Yahoo Answers is shutting down on May 4th, 2021 (Eastern Time) and beginning April 20th, 2021 (Eastern Time) the Yahoo Answers website will be in read-only mode. There will be no changes to other Yahoo properties or services, or your Yahoo account. You can find more information about the Yahoo Answers shutdown and how to download your data on this help page.
Trending News
1/2' copper piping plumbing problem.?
I have a pipe that was damaged inside in the middle of a plastered wall. I cut the damaged section off and cut a new section to fit. When I use my blowtorch to solder it all together the pipes expand and seal, however when it cools the whole section contracts and my joints crack open at the joints because the pipe above and below are held in by the plaster. I wouldn’t like to chop out any more plaster then necessary. Is there a special technique to overcome this problem? I wouldn’t like to have a screw joint inside my plasterwork either.
Any advice and tips would be appreciated.
Thank you all for your advice. My problem is not that my soldering is bad but that when I heat the pipe it expands and the weld sets. However the pipe is firmly held in the Brick plastered wall and as the pipe cools it contracts and the the weld cracks.
The only solution appears to be using a coupler and plastering around it when I am done. I should have added that it is a brick and plaster house in my initial question. Thanks for the answers.
Thank you all for your advice. My problem is not that my soldering is bad but that when I heat the pipe it expands and the weld sets. However the pipe is firmly held in the Brick plastered wall and as the pipe cools it contracts and the the weld cracks.
The only solution appears to be using a coupler and plastering around it when I am done. I should have added that it is a brick and plaster house in my initial question. Thanks for the answers.
6 Answers
- 1 decade agoFavorite Answer
I can only suggest that you use a connector with an "olive" and a nut at each end which you fit over the two pipe sections and tighten with a spanner. There is no heat needed and you only need to bury the whole contraption under plaster and I suppose then tiles. I plumbed my whole house with this method. Good Luck
Source(s): Norman D - Anonymous1 decade ago
The reason it swells up is because of water turning into steam. This pressure is tremendous. You need to open a valve or faucet near where you are soldering. Try to make you solder joint outside the wall if possible.
If it is not possible do as little soldering in the wall as you can. We solder all the fittings first then put the piece in the wall and just solder the connections.
If you have no other choice then I suggest using compression fittings to fix the water pipe problem. If the application allows you can install an access door where you are working that will allow you to re-access the areas in the future if needed.
Source(s): 30 year serviceman - Anonymous5 years ago
Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.
- Anonymous1 decade ago
You have to make sure the pipe is VERY clean, and the insides of the fittings too, before you assemble the pipe. Use a little bit of soldering flux on the connectors before you slide them on the pipe. The slightest bit of grease (or fingerprints) on the pipes will prevent the solder from adhering (this is a chemical reaction), and this might be the source of your problem. Either use steel wool or special wire brushes made for the purpose.
- How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer.
- 1 decade ago
are u sanding the pipe before u try to solder it......u have to sand the outside of the pipe for the solder to hang on it just like sanding a car before u paint it.....also u have to use a flux to help the solder run around ur fitting......sand then flux then solder....make sure all the water is OUT of the line......if u can get a shop vac and suck it out....or try opening a faucet somewhere near that area to drain the pipe down......also u will need to clean the inside of the fitting....thats called a cleaning brush and u can get it at any lowes or home depot...just get the one for ur size pipe....1/2".....after sanding the pipe cleaning the fitting and fluxing the pipe and fitting the solder joint should take with no problem as long as they is no water where u r trying to solder at....good luck
Source(s): plumber for 14+ yrs - Anonymous1 decade ago
you need to re seal your pipe, one possible reason is you ,didn't heat your pipe up en ought,or second reason , is you didn't use , en ought flux, , re cut it , re join it , make sure it sucks the flux,inside, then re solider the outside around the pipe. , one more thing ,make sure you have a clamp to hold the pipe to the wall, as it mite just be moving on you ,
Source(s): remodler 29 years