie rods, rod ends, steering gear- the whole long thing) replacement help? what other bushings should i ask the mechanic to check?

I own and drive this car for the last 2 years and apart from struts-coils-dampers, i haven't changed anything in the entire steering system or other suspension parts or wheel bearings.

please suggest and help me spending money cluelessly. i want to spend the weekends on this and start a fresh Monday :)

thanks guys

Is it possible that a dirty IAC valve can cause high idle rpm?

The car is '95 Corolla on 5AFE 1.5L which runs mostly on CNG. i have recently replaced the throttle body and installed a reconditioned japanese TB. Before installing, TB was cleaned except IAC valve. It wasn't removed for cleaning.

It's been a few days, my idle isn't erratic. it's just steady high- 1150 on P and 750 on D. I know there is a screw/nut thing near the IAC vale to manually adjust idle but it has been set to the lowest point or something similar. Yet, idle does not come down near or below 1000 at P or N.

My engine condition is good and not so long ago the engine could bear 800 on N and 650 on D. What can i possibly do now to get that idle back and go really fuel economic?

my car's engine is toyota 5AFE 1.5L distributor, and runs on CNG.

I have recently replaced all 4 spark plug tube seals. I hope that's what they are called- when you pull the plug out and see rubber seals sitting on top. I notice that number 2 seal has been installed upside down. there is very slight sign of engine oil in there- barely noticeable. Can this cause misfire at cold start?

afterwards, I have also replaced my faulty throttle body (IAC was fulty). I now have a recondition TB installed. I believe there is a screw/nut near the IAC valve to manipulate idle rpm. It's at the lowest setting but still car idles at 1100 on N and 750 on D. How can i lower the idle to 900 on N and 650 on D? Will manually retarding the distributor help?

Thanks guys

on average, my toyota 5afe 1.5L engine runs about 50km on CNG and 3-4KM on petrol per day. now, toyota asked denso K16r U11 plug (or NGK equivalent one). this plug has 1.1mm gap and a heat range of 5 i believe. that's good for Petrol.

in my country, people mostly run on CNG. So this has been the common practice. my question is - when the fuel is CNG instead of Petrol, shouldn't I also change the plugs gap and heat range to compensate/adjust for optimal ignition? i have timing advance processor (TAP) installed and distributor also manually advanced. I came to know that when you use CNG, your plug gap should be reduced to .1mm.

requesting suggestion/advice from experts in this department- should i get a plug with 1.0mm gap or maybe .9mm? what about the heat range? should i go a range hotter or colder?

thanks

My engine is toyota 5afe and the auto transmission is A240L. As soon as gear engages to D or R, engine stability is fine at 650 idle rpm but engine bay/front area of the car shakes. While it was shaking, a mechanic jacked up the front left side- the car was on D and brakes being pressed. As soon as it was up- no shake no nothing. Idle was still 650 but no vibration/shake whatsoever.

The mechanic said- gearbox mounting has to be replaced. Is he correct?

I checked the price of a new japanese one which is out of my budget right now. I also have to replace the power steering pump. I am planning on gathering up bucks for the next 3 months and replace them both at the same time.

Now, can i TEMPORARILY just replace the rubber bushing thingy which is in the center/main area of a gearbox mounting? Should it be OK for at least 3 months?

my car's engine is Toyota 5AFE, distributor ignition, runs on CNG. I noticed that my TPS has 4 terminals and the connector jack also has 4 holes. But, at the back of the connector, 3rd terminal from the top (which is IDL as i found googling) is disconnected and the hole is closed.

Now, I have a Timing Advance Processor (TAP) installed for CNG setup. The TAP is AEB 515N. I googles the wiring diagram of it and found that one connection should be made with IDL terminal of TPS- which is, as i found last night in my TPS not connected! It could be like the TAP mechanic took off the IDL terminal off of the connector and wired with TAP.

My concern is- is it OK/safe to drive the car like this? How ECU will know when the car is at idle position? By the way, i also notice that the oxygen sensor under the exhaust manifold is also disconnected.

Yesterday i took my '95 Corolla AE110 to my regular mechanic for TB cleaning and air filter change. I had too low idle problem (750 on P and 550 on D). After good cleaning, idle now is 1200 on P and 750 on D without AC. With AC, idle is pretty much the same.

My engine is Toyota 5AFE 1.5L which runs on natural gas (CNG) mostly. it has distributor already advanced and a timing advance processor installed for CNG. I have heard that the ECU of this engine controls the idle and it has a 'learning' curve.

Should I wait couple more days to see if idle comes down to below 1000? Or should i get a full tune up done today? On the same note- what controls the idle difference between N and D..say 1200 on N and 750 on D. This rpm difference is controlled by what? Is it possible to minimize the difference?

I have already replaced the cable twice. last time i lubed the cable well. however, i am not 100% sure that i got the exact factory recommended OEM cable. But the speedometer needle shakes (not jumps all over) from 0 to around 30mph. Above that speed, the needle is steady- smooth up and down as i accelerate or slow down.

what could possibly be the reason? should i replace it again?

my car is 1995 Toyota Corolla AE110 XE Saloon. It originally does not come with RPM meter. I have replaced the instrument cluster and placed one with RPM meter. Tach needle is fine, speedometer needle shakes. I have changed the cable 2 times. Last time, my mechanic said if there is further problem he will make cable-less electronic-pulse system by doing some wiring thing. Is it really possible?